HOW: Changing the Oil and Filter
by Published on 07-20-07 01:17 AM
I should start by saying I’m no mechanic.
Changing the oil a few months ago on the F800ST was the first oil change of my life on anything. Needless to say, I sought and took some advice before I started.
So apologies to the mechanics.
My only foray into oil changing will likely be at the mid-point between 10,000kms services. The good advice seems to be to “drop” the oil at this stage. Part of the 10,000kms services, of course, will be oil and filter change – so the mid-point “drop” will be all that’s needed by most riders.
I know some of you will do the oil change at the 10,000kms marks also. In this case a filter change will be necessary (as if you didn’t know!).
There may be some variation of opinion as to whether a filter change is needed at the mid-point “drop” (see below).
The first step is to acquire the following tools (a little initial capital investment may be needed):
1 A special oil filter removing tool (if you’re going to change the filter) (see picture 1).
2 A ratcheting socket tool with 19mm head (picture 2)
3 A ratcheting socket tool with a 24mm hex socket attached (picture 3) (Unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be an adapter that will allow the 24mm hex socket to go on the smaller socket ratcheting tool) NB SEE NOTE AT END
4 A sump oil tray (no pic: I used a has-been baking tray but it was a bit small)
5 A funnel of some sort (I used an old jug but it wasn’t easy)
6 The required amount of new oil of your preference: 3 litres.
7 A new oil filter from your local BMW dealer (optional – see below)
Note that Picture 3 shows a 12 point head but you may wish to use a 6 point: see RLG's advice in posting lower down in this thread.
Once you have assembled your tools and oil, take the bike for a ride to warm up the oil (10 kms should be enough). This ensures the contaminants get spread around the oil and drain out; and do not stay at the bottom of the sump.
The bike is best placed on its side stand on level ground to allow maximum drainage of the sump oil from the outlet (see picture 4). Place the sump oil tray under the sump outlet. The 24mm hex socket undoes the oil sump cap (see picture 5). Undo this cap. Let the good (sorry, bad) oil flow! Note that the outlet is a little to the side, so oil will flow accordingly - as bo_vk discovered (see posting lower down in this thread).
Now the filter: One opinion will say that it is counter productive to change the oil and leave a dirty filter with dirty oil inside it. So the filter should be changed with each oil change. A second opinion will say that the amount of dirty oil in the filter is minimal – and the oil won’t be all that dirty anyway, so pretty much all the benefits of new oil will be attained without a filter change at the mid-point “drop”. So, under this view, the oil filter change at the 10,000kms periods will be sufficient.
Some further views on this would be good. Does it make a difference, for example, if your use of the bike is predominantly highway travel or predominantly city commuting? I understand that commuting will dirty the oil much more quickly than highway travel. (I only do open highway travel – advantages of being retired).
If you change the filter, undo it with the ratcheting tool with 19mm head and special tool (see picture 6). Discard the old filter environmentally appropriately. Pour some new oil into the new filter so that it fills up (won’t take much). When fitting the new filter take some new oil and wet the gasket on the new filter (use your finger tip and smear some oil on the rubber gasket). Wipe the rim of the filter clean.
Hand tighten the filter + 1\2-3\4 turn with filter tool.
Q for the mechanics: Is there any benefit in draining the old filter of the old oil and priming it with new oil? The idea would be that you get rid of more contaminants and save some money by not having to buy a new filter.
Let the oil drain – let it run for a while so the last bits have time to drain back into the sump and out the outlet.
Important step: Replace the sump cap and tighten with the 24mm hex socket. I think there was a small gasket in the cap that might need to be changed at the 10,000kms marks. (mechanics, advice please on this!).
Pour in the new oil through the normal oil intake (see picture 7 – just in case you weren’t sure!). The manual says capacity is 3 litres “with filter change”. I guess this means it will be a little less if you don’t change the filter.
The manual also says “0.3 litres additional, if swing-arm shaft cover is removed”. That’s way outside my league!
Dispose of old oil in an environmentally appropriate way.
That should be it!
Wait for the mechanics to comment before you leap into it.
Petro
NB: As advised by another contributor to this topic, try to get a six point socket. The photo shows a twelve point one, but I have just (19/9/07) experienced the problem of the soft edges. Could not move the plug and have frayed the edges. Went and bought a sixpointer and got it undone relatively easily.
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Love my blue F800ST.
My next bike already is the F800GS
)
by Petro Published on 07-20-07 01:17 AM
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