Rear wheel bearings failure - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    REAR AXIL BEARINGS ARE FAILING.I have seen some threads on the f800s/st side but very little information on the gs side.
    I have read a lot about the rear bearing issue on the ADVrider site and I'm concerned the information is not getting out. VERY VERY important to check those rear bearings. I change my own tires so I was doing it anyway. If someone else is changing your tires please have them CHECK the bearings for any sign af failure. Lost hubs maybe even lost lives are at stake here.
    btw, at 5100 miles my rear bearing on the rotor side his rough. Taking the bike to the dealer, Woodys wheel shop in Denver recommended on the ADVrider site to get the dealers involved. maybe a design problem with the rear axil.
    If anyone else has seen problems let us know. I post what happens at the dealer.ride safe <>< Craigster

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  3. #2
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    I never expected that a non swing arm bike will ever have a bearing failure.

    I know for sure that it happens very rarely….but…..back at 80s

    I believe that it smells like China!!!! (No offense to any Chinese)

    At least for my F800ST, I believe that it is more than 55% Chinese and I have no longer any doubt about it. Although I cannot prove it!!!!

    Those thinks are ridiculous.

    F800ST (07) / R1200GS (09)
     

  4. #3
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    There have been several rear wheel bearing failures.

    In the "search" facility type "Rear Wheel Bearing Kerfuffle" and read on.

    One UK rider had his lock-up on him which, to an inexperienced rider, could have resulted in a nasty accident.
    LINGERING LIKE A BAD SMELL WHILST SAT ON MY XL700VA - TRANS ALP  

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChiTown View Post
    If the GS didn't ride so darn good it would have been gone long ago for a KTM...

    Might want to spend some time on the KTM forums before you go that route. If you think your BMW has issues, you will find some real horror stories with KTM's. I know. I've owned one.

    About the bearings - it may be cheap parts in combination with lack of maintenance. I will definitely be looking for replacement bearings before I need them. I have 7,000 miles on my F658 and the bearings checked out fine upon inspection. I lubed them up good with Bel-ray waterproof grease, however, some things aren't worth risking. The bearings and chain are getting replaced soon.

    BTW, does anyone know what size bearings these are and where to shop for high quality replacements?

  6. #5
    Jim21680's Avatar
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    I also thought that this was only an S/ST problem. BMW has been building single-sided swingarms for way too long to have these kind of issues. I'm checking my ST almost weekly, and I swear, if I find something this serious is wrong with my bike, I'm telling BMW financial to come pick it up.

    However, I still think this is a very small percentage of bikes that are having this problem...but it's still inexcusable. This is way beyond "minor bugs" that can be expected with a new model.

  7. #6
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    I had the rear wheel assembly in the back of the truck ready to remove the bearings. I called the dealer before begining the disassembly. He said to bring the bike up and they would look into it. He also stated that if I replaced the bearings myself that it would be hard to cover any future issues under warrenty.There is also concern on the safety so I hauled the bike up in the back of the truck. First let me say the dealer has been super on all the issues concerning the bike. I feel bad when I call because it is in a negitive context most of the time. (maybe the maytag repairman might want in on some of the action).
    Having said all that let me say that when this bike is in the grove it has to be one of the best bikes in the world!! I have put some 5000 + miles and like the bike better all the time. Bmw, please take on the issues and resolve them for past and future owners.
    fyi... the # for the National Highway traffic Safety Administration is on page 134 of your owners manual. (if the problem isn't resolved by BMW) Bsafe <>< Craigster
    ps keep you posted on the bike repairs.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigster View Post
    I had the rear wheel assembly in the back of the truck ready to remove the bearings. I called the dealer before begining the disassembly. He said to bring the bike up and they would look into it. He also stated that if I replaced the bearings myself that it would be hard to cover any future issues under warrenty.There is also concern on the safety so I hauled the bike up in the back of the truck. First let me say the dealer has been super on all the issues concerning the bike. I feel bad when I call because it is in a negitive context most of the time. (maybe the maytag repairman might want in on some of the action).
    Having said all that let me say that when this bike is in the grove it has to be one of the best bikes in the world!! I have put some 5000 + miles and like the bike better all the time. Bmw, please take on the issues and resolve them for past and future owners.
    fyi... the # for the National Highway traffic Safety Administration is on page 134 of your owners manual. (if the problem isn't resolved by BMW) Bsafe <>< Craigster
    ps keep you posted on the bike repairs.
    So what type/brand of bearing are you having them replace with? Surely not the BMW "stock" bearing?
    2009 F650GS 

  9. #8
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    The Dealer stated that he had the stock bearing available and would use that for replacement of the defective bearing. The bike is under warranty so I guess that will be OEM replacement. If I want I might be able to supply a alternative manufactures bearing if it met BMW specs but BNW wouldn't cover the cost. I suspect something else it going on for theses bearings to be failing so soon and no bearing will hold up until they figure it out. Hope they figure it out before the warranty goes out.
    Again the dealer was very responsive to my concerns. Be sure to pass the word on checking the bearings and ride safe <>< Craigster

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    Quote Originally Posted by craigster View Post
    I suspect something else it going on for theses bearings to be failing so soon and no bearing will hold up until they figure it out. Hope they figure it out before the warranty goes out.


    I tell you what is the problem....

    Chinese surplus products with very poor QA and QC.

    I truly believe that only the design and part of final assembly is made in Germany. The rest is China.

    F800ST (07) / R1200GS (09)
     

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    1997 F650 Funduros had a similar problem with the steering bearings. Mine became seriously notched around 8000 miles and I was able to get BMW to warrant the replacement of the $5 Bulgarian bearing, with another stock Bulgarian bearing. I had no further problems with the bike over the following 30,000 miles. The problem was that the Aprilia factory (or maybe it was the Bulgarians that greased the bearing) that installed the bearings used the wrong type of grease. The bearing was subject to heat from the oil that was stored in the frame. The grease got hot and just ran down the headstock. When the new bearing was installed, the dealer used a quality high-temperature wheel bearing grease and that solved that problem. Apparently, BMW got the message as the following year's bikes had no further problem with steering bearings - but the 1999 bikes did have stalling problems due the mis-routing of the charcoal canister vacuum hose at the factory.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2014 14.2 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    I dropped off my bike last Tuesday and got the call it was ready today. Drove up and picked up the bike. He said the he replaced all three bearings and both seals and would turn it in under warranty. Kudos to the dealer for great service !!!
    Now for the interesting theory of what might be causing the premature bearing failure.When I took up the bike I just threw the wheel on and tighten up the chain without torquing the axil bolt or setting the chain tension. When he called he asked if that is how tight I have been keeping the chain tension. I said I didn't even set it. just moved the bike 100 feet to load on my truck. When I got there the chain looked to have more play then the owners manual specs state. I'm pretty good about keeping things right and have maintained the 1.4 to 1.8 " chain sag as per the manual including the bike on level ground, unloaded on side stand when setting chain sag. The dealer stated that it should have a small amount of play even when loaded and bottomed out where the swing arm would be at the maximin distance. That would explain the heavy force on the bearing if the chain is ever in a situation where it would not only transfer power from the driver to the driving (engine/transmission to rear sprocket/tire) but also become part of the suspension. If that was the case the maximum force would go the the rotor side bearing on the rear and the inner bearing of the final drive gear shaft from the transmission. Catch that part about transmission. I'll throw that out for debate
    . Thanks <>< Craigster

  13. #12
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    I have purchased some 38 new motorcycles during my 48 year riding career. Almost every one had a chain that was over-tightened when I picked the bike up from the dealer. Apparently, the people who set up bikes believe that the chain will stretch a lot when new and that the owner will never adjust the chain and they believe that setting the chain too tight will correct those issues. Wrong! All it does is put a lot of load on the components. After picking up a bike, when I get home I almost always need to readjust the chain slack to spec. Even the electric motorcycle that I just bought had a very tight chain that could not even be deflected when I would push hard on the chain run. What made it worse is that the counter-shaft sprocket is located nowhere near the swing-arm pivot. I had to loosen the chain adjusters 1/3 inch in order to get the chain slack properly adjusted. Always check the chain tension when you buy a new bike. A too tight chain can certainly result in severe bearing and chain loads and potential excessive wear and failure of drive train components if not corrected soon.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2014 14.2 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

  14. Thanks Superduper thanked for this post.
  15. #13
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    I have a really bad sense of humor and couldn't stop laughing when I read your current bikes( 2009 ELECTRIC MOTORSPORT GPR-S) POWER DIVIDED BY VOLTAGE = CURRENT. sorry, i couldn't resist(TER). <>< Craigster
    ps. my wife never laughes at my jokes either!!!

  16. Thanks Richard230, Duvskog thanked for this post.
  17. #14
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    How is this for a chain? Anyone sell size 420 chain in a 140-link long package? Also check out the distance between the swing arm pivot and the counter shaft sprocket. Fortunately, the rear shocks don't have much travel. The specified chain slack is 15-20 mm:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Richard - Current bikes: 2014 14.2 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

  18. #15
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    I went for a 180 mile trip last weekend, wanted to test the new rear Mitas E09 tire and dealer replaced bearings. The Mitas worked well on mud,sand, twistys and rocks,will wait for a wet road and hopefully live to tell how that works out . When I took my seat to the custom shop for an upgrade I decided to go in and check the new bearings. The two outer bearings are Taiwan mfg. and the inner bearing ??. I did pop off all three bearing seals and saw a little grease in there. I did not add any grease to bearings (big no no unless old grease is removed).btw, I did not see any grease in the original bearings. Just buttoned it up and cleaned and greased seal area.
    <>< Craigster

  19. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigster View Post
    I did not add any grease to bearings (big no no unless old grease is removed).btw, <>< Craigster
    Craigster, could you let us know why this is a no no. I have always just repacked with fresh grease without thorough cleaning, unless the bearing was gritty that is.


    Thanks

  20. #17
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    When i got my bike the chain free play was out of specs, when i asked the dealer, they said that it is ok and that the chain will stretch soon.
    To my knowledge this was wrong and could lead to wheel/gearbox bearing and frame failure so i have readjusted the chain and also made sure that there is a small play when the wheel axle-swing arm pivot point and front sprocket are on the same plane.
    A friend of mine had the chain free play wrong on his Honda AX-1 and the result was to end up with a broken frame.
    So new bike owners, do check your chain before even riding the bike, after all if you end up with a chain being a bit on the loose side, you dealer will adjust it 600 miles later

  21. #18
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    Kelsow. The way I understand it the problem is when you mix grease. Different types and manufactures use different additives in there grease, some of the additives can actually break down the lubrication qualities of different grease types. I would be open for comment. <>< Craigster

  22. #19
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    I have the rear wheel bearing on my F650GS fail in Fez, northern Morocco. It was replaced by a local moped shop with a generic bearing, read about it (and other UK bearing failures) at http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182049

    Tim

  23. #20
    Crested Butte, CO owl is offline F800Riders.org Supporter
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    Spent the morning up at Woodys Wheel Works in Denver yesterday. I really think anyone riding a gs needs to know about this issue.

    A very long thread in ADVrider has been going for a while concerning the failure of the rear bearings, with all sorts of speculations, but Woody spent the morning trying to decifer the real cause of the problem. Bottom line in laymans terms - the hub is too small for that particular bearing and puts to much "crush" on it, causing them to fail. Replacing the bearings is not going to solve the problem for very long.

    THe thread is here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...499504&page=42 Skip to the last several pages to get the just of it. My post #625 tells of the morning at Woodys.

    Woodys post is here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=505577 You can scroll down to post #15 to read his final vedict.

    Being a noobie in the internet forum world I'm not sure what the best way to get the word out is, but I do think it is important.

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    <sniff!> Can't I have a bike that needs no maintenance?

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    Fred, you could buy a fully-electric motorcycle like I have. All you need to do is plug it in and oil the chain. Since the motorcycle chassis is made by Tiger in Thailand and there is no service manual, torque values, maintenance instructions, parts diagrams or anywhere you can buy individual parts for the chassis - you don't need to worry about any of this stuff and therefore there is no need to maintain it. Just ride and enjoy - until the juice runs out.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2014 14.2 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    I can't afford the power cord.

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    Picked my bike up from the dealer today. It was in getting its' scheduled service. This is the second time the dealer has had the back wheel off and it is the second time I have found the chain to be too tight and not aligned properly when I got home.

    A chain that is too tight will certainly have an effect on bearing wear.

  28. #25
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    Rear Wheel Bearing Repair and Replacement BMW F800GS
    Build date 07/08, 8800 miles

    After following various forum posts and reading Woody’s description of the wheel he repaired. I removed the rear wheel of my F800GS motorcycle Sunday to check the wheel bearings. The left (disc) side felt rough and notchy. The right (drive) side felt notchy too, but less than the left. I couldn’t tell if it was transferring across the wheel through the spacer. The bearing in the drive sprocket hub felt smooth.
    I disassembled the wheel and measured the bores and bearings and found a press fit of 0.003” tight, on the left (disc) side and a press fit of 0.002” tight, on the right (drive) side. Both bearings felt smoother after they were removed from their bores, however sight roughness was still apparent.
    I honed both bores to achieve a press fit of 0.001” (N7) tolerance to new SKF 6204 2RS bearings, heated the hub to 200˚ F and installed the disc side bearing and snap ring and then repeated the heating on the drive side and installed the drive side bearing. When cooled and seated the assembly rotated smoothly and correctly with no feeling of roughness.
    I filed a report with the NHTSB and received confirmation yesterday.

  29. #26
    Crested Butte, CO owl is offline F800Riders.org Supporter
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    Hey gjgsrider,
    That was my wheel Woody worked on. Your measurments and the feelings of the bearings in and out of the hub seemed to be nearly identical with mine. Nice you have the tools to do that. Glad to see you reported it as well. Hope some solution is offered real soon by BMW.

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    My rear bearing (the one on the rotor side) was shot. 2009 bike with just under 10,000 miles on it. It had sideways play in it to the point where the rotor actually started rubbing on the ABS sensor and the caliper mount.

    I just got my bike back from the dealership today. They replaced the bearings and seals. Seems ok for now, but who knows.

    Aloha,
    Charlie

  31. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigster View Post
    REAR AXIL BEARINGS ARE FAILING.I have seen some threads on the f800s/st side but very little information on the gs side.
    I have read a lot about the rear bearing issue on the ADVrider site and I'm concerned the information is not getting out. VERY VERY important to check those rear bearings. If anyone else has seen problems let us know. I post what happens at the dealer.ride safe <>< Craigster
    If you notice my post below, my F50 is still in the shop with a rear bearing failure!
    http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33047

    According to my BMW dealer, this is very rare.. but according to this board, BMW needs to really look into quality control for the F series. My F50 has been in the shop; since, last Friday --so after a week not all the parts are in. If the rear bearings are replaced with cheap rear bearings and this happens again, I will also be stranded So what happens if I really want to tour with my F50 and put 300+mi a day this bike like I did with my Goldwings. Granted I have my R12 as backup.. so does this mean that the F50 models are only good for around town. I had no problem detected the wheel bearing going bad, so I know what it feels like before it seizes. If this is common on the BMW F series then I will also get rid of my F50 by this summer and keep my BMW R12 Very sad as I've had my F50 for less than a year, even though warranties their bike for 3 years.
    Last edited by F50; 10-30-09 at 07:38 PM. Reason: .

  32. #29
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    Don't feel bad, I have a 04 Ducati Multistrada. This summer the rear sub frame failed and left the back end from the pillion seat back dangling by the exhaust only.
    I was horrified, had I had a passenger on the back it would have been game over for both of us.
    It was an easy fix and also classified as a rare event, not so rare if it happens to you.
    The Buell Ulysses also has suffered from rear wheel bearing failures.
    Don't know if your R12 is a GS or RT but as you know the GS has been known to suffer from rear drive failures.

    Hard to find a true "no issues" motorcycle, I have yet to find one.

  33. #30
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    My daughter's 1981 R65LS still has the original wheel bearings, which have never even been serviced or greased. The still seem to work just like new. In those days, BMW was using some very high quality materials. Her tool kit has lived under the seat for those 29 years, which included many years in Seattle, and the tools do not have a bit of rust on them. They still work fine for servicing the bike in accordance with the excellent owner's manual that gives detailed instructions to the owner on how each required service procedure is performed.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2014 14.2 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2007 BMW R1200R, 2005 Triumph T-100 Bonneville, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

  34. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by F50 View Post
    If you notice my post below, my F50 is still in the shop with a rear bearing failure!
    http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33047

    According to my BMW dealer, this is very rare.. but according to this board, BMW needs to really look into quality control for the F series. My F50 has been in the shop; since, last Friday --so after a week not all the parts are in. If the rear bearings are replaced with cheap rear bearings and this happens again, I will also be stranded So what happens if I really want to tour with my F50 and put 300+mi a day this bike like I did with my Goldwings. Granted I have my R12 as backup.. so does this mean that the F50 models are only good for around town. I had no problem detected the wheel bearing going bad, so I know what it feels like before it seizes. If this is common on the BMW F series then I will also get rid of my F50 by this summer and keep my BMW R12 Very sad as I've had my F50 for less than a year, even though warranties their bike for 3 years.

    Rick, since this is going to take so long, did they offer you a loaner bike?
    2009 F800ST: midnight blue [ABS OBC TPMS etc]
    "bandas, bolas e bundas" - Rita Lee 

  35. #32
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    Richard230, the BMW R65LS was my first BMW back in the 80's that I bought to replace my Honda CBX Back in those days, BMW had some quality build motorcycle even with the quirks. The BMW R65LS wasn't the fastest nor smoothest bike, but I had quite a few trips from L.A. to Salt Lake City, UT, Phoenix, AZ, Las Vegas, NV. It lasted through severe rain storms and one hail storm. My fork seals kept popping out as it was a manufactured defect by BMW, tail lights would go out, had to repair a petcock leak while on the road as it was leaking when I got to Grand Canyon.

    Thank you for asking romanr, no they aren't giving me a loaner bike. I have 2 other motorcycles so it is okay. I do want to document that there is indeed another rear bearing failures. When talking to the service, they thought it was an exception to all BMWs. After reading this post and some other posts on this forum. At least in the future if other F800cc riders have similar rear bearing problems then at least it is documented on this forum.

    If I didn't own 2 other bikes to ride, it would be a problem. I see this board as basically being able to document that other riders are experiencing similar problems and BMW can improve with better quality control.

    The BMW F650 is a vast improvement over the the BMW R650 in performance, gear shifting, acceleration, high speed cruising. The BMW R1200 is a vast improvement over prior BMW Rseries.. this includes the R1150. The BMW R1200 gear shifting is much smoother, acceleration and comfort cruising is vastly improved. So BMW does listen to their customers and have improved the overall quality in yesteryears. Adding the dual spark, counter-balance , greatly improved gearbox to the R1200 certainly improved overall quality from the past.

    If BMW keeps an "open eye" to other problems that customers are having and resolves them, then BMW won't go the way of what Honda is experiencing at this time.

  36. #33
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    Stupid question: All the bikes I,ve owned I never had a bearing issue . What is the first sign of a bearing problem? I presume if I spin the wheel while on center stand I should hear a defec bearing , and should I remove calipers for me to hear if bearings are going? Or, is visual check better? Thanks .
    First one out , last one in.
    '09 BMW F650GS Twin
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  37. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giodog2000 View Post
    Stupid question: All the bikes I,ve owned I never had a bearing issue . What is the first sign of a bearing problem? I presume if I spin the wheel while on center stand I should hear a defec bearing , and should I remove calipers for me to hear if bearings are going? Or, is visual check better? Thanks .
    Best way to check your bearings is to remove the rear wheel. Remove the wheel spacer so that you can touch the inner race of the bearing your are going to check. Stick your first and middle finger into the axle bore hole in the bearing and try to turn the inner race. If it feels smooth and does not have any problem turning, then your bearing is ok. If it feels rough or notchie, then you may need to replace your bearing.

    Good Luck

    LaPorte

  38. Thanks Giodog2000 thanked for this post.
  39. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by gjgsrider View Post
    Rear Wheel Bearing Repair and Replacement BMW F800GS
    Build date 07/08, 8800 miles

    After following various forum posts and reading Woody’s description of the wheel he repaired. I removed the rear wheel of my F800GS motorcycle Sunday to check the wheel bearings. The left (disc) side felt rough and notchy. The right (drive) side felt notchy too, but less than the left. I couldn’t tell if it was transferring across the wheel through the spacer. The bearing in the drive sprocket hub felt smooth.
    I disassembled the wheel and measured the bores and bearings and found a press fit of 0.003” tight, on the left (disc) side and a press fit of 0.002” tight, on the right (drive) side. Both bearings felt smoother after they were removed from their bores, however sight roughness was still apparent.
    I honed both bores to achieve a press fit of 0.001” (N7) tolerance to new SKF 6204 2RS bearings, heated the hub to 200˚ F and installed the disc side bearing and snap ring and then repeated the heating on the drive side and installed the drive side bearing. When cooled and seated the assembly rotated smoothly and correctly with no feeling of roughness.
    I filed a report with the NHTSB and received confirmation yesterday.

    hi,,had a bunch of disgruntled F800GS riders ask me to chime in...
    i did this morning accidentally replying to a thread called rear wheel bearing failures in your Hall of wisdom section,,
    so here's my post #10 and 12

    http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40726

    kudos to gigsrider for doing it the scientific way,,you will experience no more problems,,you arrived at the same measurements as i found in a dozen other bad hubs,,,and ya honed it to the correct specs ,,,essentially .005'' crush per inch of bearing diameter

    kudos to Owl for spreading the word

    bottom line is ONLY settle for arepair ,,a new hub or a new wheel and go to your dealer and report it ,,,if all else fails ya know who can do it,,,

    if there any other issues i can help with just holler

    woody

  40. #36
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    How do you guys get the new bearings in?
    2010 BMW F800GS Owned for one year 22 000km trouble free.........
    2010 BMW R1200GSA Owner since 23th of December 2010.......15 900km trouble free..........As of today The20th of May 2011
    F800 GS Photos:
    http://johannbmw.blogspot.com/ 

  41. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johann View Post
    How do you guys get the new bearings in?
    i assume you mean putting them in the hub??,,if so ,same as the manual sez,,heat hub ,,freeze bearing ,,ploink it drops in..simple as that,,if ya need some assitance use a socket or drift the same diameter as the outer race to seat it,,DO NOT bang on the inner race!!!

    Psssst,this technique only works well if you have the correct bore size!!! ,,hence many of the posts on ADVrider complained it went in alittle ,,,then i had to beat it in the rest of the way,,,Voila a sure indicator that ya have an undersized bore!!!

    if ya meant obtaining BMW's special bearing ,,i believe it is a C-5 [a looser tolerance bearing than C-3,,i believe BMWs rational was that when it crushes it'll hav e little more room than the C-3] instead of the standard C-3 that everyone and they themselves had in there before,,the new PN is

    9 07119903603 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 20X47X14 0.23 1 $16.71 x2ea for hub

    FYI the standard C-3 6204 2RS bearing measures 20x47x14 and is still listed as the bearing in the sprocket carrier item#25 in the microfiche as:
    25 07119981221 GROOVED BALL BEARING - 6204-2RS 0.22 1 $16.71 x1ea for spkt carrier

    while i'm at it here's the link to MaxBmw's on line microfiche,,it'll save ya alot of trouble in the future...
    http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...8&rnd=03192010

    last but not least,,i found the invoice for Ddrags hub swap,,,the only known incident where BMW sent a new hub and replacement parts for having his hub replaceds...we were going to do it and upgrade his wheel at the same time but they got alocal wheelsmith to do it,,,

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=782

    woody

    woody
    Last edited by wizard; 07-13-10 at 06:25 AM.

  42. #38
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    Thanks Mate of course “in the hub”. I have installed my new bearings already I was just curious how you guys do it.
    When I installed my bearings I made up a special little precision seating tool similar to the one in the Manual. Now the important part (I think).
    The manual says to install the left hand side first.
    Reason for it is that this bearing will go in the hub all the way. (Use the installation Tool)!
    The circlip will not be installed at this time. (Circlip and seals go in last).
    Now using the installation tool again (if you want to get it right): Flat” Pull in disc “goes in the just installed left hand side and will keep inner and outer race in line (no side loading).
    A Spindle goes right through the hub, the very important spacer tube in between the left hand bearing and the right hand bearing, which sits on a locating disc.
    The locating disc insures that the bearings are parallel to each other at all times and prevents any side loading. Now you just wind the two together until seated. Seated means the inside races just touching the spacer tube.
    Install Circlip and seals use Staburags NBU 30 PTM to lubricate and you are done.
    Since the hub is machined to allow clearance for spacer distance in between bearings, tapping the bearing in all the way on the outer race would certainly side load both bearings.
    To me there is no other way than to use the right tool for the job!
    Heating the seat to specs is also very important. I was never a friend of freezing bearings.
    Every bearing we installed using the freezing method (Industrial applications, big bearings and sometimes old machinery) had to be cleaned and re packed after installation.
    As in heating the hub to C 100deg. And dropping in a sealed frozen bearing, I honestly would not recommend this practice.
    As for the 6204 size same size bearing different brand. I personally prefer SKF. There is however a 6204 from SKF with a non friction seal (no good I think because there is a good possibility of moisture entering the bearing).
    Interesting too is the ADVrider input on “banging” the bearing in! No banging or hammering on a bearing ever!! Install by means of pressing on outer and inner race at the same time (correct tooling). I went through a few posts on ADVrider about failed bearings as well especially the ones with the tight bores. This would be even longer post writing about bore sizes in detail but my gut feeling would be NOT to do it. Why? The hub has been engineered to certain specs. Say for instance temperature..Two different materials (hub and bearing) that means two different rates of expanding and shrinking. In special applications the seats are a little smaller to allow for a different expansion rate. I sure hope that the guys are measuring hub bores at an ambient temperature of exactly C19deg. Too! Just imagine opening out your hub bores, easily done but what happens if something goes wrong and somebody gets hurt? BMW will have their sizes and could easily prove that somebody has tempered with the original hub! Who is going to pay for injury or damage?
    Nobody. With the exception of somebody has done it for you. You could go after that somebody good luck there too!
    I can only say for myself I have changed the bearings on my second set of wheels 6000Miles
    Left hand bearing on the rear a little rough but after cutting it in half there was no damage or sign of it at all. The newly installed bearings also feel OK after cooling down.
    But that is only my opinion Safe riding!
    2010 BMW F800GS Owned for one year 22 000km trouble free.........
    2010 BMW R1200GSA Owner since 23th of December 2010.......15 900km trouble free..........As of today The20th of May 2011
    F800 GS Photos:
    http://johannbmw.blogspot.com/ 

  43. #39
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    different strokes for different folks johan,,,

    i, like you have made special pullers for bearing installation,,,we have trick assy tools to press bearings in ,etc etc,,,with properly speced bearing bores,,,the heat n chill method is an elegant super easy way to install bearings if you are prepared and quick....FYI,,,i myself have not read an F800Gs repair manual,,,,it iwas my fellow inmates who posted that technique and saying they were following the instructions in there manuals ,,perhaps they have different manuals down under...i myself didn't have any strange re-action to this tried and true technique,,,especially since it's been used by BMW for the last 50-60years or more.

    your claim about having to redo all the frozen bearings simply doesn't ring a bell with me,,,i've done at least 1,000+ bearings like this with not a single comeback,,Hmmmmnnn and my motorcycles have gone thu thousands of heat/freeze cycles where i live,in colorado,,yes we ride em in below 0degree C/F weather!!!!

    for some reason this site doesn't allow the use of the tool bar,,i was going to run through your reply and highlight some of your staements for rebuttal/clarifying purposes,,,instead i'll put a few **** in your text


    Quote Originally Posted by johann View Post
    thanks mate of course “in the hub”. I have installed my new bearings already i was just curious how you guys do it.
    When i installed my bearings i made up a special little precision seating tool similar to the one in the manual. Now the important part (i think).
    The manual says to install the left hand side first.
    Reason for it is that this bearing will go in the hub all the way. (use the installation tool)!
    The circlip will not be installed at this time. (circlip and seals go in last).
    Now using the installation tool again (if you want to get it right): Flat” pull in disc “goes in the just installed left hand side and will keep inner and outer race in line (no side loading).
    A spindle goes right through the hub, the very important spacer tube in between the left hand bearing and the right hand bearing, which sits on a locating disc.
    The locating disc insures that the bearings are parallel to each other at all times and prevents any side loading. Now you just wind the two together until seated. Seated means the inside races just touching the spacer tube.

    ****you said the important words ''just touching the inner tube''',,the first bearing ie the disc side bearing is the locator bearing on these versions of hub,,,the circlip wants to be installed with the sharp edges out,,this bearing keeps the hub perfectly aligned so your disc brake stays perfectly aligned in your caliper,,the other bearing essentially should float with zero pre-load***

    Install circlip and seals use staburags nbu 30 ptm to lubricate and you are done.
    Since the hub is machined to allow clearance for spacer distance in between bearings, tapping the bearing in all the way on the outer race would certainly side load both bearings.
    To me there is no other way than to use the right tool for the job!

    ****when you drop the bearings in they will seat by thenslves,,,,,disc side first ,,ploink drop in,,i install the circlip at this time to keep it in place,,it only takes a second or two for the hub to chill n grip the bearing,,,flip install the spacer and drop in the second one,,,voila basically done,,,***

    Heating the seat to specs is also very important. I was never a friend of freezing bearings.
    Every bearing we installed using the freezing method (industrial applications, big bearings and sometimes old machinery) had to be cleaned and re packed after installation.
    As in heating the hub to c 100deg. And dropping in a sealed frozen bearing, i honestly would not recommend this practice.

    *** well i addressed that earlier***

    As for the 6204 size same size bearing different brand. I personally prefer skf. There is however a 6204 from skf with a non friction seal (no good i think because there is a good possibility of moisture entering the bearing).

    ***we install SKFs,,,they too have failed in the bad hubs,,,,FYI ,,i can't remember having any bearings fail that were set up correctly regardless of brand,,,for those needing SKFs we have no problem soucing /using them,,,for the dual-sport crowd that do lot's of watercrossings we automatically re-pack them with boat trailer grease****

    Interesting too is the advrider input on “banging” the bearing in! No banging or hammering on a bearing ever!!

    **** see above post !!! no ''banging on inner INNER races during installation would be more sensible***

    Install by means of pressing on outer and inner race at the same time (correct tooling). I went through a few posts on advrider about failed bearings as well especially the ones with the tight bores. This would be even longer post writing about bore sizes in detail but my gut feeling would be not to do it.

    **** why not to do what???,,just curious,,i lost your drift somewhere....***

    Why? The hub has been engineered to certain specs. Say for instance temperature..two different materials (hub and bearing) that means two different rates of expanding and shrinking. In special applications the seats are a little smaller to allow for a different expansion rate. I sure hope that the guys are measuring hub bores at an ambient temperature of exactly c19deg. Too! Just imagine opening out your hub bores, easily done but what happens if something goes wrong and somebody gets hurt? Bmw will have their sizes and could easily prove that somebody has tempered with the original hub! Who is going to pay for injury or damage?
    Nobody. With the exception of somebody has done it for you. You could go after that somebody good luck there too!
    I can only say for myself i have changed the bearings on my second set of wheels 6000miles
    left hand bearing on the rear a little rough but after cutting it in half there was no damage or sign of it at all. The newly installed bearings also feel ok after cooling down.
    But that is only my opinion safe riding!
    ****FYI,,all the hubs were measured and re-machined/honed at room temperature to standardized crush tolerances,,,and all the talk here is of a certain batch of F800GS hubs that although machined by someone ,,,they were not machined for bearing tolerances needed in aluminum hubs.,,why do we need different crush figures for aluminum vs steel BWOE,,because when aluminum expands more rapidly the id of the bore also grows,,,hence the crush so that when your aluminum hub grows ya won't have a loose bearing floating around in there...not measuring your bearing bore leaveyou in the land of ASSuming..remember the old ASSuME cliche??

    FYI,,that crunchy feeling in your bearing is a sure fire indicator that in this scenario that ya have one of ''them hubs'',,,the fact that the bearing feels a lil smoother after ya took out stands to reason,,or that it appeared ok after ya cut it in half just means you caught it at an early stage ,,i bet that under a microscope you'd be seeing something else....

    and here's the invoice for Ddrags replaced hub,,note BMW's ''mis-machined hub'' header,,,the special new bearings,,before they were all the same part number as the standard 2RS[2 rubber seals] still used in the sprocket carrier
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=782

    i just always have my grammer school nuns mantra running in the back of my head...""Good,,better,, best....never let it rest!!!...til the good is better and the better is the best!!!...

    of course all of this banter is prefaced by IMHO

    woody
    Last edited by wizard; 07-13-10 at 07:35 AM.

  44. #40
    Pete O Static's Avatar
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    I have been watching this subject over on advrider and now here. In one regard, it is great info because I now make it a habit to periodically check my rear wheel bearings. In another regard, people taking this issue into their own hands and bypassing the dealer is dangerous and fruitless in my opinion.

    Firstly, the bikes are under warranty. Why are guys hacking up their wheel hubs and putting in aftermarket bearings in the back of their garages?

    Secondly, like Johann mentioned, if something goes wrong, the liability has been squarely transferred from BMW to yourself. Not to mention, it may essentially be covering up a problem that will never be addressed unless people with bad bearings demand replacement from BMW. An example of this would be the chain recall.

    As a result of this issue being discussed, I now personally have the tech at my dealership pull the rear wheel each time it is in for service to check the bearings. This gets noted on the work order which creates a very clear paper trail and provides history on my bike. I have been lucky, no bearing issues and this is signed off by a factory trained, qualified and licensed technician. Very cheap insurance.

    When the time comes to sell my bike and that day will eventually arrive, the new owner will get that history and I will sleep well at night knowing that there isn't a bike on the road with a set of bearings in the drive wheel that I installed with a torch and a rubber mallet in the back of my garage.

    I can just imagine the transcripts in a court of law should the wheel seize just after you sold the bike to someone and they were injured or killed........" So Mr.Doe, if I understand this correctly, rather than have a factory qualified and trained technician diagnose a known issue, you decided to do it yourself. What are your qualifications in this matter.....?"

    No Thanks.
    F800GS 

  45. Thanks Johann thanked for this post.
  46. #41
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    Hey Peace Brother I was saying.......But that is only my opinion Safe riding!
    I love the saying “Good, better, best....never let it rest!!!...til the good is better and the better is best” and so does Jack Canfield!
    I also find somebody who’s done modifications to bikes that belong to somebody else and guarantee the work admirable!
    All I am trying to convey is that I am legally licensed to do work on motorcycles and cars and I am not out to prove somebody else wrong! I am also not saying that there is a perfect or faulty hub in the production line all I am saying is that you don’t machine an OEM hub! If you think the hub is no good, cover it under Warranty! If you are out of Warranty and you are not happy with the whole thing get aftermarket hubs they look great and got some warranty on their own!
    If none of the above applies get your hub, measure it again and present the wrong or incorrect measurements and hub to BMW but make sure the measurements are done at C 19 deg.
    The only thing you can do if you are qualified is change the bearings as per Repair Manual!
    No banging /freezing or re-packing a new sealed bearing with boat trailer grease!
    I am really trying hard to give some positive input on bearings here and after many, many, official audits with SKF,CBC,and other bearing companies, I still don’t think you should bang a bearing regardless of inner or outer bearing race! The same goes for freezing the bearing in this application.
    (As I mentioned in the earlier post freeze, clean and re-pack bearings was done in industrial applications ea. Bearings 300mm to 1600mm OD and not on a sealed bearing).
    But as I was saying earlier on” That is only my opinion Safe riding”
    PS: I maybe ad down under “where things are done differently”
    2010 BMW F800GS Owned for one year 22 000km trouble free.........
    2010 BMW R1200GSA Owner since 23th of December 2010.......15 900km trouble free..........As of today The20th of May 2011
    F800 GS Photos:
    http://johannbmw.blogspot.com/ 

  47. Thanks Pete O Static thanked for this post.
  48. #42
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    why 19C ?

    ISA temp is 15C
     

  49. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O Static View Post
    I have been watching this subject over on advrider and now here. In one regard, it is great info because I now make it a habit to periodically check my rear wheel bearings. In another regard, people taking this issue into their own hands and bypassing the dealer is dangerous and fruitless in my opinion.

    Firstly, the bikes are under warranty. Why are guys hacking up their wheel hubs and putting in aftermarket bearings in the back of their garages?

    Secondly, like Johann mentioned, if something goes wrong, the liability has been squarely transferred from BMW to yourself. Not to mention, it may essentially be covering up a problem that will never be addressed unless people with bad bearings demand replacement from BMW. An example of this would be the chain recall.

    As a result of this issue being discussed, I now personally have the tech at my dealership pull the rear wheel each time it is in for service to check the bearings. This gets noted on the work order which creates a very clear paper trail and provides history on my bike. I have been lucky, no bearing issues and this is signed off by a factory trained, qualified and licensed technician. Very cheap insurance.

    When the time comes to sell my bike and that day will eventually arrive, the new owner will get that history and I will sleep well at night knowing that there isn't a bike on the road with a set of bearings in the drive wheel that I installed with a torch and a rubber mallet in the back of my garage.

    I can just imagine the transcripts in a court of law should the wheel seize just after you sold the bike to someone and they were injured or killed........" So Mr.Doe, if I understand this correctly, rather than have a factory qualified and trained technician diagnose a known issue, you decided to do it yourself. What are your qualifications in this matter.....?"

    No Thanks.
    That is really simple to answer....... Bmw is denying that the hub squires the bearing too much...leading to premature failure.... They just replaces the bearing........
    If Bmw won`t fix it......Someone has to make this a reliable machine.......I think that if you study the cases of bad rear bearing.... You need to ask your self if you`d take the 8GS on a 2000 mile trip with that..... I would`nt. It`s just like in the beginning with the Charcoal canister....denial....then came the recall....... Chain.....denial........then came the recall.
    Good luck with your Bmw bearings.....

    Erling

  50. #44
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    Erling

    I understand what you are saying but how long do think BMW will continue to replace bearings until one of the bean counters figures out how much that is costing them, legal pipes up about the looming liability and engineering gets told to rectify the issue once and for all? Several comments from posters claim that BMW is simply denying things. I beg to differ. We are talking about a huge company complete with its' own bureaucracy selling product worldwide. It cannot possibly react as quickly as we may like. However, if people just arbitrarily take the issue into their own hands, then in the long run, we possibly create more problems.

    As a result, BMW may not be made aware of how many bikes are actually having this issue and unaware prospective buyers of second hand bikes may be purchasing units that have had rear wheel bearing replacements done by previous owners who may or may not have known what they were doing.

    So far, BMW has been pretty good with issues. The recall campaigns have been addressing chains, cracking gas tanks, coolant hoses, front axles, etc. It does take time however and this is still an early production bike, so yes, I will have my bearings replaced by a qualified BMW technician, under warranty, if they do in fact need replacing, which to date, they don't and neither did my gas tank, shock bolt, or chain need replacing either. So no, I would not think twice about going on a 2000 mile trip based on an internet thread when I have had them checked.

    I would however postpone a 2000 mile trip if I knew I had a bike with aftermarket rear bearings installed by a previous owner who may or may not have done a proper job.

    Perhaps, as an airline pilot, I am coming at this from a different perspective. I could never accept an airplane for flight unless I was sure it was airworthy and maintained by properly qualified personnel. In fact I am legally obligated not to. So I treat my bike with the equal respect because the possible outcome for negligence is the same.
    F800GS 

  51. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O Static View Post
    Erling

    I understand what you are saying but how long do think BMW will continue to replace bearings until one of the bean counters figures out how much that is costing them, legal pipes up about the looming liability and engineering gets told to rectify the issue once and for all? Several comments from posters claim that BMW is simply denying things. I beg to differ. We are talking about a huge company complete with its' own bureaucracy selling product worldwide. It cannot possibly react as quickly as we may like. However, if people just arbitrarily take the issue into their own hands, then in the long run, we possibly create more problems.

    As a result, BMW may not be made aware of how many bikes are actually having this issue and unaware prospective buyers of second hand bikes may be purchasing units that have had rear wheel bearing replacements done by previous owners who may or may not have known what they were doing.

    So far, BMW has been pretty good with issues. The recall campaigns have been addressing chains, cracking gas tanks, coolant hoses, front axles, etc. It does take time however and this is still an early production bike, so yes, I will have my bearings replaced by a qualified BMW technician, under warranty, if they do in fact need replacing, which to date, they don't and neither did my gas tank, shock bolt, or chain need replacing either. So no, I would not think twice about going on a 2000 mile trip based on an internet thread when I have had them checked.

    I would however postpone a 2000 mile trip if I knew I had a bike with aftermarket rear bearings installed by a previous owner who may or may not have done a proper job.

    Perhaps, as an airline pilot, I am coming at this from a different perspective. I could never accept an airplane for flight unless I was sure it was airworthy and maintained by properly qualified personnel. In fact I am legally obligated not to. So I treat my bike with the equal respect because the possible outcome for negligence is the same.



    +1 Paul
    I have changed my bearings on a second hand set of wheels which I got no warranty cover.
    On my bike I would not do it simply because it is under warranty. BMW problem, they will fix it!
    If something goes wrong while I ride off road with the repaired set of wheels, it would be entirely my problem. I replaced my bearing with SKF but it does not mean that I will blindly trust any mechanical component and not check it after riding. There are certain signs leading up to a complete bearing failure quite a while before it happens.
    Safe Riding!
    2010 BMW F800GS Owned for one year 22 000km trouble free.........
    2010 BMW R1200GSA Owner since 23th of December 2010.......15 900km trouble free..........As of today The20th of May 2011
    F800 GS Photos:
    http://johannbmw.blogspot.com/ 

  52. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O Static View Post
    Erling

    I understand what you are saying but how long do think BMW will continue to replace bearings until one of the bean counters figures out how much that is costing them, legal pipes up about the looming liability and engineering gets told to rectify the issue once and for all? Several comments from posters claim that BMW is simply denying things. I beg to differ. We are talking about a huge company complete with its' own bureaucracy selling product worldwide. It cannot possibly react as quickly as we may like. However, if people just arbitrarily take the issue into their own hands, then in the long run, we possibly create more problems.

    As a result, BMW may not be made aware of how many bikes are actually having this issue and unaware prospective buyers of second hand bikes may be purchasing units that have had rear wheel bearing replacements done by previous owners who may or may not have known what they were doing.

    So far, BMW has been pretty good with issues. The recall campaigns have been addressing chains, cracking gas tanks, coolant hoses, front axles, etc. It does take time however and this is still an early production bike, so yes, I will have my bearings replaced by a qualified BMW technician, under warranty, if they do in fact need replacing, which to date, they don't and neither did my gas tank, shock bolt, or chain need replacing either. So no, I would not think twice about going on a 2000 mile trip based on an internet thread when I have had them checked.

    I would however postpone a 2000 mile trip if I knew I had a bike with aftermarket rear bearings installed by a previous owner who may or may not have done a proper job.

    Perhaps, as an airline pilot, I am coming at this from a different perspective. I could never accept an airplane for flight unless I was sure it was airworthy and maintained by properly qualified personnel. In fact I am legally obligated not to. So I treat my bike with the equal respect because the possible outcome for negligence is the same.
    I will agree on your comments about ....should we call it...." shady install procedures" These bearings need to be installed correctly. Here is where I disagree....... 3 months ago I took a trip on the 8gs. 2000 miles round trip. I have been reading about the "stall in the rain" issue, but thought like you....BMW will act. Mind you this was around March..... Recall for the canister was issued around January, I think. Went through rain....lost of it....and bike stalled....left me stranded....... I was aware of it, and simply removed the canister...and bike ran fine, and took me home. Fast forward to 6 weeks ago..... Bike would not crank.....( sits on a yasa tender at home all time)......i boosted it....bike ran fine for 3 weeks....... Then it happened again.... Called road service....picked up the bike....took it to the dealer.... New battery....Old one collapsed. Two stories.....First one I fixed myself..... Second one BMW fixed for me. What I have an issue with here, is the denial part ( you should be very familiar with that through your CRM ). BMW was in denial for months with the stalling......as they were in the chain.......then came the recall.
    In the case of the rear wheel, I must say that I`m surprised that you don`t accept the fact that the hub one some 8gs are machined too tight.....creating too high a crush on the bearing.....thus slowly destroying said bearing. Some BMW dealers in Denver have just send the wheel to Woodys down the street in Denver to have it milled so the bearing will fit. And new bearings with the same outer diameter will only yield same results...... When BMW replaced mine.......the new red one were the same diameter as the old ones........ New ones felt good before install...... Felt notchy after install......BMW tech scratched his head, and said......that`s all they could do. I`m glad to hear that you would`nt accept an unworthy aircraft...... In to many cases....... such is not always the case. If the public new how many flights takes place annually with non MEL`able items......They`d be in shock..... Like the fact that the installed passenger masks will cause them to take a nap while in a dive from 40000 feet after loosing the cabin......But that`s another story....
    I would like to share your faith in BMW, and tend to share my view with you on the part that the bean counters will react......... It just usually takes too long.... Look at Toyota........Now Apple with their new I4......
    Erling

  53. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
    I will agree on your comments about ....should we call it...." shady install procedures" These bearings need to be installed correctly. Here is where I disagree....... 3 months ago I took a trip on the 8gs. 2000 miles round trip. I have been reading about the "stall in the rain" issue, but thought like you....BMW will act. Mind you this was around March..... Recall for the canister was issued around January, I think. Went through rain....lost of it....and bike stalled....left me stranded....... I was aware of it, and simply removed the canister...and bike ran fine, and took me home. Fast forward to 6 weeks ago..... Bike would not crank.....( sits on a yasa tender at home all time)......i boosted it....bike ran fine for 3 weeks....... Then it happened again.... Called road service....picked up the bike....took it to the dealer.... New battery....Old one collapsed. Two stories.....First one I fixed myself..... Second one BMW fixed for me. What I have an issue with here, is the denial part ( you should be very familiar with that through your CRM ). BMW was in denial for months with the stalling......as they were in the chain.......then came the recall.
    In the case of the rear wheel, I must say that I`m surprised that you don`t accept the fact that the hub one some 8gs are machined too tight.....creating too high a crush on the bearing.....thus slowly destroying said bearing. Some BMW dealers in Denver have just send the wheel to Woodys down the street in Denver to have it milled so the bearing will fit. And new bearings with the same outer diameter will only yield same results...... When BMW replaced mine.......the new red one were the same diameter as the old ones........ New ones felt good before install...... Felt notchy after install......BMW tech scratched his head, and said......that`s all they could do. I`m glad to hear that you would`nt accept an unworthy aircraft...... In to many cases....... such is not always the case. If the public new how many flights takes place annually with non MEL`able items......They`d be in shock..... Like the fact that the installed passenger masks will cause them to take a nap while in a dive from 40000 feet after loosing the cabin......But that`s another story....
    I would like to share your faith in BMW, and tend to share my view with you on the part that the bean counters will react......... It just usually takes too long.... Look at Toyota........Now Apple with their new I4......
    Erling
    I don’t think it is a matter of not accepting a faulty or tight machined hub.
    The matter is to go through the proper channels to obtain warranty and insurance.... as you said some hubs got send to be re- machined by the BMW Dealer. So that means he accepted the fault took responsibility and corrected it, that in turn means the bloke going through him has full warranty and he (the BMW dealer) has also full responsibility. That is OK but the interesting part would be what BMW got to say if they would be informed that a dealer of theirs accepted the fact that their hubs are faulty! Would that call for an imminent recall on some bikes?
    Safe Riding
    2010 BMW F800GS Owned for one year 22 000km trouble free.........
    2010 BMW R1200GSA Owner since 23th of December 2010.......15 900km trouble free..........As of today The20th of May 2011
    F800 GS Photos:
    http://johannbmw.blogspot.com/ 

  54. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johann View Post
    I don’t think it is a matter of not accepting a faulty or tight machined hub.
    The matter is to go through the proper channels to obtain warranty and insurance.... as you said some hubs got send to be re- machined by the BMW Dealer. So that means he accepted the fault took responsibility and corrected it, that in turn means the bloke going through him has full warranty and he (the BMW dealer) has also full responsibility. That is OK but the interesting part would be what BMW got to say if they would be informed that a dealer of theirs accepted the fact that their hubs are faulty! Would that call for an imminent recall on some bikes?
    Safe Riding
    Only time will tell. We shall see what they do....(BMW).


    Erling

  55. #49
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    Add me to the list, just had my rear tire replaced and bearings felt notchy. Slight scoring
    on axle shaft from outermost RH bearing near sprocket. BMW dealer said wheel bearings not covered, pulled out warranty policy and showed me the print. So now I am looking at an estimate for $300 parts and labor. What kind of BS is BMW trying to pull?
    A bearing is not a wear item, unless so is a cam bearing, crank bearing etc. Technically EVERYTHING could be considered a wear item.....

    Looking at the new Multistrada more and more, I hate being jacked around by a manufacturer.
    I spent a ton of money on what is marketed as a premium bike, I will give Ducati a try now.

  56. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by partytime View Post
    Add me to the list, just had my rear tire replaced and bearings felt notchy. Slight scoring
    on axle shaft from outermost RH bearing near sprocket. BMW dealer said wheel bearings not covered, pulled out warranty policy and showed me the print. So now I am looking at an estimate for $300 parts and labor. What kind of BS is BMW trying to pull?
    A bearing is not a wear item, unless so is a cam bearing, crank bearing etc. Technically EVERYTHING could be considered a wear item.....

    Looking at the new Multistrada more and more, I hate being jacked around by a manufacturer.
    I spent a ton of money on what is marketed as a premium bike, I will give Ducati a try now.
    Your dealer have`nt got a clue....... Really...... Not kidding here. There is a bulletin covering this....with a replacement procedure including a different axle.....The replacement bearings are red in color so to see the difference...... The reason I know..... I had mine done at my dealer in NM..... They showed me the bulletin. You need to re-visit with your dealer..... Enlighten him....so to speak.....

    Erling

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