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Stopping the cold wind on the hands

12K views 39 replies 19 participants last post by  Richard230 
#1 ·
I've been doing a bit of fiddling with the ST to try and stop a bit of the wind chill on the gloves. It started off with a bit of stiff clear plastic, namely a box from around venetian blinds(high tech, this project), some wire(for stiffening) and some gaffer tape. What I was looking at was fairing a bit of the gap between the fairing and the windscreen. I had to take into consideration looks, clearance from levers at full lock and effectiveness.
Once I had a shape I was happy with I tried it for quite a while to see if it helped(and I was short of money to waste it on any good stuff). Earlier this year I shouted myself a bit of 3mm poly carbonate sheet for my birthday and set to work. As I had never worked with the stuff it was a bit of trial and error (and lots of bubbling [:(!]).
After making 3 sets I had a pair that I was happy with. I purchased some self-adhesive velco to hold them on and they work great. They don't keep all the water and moisture off, but they do stop a lot of the wind chill, and the heated grips are more effective.



They don't interfere with the levers at full lock (still got room for my big hands in BMW Allrounder gloves).


I left a small area open at the front to allow air to flow on the inside of the deflectors, stooping a lot of the runoff from blowing onto the gloves.


Even riding through heavy fog the gloves just get damp on the surface. Here's the gloves after 15 minutes of light misty rain.


The gloves still get wet in heavy rain, but this is mostly due to water blowing off the back of the deflectors and screen, but the wind chill is stopped.
I can ride with my summer mesh gloves down to 20C comfortably and, with the Allrounders, get to 10C without the heated grips. I'm happy with them.

Oh, it also keeps a lot of the turbulent wind coming around the back of the screen, but saying that, takes some of the wind pressure off the chest and puts a bit more on the wrists. Might have to talk Rose into some bar risers [:D].
 
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#4 ·
Well done, mate! They look almost production-ready. When can I put my order in?
3mm polycarbonate can be cold formed but as I guess you have already found out, it needs substantial clamping as in a sheetmetal folding device to keep it all straight. Hot bending is an artform, innit?
You are welcome anytime to check out the bar risers on my ST if you want to try-before-you-buy.
cheers,IanA
 
#6 ·
Ian,

I still have the other 2 sets I made sitting in the shed if you'd like to try a set. They're a little bit different shape but just about as effective. All you need to fit them is about $3 of Velcro from Clark Rubber for on the fairing and screen.
I even wind-tunnel tested them using the wind generator visible in the background of the one photo in the shed [:D].
The problem with cold forming is that it has to be bent in straight lines and as you'll notice in a couple of the photos, I had to create a compound curve to match the fairing curve at the base of the deflector. With heat forming, it is a fine line between not hot enough and too hot. When I had it clamped for a bend I would watch for the first indication of deformation of the surface and take the heat source away.

With my comprehensive testing regime (that is travelling at speed, holding the hand vertical, then moving it outwards or upwards and seeing where the wind pressure increases) the airflow is pushed out to about 1/2inch from the end of the bar weight and to a position just above the bend of the elbow. I noticed during the early stages that if the deflectors were much higher there would be increased buffeting around the helmet.

At least, at -1C, the heated grips are more effective than they were without the deflectors in place[8D]. Riding on these wet winter days are now a little bit more enjoyable [thumb][ride].
 
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#9 ·
I've been ticking away on the Word Association thread, but before that, the computer died and we were just waiting to have enough money to buy a new one.
Then I had to work out how to attach photos as Windows 8 wouldn't let me do it the usual way. So I had to learn how to use Picasa.

Other than that, just riding the ST to and from work every day, no matter what the weather throws at me.[:D]
 
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#10 ·
that is honestly BRILLIANT! looks professional and much more clever than barkbusters! much of the appeal of the R1200GS-or-Multistrada that I'm looking to buy soon is hand protection. the removable bit though is quite smart though, as during the summer windflow over the hands is a good thing.
 
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#18 ·
I used a blowtorch originally, but found it a bit uncontrollable and easy to bubble the polycarbonate.
I then dragged out my old trusty electric hot air gun (aka paint stripper) and it worked like a charm, although you still had to be careful not to bubble the poly carbonate.
 
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#19 ·
If someone is going to give this a go, it's best to make a pattern with cardboard or stiff clear plastic first, to get the bend lines and the location of contact with the fairing and screen.
The top two bends are fairly straight forward, done by clamping the PC between 2 pieces of steel or wood (allow approx. 3mm clearance from the bend line for the bend) and heat until the PC appears to be starting to deform. Place a hard flat sided item against the clamped section (I used a wooden concrete float) and gently bend the PC to the required angle (I bent a piece of fencing wire to the angle of the pattern while it was still on the bike to get it correct)

For the compound curve at the fairing, I trimmed back a 3x2 pine block to match the fairing curve. Once I had done the hard folds I heated the area of the compound curve and lightly bent it around some plastic stormwater pipe until it matched the curve of the wood block at the line where it would meet the fairing. I then clamped the PC to the curved wood block, heated the PC and used a small straight sided glass bottle ( mine was a Vegemite bottle, being an Aussie) to lightly bent the small area that attaches to the side of the fairing.

That makes it sound easy, but I used a lot of small sections of PC before getting it right ( and a few nearly burnt fingers).
 
#21 ·
An excellent write up Steve. I have played with PC for some time, your correct in using the hot air gun, I use mine on setting 2. To drill holes I use wood drills that have the point on, this provides a gradual hole and the flat part of the drill wont snatch the PC, it will easily bore the hole required (just for info on how to drill holes in PC).

As I have the Madstad screen your improvement wont work as the screen is fully adjustable, however, you have given me an idea tome to think about when the days start to rain etc here in merry ole England[:)].

Once again, good write up with photo's to boot, and keep up the posting on 'word association' even though some of it is at my own expense, serves me right[lol][lol].

Flook[8D]
 
#22 ·
I copied you advise and made a pair of deflectors for my GT. I think they work really well, I used a more malleable plastic PETG which is bendable cold and more workable. I havent found any downside in using this material.
at the time didnt have a heat gun so could only form flat bends, I have since purchased a cheap heat gun and intend to remove the deflectors to tweak the attachment plates to a curve to match the fairing of the bike.
Waiting for the rain and cold weather for a real test but looking good.
 
#23 ·
Roger,

I hope they work as good as mine do.
I have only got a pair of BMW Allrounder gloves, which aren't the best for freezing conditions.
We had a nice frosty morning recently when the ambient temp was struggling to get above 0C.
The finger tips were still a bit cold, but at least i could feel the warmth from the heated grips and the hands weren't aching by the time I got to work.
( Last year without the deflectors I thought the heated grips weren't working for a couple of days)
 
#26 ·
We won't believe that you have them until we see photographic evidence!Also it would help others to possibly see how they attach to the GT.
 
#27 ·
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Sky
Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Motorcycle helmet


you can make them out on these two pics, but to be honest I have teken them off as my hands got soaked when we got off the ferry in Spain so they dont work as well as I thought, and neitehr do my gloves which I found out are not waterproof even though the label says they are.

I am going to persist though, with a change to the design to make them simpler.
 
#30 ·
I have just checked out the first post by S&R, the wing thingy is attached to the screen, Roger has a Madstad screen, this screen being variable and not at a fixed angle. This would cause wind/rain to come between the two, all you need to do is check both out. John could you do a close up of your protector similar to what S&R have done.

I would be most interested in seeing close up the differences. Coming from a mechanical background and a bit in research and development side of things makes me curious.
 
#31 ·
Roger,

My gloves still get wet in medium to heavy rain, as stated in the bottom of my explanation, but the deflectors keep the wind off and lower the windchill on the gloves, thus allowing the heated grips to warm thje hands better.
I've actually been riding with my summer mesh gloves when, and if, the temp gets above 16C comfortably.

Flook,
I have been thinking of this with different screns and it may be possible to have the vertical section, that attachs to the screen, be supported by a brace from the fairing screw, on the top of the flat section.
If the vertical section was inside the outer edge of the after-market screen, but not attached to it, the screen would still be adjustable without affecting the deflector.
 
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