Suspension



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Hall of Wisdom

by johnramwell Published on 01-08-17 10:54 AM
Is there a good reason for the strange shape of the heads, conical fluted, on these bolts?
What kind of spanner/socket is needed to work them?
I would like to use the front 2 as mounting points for Denali DM Micro running lights.

John
by Richard230 Published on 09-20-16 09:33 AM
These two handouts regarding front wheel alignment and suspension terms, prepared by Aftershocks (a SF Bay Area suspension expert), are interesting and informative.
by Brickhead Published on 03-15-14 01:50 PM
To prevent damage to the fork seals, it's generally considered a good idea to keep bugs and flying stones off the inner stanchions at speed, or at least off the area over which the seals travel the most. The classic and most effective solution would be a pair of fork gaiters, either home-made or manufactured to fit the fork.

The other common solution is to fit plastic tabs in front of the stanchions next to the seals, commonly called fork protectors or -deflectors.

I first installed a...
by de100kb Published on 02-25-14 03:44 PM
A quote from another thread which should be in the HoW



The original thread:

http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/118130-F700-with-Low-Seat-and-Low-and-Suspension-(-)
by Mokkybear Published on 01-28-14 04:57 AM
I recently fitted some Ricor Intiminators to the ST. I’ve not been unhappy with the front end but others on the forum who have them fitted swear by them so I thought I’d give them a go seeing as they have recently come down in price (A$234 delivered). http://store.ricorshocks.com/

They slot in under the spring and you replace the 10W oil with 5W so that the effect of the stock damping valves is greatly diminished and the new valves dominate. The insert is claimed to have an inerti...
by bric-a-brac Published on 07-20-13 04:35 PM
Having just rebuilt my forks because the seals were leaking (third time in 24k) and using a thin strip of shaped plastic (like Sealmate) was no longer effective, I decided to make some dust shields. I could have gone for gaiters during the reassembly but didn't like the 'strong' look; instead I made some out of 1mm thick clear HIPS (high impact polystyrene). I tried various designs and fixing methods and settled on a single 4mm clamp screw/nut as this is neat, doesn't foul the brake lines and....
by Mokkybear Published on 06-06-13 04:59 AM
The only tricky part to changing the fork oil on the S/ST is getting the circlips out. The Haynes manual instruction says something like "depress the cap and remove the circlip" - yeah, right.

I found the easiest way is to use a flat bladed screwdriver to both lever the cap down and at the same time stop the circlip from turning. Then use a sharpened tool to get under the circlip.

Once you have the circlip out, grind a taper from the outside to make it easier to get a tool unde...
by Pete99 Published on 06-03-13 05:32 AM
BMW DVD-ROM: "If the coil spring in inserted the wrong way round, it will damage the sliding surface in the fixed tube when the fork is compressed.
Install the spring with the taper-wound end down."

The attached photos try to show what is meant by taper wound spring ends.
The first few coils of a spring are wound with a diametrally increasing taper as can be seen by the jaws of the caliper. The other end of the spring might or not be taper wound as required. In this case the othe...
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