Bar risers F800ST - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
    Dunno if anyone interested, just fitted a set of SW-Motech handlebar risers to my F800ST. Much more comfy, windsreen still effective... a great mod.

    No modifications to cables or wiring needed, other than the rubber grommet on the brake pipe clip to the lower steering yoke needs loosening (its's glued!)

    SW-Motech part LEH.oo.039.103/20/Ssilber for KTM, Kawasaki, Suzuki 22mm Lenker - 20mm higher

    www.adventure.gs

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  3. #2
    el rey godo Guest
    Micky, I'm about to put one of these bar-risers on my St, so I'd like to ask you some questions, as I'm in doubt between 20 and 30 mm:

    - do you think the cables will be ok with 30 mm risers, or will it be too much?

    - have you rerouted the brake line, or have only loosen the rubber grommet? In other topic, Geir explained how to reroute the line.

    - have your bike abs? mine have

    Thanks



  4. #3

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    No probs. My 'bike has abs. I think you might have a problem with going 30mm higher though! The 20mm higher option seems to make a vast difference, doesn't sound a lot, but you can certainly tell.

    No cables wanted re routing, but as said, the grommet had to be allowed to move where the brake pipe is secured to the lower fork yoke.

    The only trouble is one of aesthetics.... the risers are of smaller section than the clamp above and the mounting below!!

    Hope this helps....

    www.adventure.gs

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  5. #4
    el rey godo Guest

    I can go with the aesthetics

    Thanks a lot


  6. #5
    trevor's Avatar
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    Check out mine which are higher and go back as well.

    LOVE EM!

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  7. #6
    el rey godo Guest
    Trevor, I've posted this reply in the other topic, but afterthat I've realized that it's so old that you hardly will read it again, so I reproduce it this place.

    I've ordered a set of back risers as described by Micky, but yours are very interesting, too. But they are higher , so they have to need more space from cables.

    Didn't you have any problem with the brake hose? Did you need to reroute it?

    And finally, how is the feeling of the bike now, better, worse, ...?

    Thanks

    V'ss

  8. #7
    trevor's Avatar
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    Yes we are starting to repeat ourselves a bit, but that's what comes of the bike being launched at different times around the world. Some like Pat have had theirs for 6,000 miles others only 6,000 feet.

    I love my higher bars. As I said in my last post it just transformed the bike, I see other commenting about buffeting from the screen and this slight change in position made it go away for me, I also suffer from RSI and an hours riding would make my wrists painful and I'm not as young as I was, so moving the weight off them gave me back ache, I now have a nice comfy loose grip on the bars.

    I'm still not 100% sure about the clutch cable, it rubs on the ignition switch, and the outer cable is getting a few marks, it only rubs however on full left lock. I've tried a few things (see last post I re-routed it behind the throttle cable) but think I might have to get a longer clutch cable, about 50mm longer. We have an annual Warrant of Fitness and cables are not supposed to snag, if I get a "jobs worth" at the testing station they may not like it (I could of course just remove them before the test). But Googling has turned up a place fairly close that makes cables so I might get a longer clutch cable made up before the Summer (WOF is due in December). All the other cables etc. are fine. I've looked at re-routing (but not hard) it seems strange the clutch cable runs across the bike so I might be able to route it under the left side of the "tank" (what do we call the plastic battery cover thingy on an F800?). As we have had a very dry Summer and Autumn I've been riding not tinkering, but the wet Winter days are coming so I will get a permanent solution over Winter (Winter for me is about 7-8 weeks).

    If you want to practice riding with them take your closed hands and move them up and back so your knuckles are just above and behind where they are normally (i.e up and back about 40mm at 45 degrees), I found it a lot less strain on my back, and my stomach came off the tank, which I hope will also stop the paint getting rubbed.

    If you are thinking about it, I would say do it! Also shipping from the USA by Eurotech was reasonable, a company that understand International shipping, as most of us non Americans know, most US based companies have no idea, often quoting stupid shipping amounts. Although I think the guys in Germany (Hornig?) might also do them which may be better for Spain (I think they are made in the EEC).

    Hope this helps.
    Trevor

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  9. #8
    JohnU's Avatar
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    I have just finished fitting bar risers from MV Motorrad in Germany. The base of my thumbs were aching due to slightly too much weight on them.


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    As you can see the bars can be raised a lot - 3 inches vertically but this can be altered with slanting the bars back to be nearer the rider.

    Fitting involved moving the clutch cable to the other side of the steering head, moving the throttle cable to be behind some cabling and relocating the brake pipe after disconnecting it at the handlebars (bleeding the system required).

    Altogether a little challenging to do on an unfamiliar bike but it worked out OK.


  10. #9
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    Hi Trevor,

    Re your snagging clutch cable.

    Why donn`t you move it to the left side of the steering head - it`s quite easy - in fact I donn`t see why it wasn`t placed there during manufacture - it seems more natural.

  11. #10
    trevor's Avatar
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    I "hadn't got around to it" because I didn't "need" to do it. But seeing what you've done it looks like it's a couple of hours and $0 which I always prefer .

    I must admit I like the ones you've found they give a few more options than mine, or Micky's.

    Rob (if you are listening) looks like we have quite a few option here for the "Hall of Wisdom".
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  12. #11
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    Hi Trevor,

    This issue of cable position can be expanded:

    The original position of bars and cables as placed in manufacture, meant that on my bike at least the throttle cable was snagged by the clutch cable on full lock (I cannot remember if it was left or right), causing a rise in revs. In the UK this rise in revs on full lock would cause an MOT failure - I was warned on this with my previous F650 by the MOT tester. It is surprising that the bike should be allowed to leave the factory with this defect.

    To change the clutch cable to what I think is the correct side you need to disconnect it at the engine end, pull the cable out and simply rethread it on the same side of the steering head as the clutch lever. It is a little fiddly but does not take long.


  13. #12
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    "Dunno if anyone interested, just fitted a set of SW-Motech handlebar risers to my F800ST" Anything you or anyone else does to their F800 is of [u]imense intere</u>st. Thanks for info because I have been thinking about this for wife.

  14. #13

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    In reality, while Trevor's handlebar risers look good, I didn't want my bars any higher than the 20mm, and I certainly didn't want them any further back!

    Just done a four day training stint, then a tour to Ireland, a thousand miles at least, and the SW-Motech bar risers are just great. At 5'10" they're just

    www.adventure.gs
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  15. #14
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    Could someone tell me what type of screw is holding the brake pipe to the handlebars? It doesn't seem to be torx,hex, allen, etc.
    Mine loosened during the riser install and leaks slightly.
    Thanks,
    Ben

  16. #15
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    And just to follow up I re-routed the clutch cable, took all of about 3mins! (plus 10 for removing the fairing bits and putting them back on). No idea why I did not do this ages ago.

    I'm now looking at the throttle cable. Anybody know where it goes to (other than the obvious, I mean where is the end)? i.e. Does it have to cross the head stock?
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  17. #16
    elchino's Avatar
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    Just got mine installed by the dealer while I was there for the 600 mile service.

    In my case the brake cable needed to be rerouted and also the clutch cable needed some adjustment.

    Very happy with the change as i now ride more upright
    Grey F800ST/V Stream/SW Motech Risers/Sargent Custom Seat/Hyperlites/Motolights/Zumo/Kaoko Throttle lock 

  18. #17
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    Does anybody recall the kind of Torx socket tool that is used to move the handlebars? I am going to buy the tool to move mine and the torx sockets all seem to be labelled as E25 and E50 and whatnot.

  19. #18
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    I know its a different approach, but I found by rotating my bars and readjusting the levers, my operating position is more comfortable and I'm probably in a better slipstream position.
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  20. #19
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    I'm seeking more advice on your MV riser... you say you had sore thumbs.. it that after installing ??? or on the std h/b ?.

    How have you found them since you posted your blog ?? would you still recommend them... and as a 5'2" female owner of a pink f800st... and blonde... do you recommend I have them installed ???? or could I do it myself... handy with screwdrivers etc.. thanks very much...

  21. #20
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    Wendy, I've got the MVs, took a couple of attempts to get them 'just right' which included several different angles as well as tweaking the clutch lever assembly etc. Hard to make recommendations without seeing a person as what works for one person might not work for someone else. I knew I wanted/needed some type of bar setbacks as I have right shoulder damage so need to ride as upright as possible. If you are reasonably handy with screwdrivers/wrenches you should have no issues. I didn't have to reroute any of the cables when I finally got the right angles on everything. Maybe some of your companion riders have various setups that you can try.......
    BTW I presume that the pink bike is not a factory issue..........

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  23. #21

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    I just got my set of MV risers. I wanted to get the dealer to install but they are backed up with a big Highway Patrol order and cannot get to me until Dec 6. Now I'm thinking about making the install my self. I've taken the handlebars loose and the cables do not come close to reaching.

    My biggest fear is how do I disconnect the brake line at the handle bar? I think that someone asked the question about what tool is required. Also, where and how do I bleed? Also, where did you re-route?

    Where does the throttle cable need to go? Does it disconnect by the thumb nut at the end of the cable at the throttle?

    Where do you disconnect the clutch cable at the engine? I would assume that I back off one or both the nuts on the bracket that's it's mounted into and simply slide the wire out of the little gray catch.

    Any help that anyone who has done this can give would be appreciated.
    2008 ST, Blue, OBC, TPM, ABS, Heated Grips, low suspension, low seat, Laminar lip, Coocase 36L, MV risers 

  24. #22
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    Hi there, I originally asked the same question (see above.) I was able to install the MV Risers myself with thanks to GUS - higher but closer. From F800Depot -"The brake hose is usually long enough. Generally the brake line is removed from the cable ties securing it down and taken out of the grommet hold it. Some do opt for dealer installation or longer brake lines however. When doing this be careful not to stretch or pinch the lines, and make 100% sure that there is no catching and free play for all lines." I read all posts and followed instructions.. after having to buy an 8mm BMW 6star socket to remove the original handlebars and then used a hex spanner to install the MV Risers. I have currently adjusted all the brakes and accelartor brackets to reach easier but I did temporary move the brake fluid reservoir and am using couple of cableties until I get the position perfect.. You can also buy the Lowered Master Cylinder kit if you want.
    Hopes this is of some help - Have attached my installed MV pictures. But also check out other threads/posts as there is plenty of other great advice outthere. Cheers
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    F800ST Customised PINK with L. Suspension & Extra Low seat, ABS, Comp, Alarm, MV Risers, GSG-Moto sliders, CalSci Lge W/screen, Chatterbox comms & Garmin Zumo 660. Barbie is so named as the B*itch has everything. Involved with Pink Ribbon Rides. 

  25. #23

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    Thanks BMW Barbie,

    I made the install myself but it took me about 4 hours. I had a problem re-routing the clutch cable and it was difficult going underneath the steering yoke with the brake reservoir assembly.
    After all was done, Dec 6, I took the bike to my local BMW dealer to install a new longer front brake cable (2" longer). I was concerned about how tight it was. I had already pinched it one time. They only charged me for the brake cable (approx $70.00) and 1 hour of labor($70.00) and it looks and fits much nicer. My install looks like your install except I turned the hex screws on the risers down. This made it more difficult in that I had to tighen the hex screws first (position check, reposition, etc... until in the correct position) before tighten into the original 8 mm torx.
    2008 ST, Blue, OBC, TPM, ABS, Heated Grips, low suspension, low seat, Laminar lip, Coocase 36L, MV risers 

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