the R & GT share quite a few parts, vs the ST/S & R/GT
if you use this site it tells you the OEM part number and what other bikes it fits too. Makes it easier to know what other bike parts to look for.
I wouldn't take any tools to remove wheels on the bike. Any puncture repair kit can be done with the wheel in place. Worst case you're calling roadside recovery anyway.
You can remove the front...
Start small and check things methodically before spending big bucks. Check each item and then check for stalling.
idle system? Does it idle ok; no hunting. Idle control valve - remove and clean, ICV...
All ST models are right way up.
I've had my forks apart to service them and can't think of what it is you're describing (on ST forks).
Is it part of number 7 in this diagram?
Which part is on the suspension Diagram? use this link to help us see what it is.
IIRC the R suspension is different to the ST/S?
I'll happily ride 400 miles in a day of pleasure riding. Riding for a long period of time isn't a far away thought for me.....but I don't do miles for miles sakes and sit on a motorway to get...
Most sizes are T25 for the fairings and most of the bits underneath it.
TBH there's not much you can repair on the side of the road with the ST as it is all controlled by modules.
Have you got a picture as to what you're referring to?
potentially it could be the ABS pulsing the brake as it thinks you're locking up (especially at lower speeds) check the ABS ring located on the wheel is clean and free of any dirt, mud or other items...
I doubt it will cause any issues. You should, however, start the bike (unless in gear) with the clutch engaged as the weight of the gearbox being spun helps to start the engine.
think I must have speed read through the post and missed that bit!
check the side stand switch. If it starts in neutral but not in gear that should be the source of the problem.
My question would be, for how much of that journey are you enjoying the bike as a bike? Subjective I know as we all use ours for different reasons, and they do different tasks.
I'd do an IB...
I'd say it's an interpretation of what has been put out there; which is to stay away from areas of mass congregation. Hence pubs, restaurants and other social premises being closed down.
I've always used fully synthetic, no issues at all.
Ethanol fuels are bad for rubber/plastics in the fuel systems and can cause issues. I'd keep an eye on your fuel system to make sure you don't start to develop any leaks or start to notice misfires.
from memory that looks right.
You need to get the Idle Actuator coded In/calibrated. BMW dealership or anyone with a GS911 can do this.
I did this and had the same issues, after getting it calibrated it worked fine.
glad to hear it wasn't too expensive in the end. It's one of those BMW foibles where the repair is easy/cheap, but getting to it is the biggest problem! The bolts being made of mild steel, and not...
you can reconnect it with the headlight in tact, mine did the same thing. Remove it entirely from the bike to gain access to the rear, and its a bit fiddly but do-able.
if you start the engine and hold it on the throttle is it fine, and holds the revs? If so it's the ICV (idle control valve) or associated parts.
The ST engine has an idle control valve & 2 vacuum...
do you mean opening it up? usually the lens is bonded to the body so you would need to heat it up in order to remove it.
What's the purpose for wanting to open it?>
I'd keep riding, and see if it gets better. Mine took probably about 500 miles in total to fully bed in. As you mention above that the frequency you use your brakes is low, especially for any real...