Where can I find switched power? F800GT? - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1

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    Hello everyone,

    Where can I find switched power on the F800GT? When starting this thread a few other threads were referenced. However they are not for the new 2013+ GT. I have not found in the manual any info of a "GPS" connection.

    My wife has the 2013 F800GT. We have a USB socket direct to the battery. Well, due to weather and forgetting to plug the bike in, it is now dead. So I need to locate a more permanent solution. I have a 2004 R1150RT. On that I just got switched power from the tail light. However I don't think I can do that on the F800 due to the Can-Bus. So please help me locate where I can get switched power. I would prefer not to cut wires on this bike. Bonus points for photos of project.



    Thank you all for your help.

    Snowy.

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    There is a cable taped up to the right of the battery that is not plugged into anything. This is the gps connector. It's where I and many others get switched power from.
    You'll have to undo the black tape holding it in place but it has a good bit of reach to it and no cutting needed just a positap connector to tie into it.

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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    C-Sharp's Avatar
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    I believe if you follow the thick cable from the positive lead down with your hand you'll feel the other one taped up to it.

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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  7. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Sharp View Post
    There is a cable taped up to the right of the battery that is not plugged into anything. This is the gps connector.
    Where? Do I need to remove the right panel? Or will it be visible once I extract the battery?



    Snowy

  8. #5
    C-Sharp's Avatar
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    You don't have to take out the battery. Loosening the right panel will help so you can see it. Just run your hand down the cable going down from the positive lead it should be there a few inches down.

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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    I wondered what that dangly bit was.

    A more permanent solution is an auxiliary fuse block supplied directly by the battery via a switched relay. The tail light wire will work as a trigger.

  10. #7
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    Exactly what I have except I use the GPS for switched power. Super convenient where it is.

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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    C-Sharp's Avatar
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    Reference thread for the fuzeblock install I have.
    https://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...laster-Install

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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    I agree

    If you need more power(usb and so) I would use Fuzeblock. I have done it and switched power is triggered by GPS connector.

    Happy riding

  13. #10
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    Be aware that some USB sockets can trick the chassis computer and the GPS lead will remain on. If that's the case, the safest way is to use the GPS lead to trigger a relay (or use the park/tail light to trigger if you want instant off rather than delayed).

    I found this with a recently installed USB adapter, but it only draws 10 mA (now total draw is 90 mA rather than 80 mA with the bike dormant) so it's not critical.
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    Touratech offers a plug and play solution. Easy peezy and works a treat! Take a look:

    http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/5...CAN-BUS-System

    Paul
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadscum View Post
    Touratech offers a plug and play solution. Easy peezy and works a treat! Take a look:

    http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/5...CAN-BUS-System

    Paul
    That is pretty nifty but vastly overpriced for what it is. IMO that should be no more than $5

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Sharp View Post
    That is pretty nifty but vastly overpriced for what it is. IMO that should be no more than $5
    The proprietary BMW Connector is expensive to start with. Cut the end off and wire in a SAE connector. You can wire the cut-off end to the mate and put it away with all your other take-offs. There are a million prewired items you can plug the sae connector into.
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    For that kind of money put in a proper fuse block, and avoid the CAN-BUS altogether.

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    Here's the FuzeBlock install thread: https://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...laster-Install
    It really is easy to do, if *I* can do it anyone can.

    For the switched power source I used the GPS connector (I had a BMW connector left over from another bike). All I have so far running off this is my GPS wiring and a heated jacket power cord. Still have 4 slots to fill up...
    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by blender View Post
    Here's the FuzeBlock install thread: https://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...laster-Install
    It really is easy to do, if *I* can do it anyone can.

    For the switched power source I used the GPS connector (I had a BMW connector left over from another bike). All I have so far running off this is my GPS wiring and a heated jacket power cord. Still have 4 slots to fill up...
    See post #8 above.

    Check out my ride videos at my YouTube channel.
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  20. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by C-Sharp View Post
    That is pretty nifty but vastly overpriced for what it is. IMO that should be no more than $5
    I ordered the BMW connector from my dealer for $15 (CDN) BMW part no: 83 30 0 413 585.

    Comes complete with third 'sense' wire.

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  22. #18

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    Thank you everyone for your input.

    Yesterday I was able to complete the install of a Fuzeblock. Clearly overkill for the needs right now, but we have a long term plan to use this more later. I must admit I was not sure what I was looking for by this "GPS plug", so I took a few more photos in hopes to show others what to look for.

    From the right side of the bike, with the right panel spread open you can see the GPS plug in the circle. The plug is just taped in place.


    There is a dust cap that will need to be removed, it is kept in place by this clip.


    I used the BMW plug suggested by jreicker PN#83 30 0 413 585, $20 US.
    The connector has three wires, each labeled, "1, 2, 3". I found wire 3 was switched with the bike key.



    Here is my final install.


    Snowy.

  23. #19
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    Quick question: why do you still have multiple connectors on the battery terminals? I ask because a big reason I installed a fuse block was to cut that down to one connection. I found that with two or more the battery terminals would vibrate loose. Not being critical; just curious.

    -dan
    Blue '09 F800 ST: ABS, toasty grips, trip computer, center stand, sport panniers, Ventura luggage, Valentine 1, Garmin zmo 660 RAM mounted, Sena 20S, P3 LED tail lights, Grip Pups, Centech AP-1 fuse panel, Go Cruise control, Shoei GT-Air, Gerbing's jacket liner, MRA X-creen Sport.

  24. #20

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    Good eye.

    The bottom eyelets are to an SAE plug that I extended 3 feet. It lives under the seat. Pop the seat up and we use that to plug into a battery tender. We also plan use that SAE plug to plug into a stop and go tire pump. I hope to never need to, but we can... The top eyelets go to the fuzeblock. Never had an issue with loose battery screws. One needs to torque them by hand, but not foolishly to much.

    Snowy.

  25. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Essnowyt View Post
    The bottom eyelets are to an SAE plug that I extended 3 feet.
    Simply attach that SAE line to one of the "unswitched" slots on the Fuzeblock. You can still run the BatteryTender and air pump of it and eliminate one more battery connection.
    Steve

  26. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roadscum View Post
    Touratech offers a plug and play solution. Easy peezy and works a treat! Take a look:

    http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/5...CAN-BUS-System

    Paul
    Where do you find the unused CAN-BUS? I looked thru an online GT manual but didn't see anything about that. And comments about 'on-board sockets' also were a little thin on useful content.

  27. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noel View Post
    Where do you find the unused CAN-BUS? I looked thru an online GT manual but didn't see anything about that. And comments about 'on-board sockets' also were a little thin on useful content.
    Scroll back up to post #18. Shows exactly what you're asking about. It's not documented in any of the manuals.
    Steve

  28. #24
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    We should really put this in the HoW it's been asked so many times and I'm always amazed people find this plug so hard to locate.

    BTW: The $5 solution is to use a pair of scissors, cut off the BMW plug and go buy a $5 one from an car accessory shop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor View Post
    We should really put this in the HoW it's been asked so many times and I'm always amazed people find this plug so hard to locate.

    BTW: The $5 solution is to use a pair of scissors, cut off the BMW plug and go buy a $5 one from an car accessory shop.
    True, but in fairness it is a "bitch" to find if you don't know where it is exactly located. I like your idea about cutting the expensive BMW plug and getting a simple SAE plug that fits just about everything?
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  30. #26
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    Jim,

    Just keep in mind that this circuit has very little capacity. It's fine for powering a GPS (common misunderstanding is that GPS units draw a lot of power; they don't) or triggering a relay for a Fuzeblock, etc., but cannot handle anything that draws much current. Just saying in case the SAE connector "tempts" you to plug in something beefy. No harm; CANbus will shut it down, but bottom line is it won't work properly.

    -dan
    Blue '09 F800 ST: ABS, toasty grips, trip computer, center stand, sport panniers, Ventura luggage, Valentine 1, Garmin zmo 660 RAM mounted, Sena 20S, P3 LED tail lights, Grip Pups, Centech AP-1 fuse panel, Go Cruise control, Shoei GT-Air, Gerbing's jacket liner, MRA X-creen Sport.

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    Quote Originally Posted by danham View Post
    Jim,

    Just keep in mind that this circuit has very little capacity. It's fine for powering a GPS (common misunderstanding is that GPS units draw a lot of power; they don't) or triggering a relay for a Fuzeblock, etc., but cannot handle anything that draws much current. Just saying in case the SAE connector "tempts" you to plug in something beefy. No harm; CANbus will shut it down, but bottom line is it won't work properly.

    -dan
    Thanks for the sage advice. My plan is to install a GPS directly to the battery for now. I want to add a connection for my Gerbins (spelling?) jacket liner and gloves, and some other electronics. I think I need to use a Fuzeblock for this and thanks to you use the "hidden" plug as a switch for the relay.

    I have been reading about GPS and am at a loss on what to buy. I have a Garmin Nuvi 2797 for my car and really like it. I was thinking about the 2597 same as the 2797 but with a 5 inch screen. Not a motorcycle specific GPS though. Once I suss which one to buy, then I have to determine how to mount it so it doesn't block the instrument cluster. Any thoughts or ideas you have would be appreciated.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJL View Post
    I have been reading about GPS and am at a loss on what to buy. Any thoughts or ideas you have would be appreciated.
    Some experiences on this thread https://f800riders.org/forum/showthre...t-nav-solution

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    Jim,

    I'm a long-time Garmin user and have owned or tested for review a bunch of their products. But I fault them for having a very confusing product lineup, making it hard to choose between models.

    Your first big decision is waterproof or not. I went "not" for a season, using my nuvi 760 with a waterproof case. it was not a great idea. The case would fog up and the GPS would occasionally overheat. I bought a zumo 660 and love it, but for you that might not be a good choice as it is nearing the end of its model life and there are questions emerging about whether it is still supported by Basecamp, Garmin's PC mapping and route planning program.

    I would look at the zumo 590 or its closest cousin, the BMW Navigator V if your budget can handle the motorcycle-specific models. If not, my nuvi experience is a tad out of date, so you might want to drop in on a forum I help moderate and get some opinions there: http://www.gpspassion.com/forumsen/f...p?FORUM_ID=172

    As for keeping your view of the dash clear, in photos my zumo looks like it blocks the instruments. In riding position it doesn't. A good RAM mount allows you to experiment.

    Click image for larger version.

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    -dan
    Blue '09 F800 ST: ABS, toasty grips, trip computer, center stand, sport panniers, Ventura luggage, Valentine 1, Garmin zmo 660 RAM mounted, Sena 20S, P3 LED tail lights, Grip Pups, Centech AP-1 fuse panel, Go Cruise control, Shoei GT-Air, Gerbing's jacket liner, MRA X-creen Sport.

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  36. #30
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    I would definitely recommend one of the motorbike specific models, mainly for the resistance to weather. I used the Zumo 550 previously and loved it. I'm kicking myself for selling it now, as Holly's older Garmin is dying a slow death. I now have the BMW Nav IV which came on my GS. Very similar to the Zumo in function. Both are very glove friendly. I agree with Jim's decision to sun a Fuze Block or PDM60 to allow for switched power and multiple outlets for other devices. I used the GPS accessory plug to run my Zumo "switched" on my ST. It was straight forward to wire and was about the neatest way to connect the GPS.

    I am on the lookout for another good used GPS for Holly, but I have noted that the Garmin 390 looks really nice. Spendy though.

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  38. #31
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    Newbie wants it thank every poster on this thread for your invaluable advice.

    Now I know why my admore lighting kit for my givi e370 case flickers when blue 12 volt lead is attached to tail light wire. Hoping simple attachment to gps works.

    Later, I'll look into a relay triggered fuse box for enhanced electrical applications.


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    ...I've been through alot of GPS units and made all the mistakes.
    In the end the Garmin Montana is the most rugged, easiest to use, and outdoor/moto specific unit out there.
    I use mine on both my dualsport and roadbike.
    ...another of My2Sense


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    No gps dongle found. Previous owner hooked up fused hot lead from battery to iphone dock.

    Battery is now out. Cannot find switched power dongle. There is an open unswitched power dongle available top of battery.
    What can I do? Pics attached. Not sure if they adequately explains dilemma.

    do?Click image for larger version.

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    Click image for larger version.

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    BMW F800GT dealer sells an adapter for accessory socket which is for switched power. Click image for larger version.

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    Sounds right to you guys?




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    wish I could help ya Gary, but I'm new to the GT. I thought all the GTs had the GPS plug down inside the right side cover.
    You sure it's not there. BMW sells the plug/extension that you can tap into.
    That or try a headlight wire.
    The socket may be switched but cannot confirm that.

    The plug is right side batter down about 6". But you'd need to add the BMW dongle/plug to bring it up and tap into it easier.

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  45. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryW View Post
    BMW F800GT dealer sells an adapter for accessory socket which is for switched power. Click image for larger version.

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ID:	104193

    Sounds right to you guys?[/url]
    You can do that but I'd recommend against it.
    I did that at first and it just gets messy and is annoying having an adapter sticking out of that port all the time and running the wire up to the bars is annoying from there.
    I can't imagine that the gps connector isn't there but maybe got tucked away somewhere or cut by the previous owner. By default it's just taped to the main positive lead as pictured in post #18 above.

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    I looked for gps connector high and low. With battery out, I had a full view of compartment.

    I am really frustrated today. I spent $14 on adapter for auxiliary port, hooked up my lights, and they still flicker, and one light is not bright. When the ignition key was turned off, the lights became bright and steady before power turned off.

    Guess direct switched power connection is not going work.

    Any ideas, because I am stumped


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  47. #38
    danham's Avatar
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    Gary,

    It sounds like you may have several issues. To sort this out, can you temporarily connect your kit to the battery, directly? If the lights still flicker or one is dim, then my guess from many miles away is that you have a ground problem or a faulty controller (if your Admore kit includes the turn signal, flashing brake light stuff).

    If the kit works perfectly when connected directly, then we can start looking for bike problems.

    -dan
    Blue '09 F800 ST: ABS, toasty grips, trip computer, center stand, sport panniers, Ventura luggage, Valentine 1, Garmin zmo 660 RAM mounted, Sena 20S, P3 LED tail lights, Grip Pups, Centech AP-1 fuse panel, Go Cruise control, Shoei GT-Air, Gerbing's jacket liner, MRA X-creen Sport.

  48. #39
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    What are you doing exactly?
    Hooking up auxilary lights?
    If so, the switched wire is to signal the relay, not for powering the lights.
    If it is lights, you need a relay, a switch, and lights.
    Lights wired from the relay.
    Switch wired from the relay
    Relay wired (powered) from the battery
    Let us know...

  49. #40
    danham's Avatar
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    It appears he is trying to hook up this rear lighting kit:

    http://admorelighting.com/store/inde...product_id=154

    There isn't much info on the Admore site, but my guess is you'd need to connect the kit's controller to several bike circuits (+12v, +12v switched, ground, brake light, turn signals), which is why i suggested first seeing if the plain old tail lights work direct to the battery.

    -dan
    Blue '09 F800 ST: ABS, toasty grips, trip computer, center stand, sport panniers, Ventura luggage, Valentine 1, Garmin zmo 660 RAM mounted, Sena 20S, P3 LED tail lights, Grip Pups, Centech AP-1 fuse panel, Go Cruise control, Shoei GT-Air, Gerbing's jacket liner, MRA X-creen Sport.

  50. #41
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    Hmm, my trouble shooting skills are limited as I am not familiar with can bus technology.

    I had assumed if I identified a switched power source, then I would not require a relay to trigger a power source.

    The previous poster is correct in his assertion that I should attempt a direct connection to positive battery.

    I will be away for 6 days. Upon my return, I will continue troubleshooting with a direct connection to battery.

    I do not suspect a ground issue as my auxiliary givi case lighting is grounded to a brown wire.


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  51. #42
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    Argh! Admore reply :

    Hello Gary,

    We have a very small number of other BMW customers who have reported this same flicker problem. Our kit is interpreting what's on the CanBus brake line as a series of quick, false brake indications. As BMW continues to make changes to their electrical system we are working to keep up. Our design team is working on a solution to this problem with our kits on certain year/model BMWs. It may take a few weeks but we hope to have a solution identified as soon as possible. We apologize and thank you in advance for your patience.


    Sound right?


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  52. #43
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    Gary, the switched power cable is there, but my guess is that the previous owner cut the cloth tape holding it to the + battery cable. Remove the throttle side plastic panel and it should be there. A simple purchase of the BMW cable PN#83 30 0 413 585 and follow the wiring diagram elegantly described in post # 18 above should put you out of your misery. I strongly encourage a Fuze Block or PDM60. A small investment in electrical security.

  53. #44
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    This weird
    I have the BMW GPS extension
    Port 3 is 12+ volts whether the key is on or not...
    Like, not switched...

  54. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
    This weird
    I have the BMW GPS extension
    Port 3 is 12+ volts whether the key is on or not...
    Like, not switched...
    From the factory, it stays on for a brief period of time - maybe 2 minutes? after the key is turned off. As does the aux port on the side.
    Courtney in Seattle
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  55. #46
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    I'm looking for brackets to mount some PIAA1100X lights.
    Where are you guys mounting aux lights?

  56. #47
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    Okay, the terminal 15, which is power after ignition exist only between ignition switch, DME (digital engine electronics) and ZFE (central chassis electronics). It's green wire. On ignition it's pin 3, DME is pin 34 connection 2 and ZFE is pin 26 connection J1. So that's the only way to hook up all stuff after ignition. Ignition switch is fed straight from battery. I still don't understand why BMW decided to get rid of all fuses.

    Can bus High wire white/black:
    X9190 Plug connection, ABS control unit, PIN12
    X9630 Plug connection 2, DME control unit, PIN53
    X9700 Plug connection DWA/RDC, PIN6
    X9001 Plug connection, instrument cluster control unit, PIN1
    X9270 Plug connection J1 ZFE, PIN17

    Can bus Low wire white/brown:
    X9190 Plug connection, ABS control unit, PIN11
    X9630 Plug connection 2, DME control unit, PIN52
    X9700 Plug connection DWA/RDC, PIN5
    X9001 Plug connection, instrument cluster control unit, PIN2
    X9270 Plug connection J1 ZFE, PIN16

    both wires are tangled.

    Just please note: messing with CAN can hurt your bike and repair can be expensive. Terminal 15 is not protected - be careful with connections. If you short wires - you can burn your bike!

    I hope it helped.

  57. #48
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    Click image for larger version.

Name:	Photo Aug 12, 2 07 26 PM.jpg
Views:	446
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ID:	106697OK folks. You are right! I do have a switched power dongle, but it is not located where you say it is. It is located on top of the battery. See pic.

    However, my Ardmore lighting wiring from my top case lighting is still flickering. Tech support says that it might be my brake light connection doing this, but I disconnected the brakelight wire (red), and my case lights still flicker. When the ignition key is turned off, the flickering stops, during this "dead period" where the 12 volt supply is still connected for a few minutes.

    Any ideas?
    2013 F800GT & 2013 F800GS

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  58. #49
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    Gary,

    Have you tried what I suggested: temporarily hook everything up direct to the battery, as if you wanted your lights on all the time? This eliminates CANbus altogether and allows you to rule out obvious faults such as a bad Ardmore controller or faulty ground.

    -dan
    Blue '09 F800 ST: ABS, toasty grips, trip computer, center stand, sport panniers, Ventura luggage, Valentine 1, Garmin zmo 660 RAM mounted, Sena 20S, P3 LED tail lights, Grip Pups, Centech AP-1 fuse panel, Go Cruise control, Shoei GT-Air, Gerbing's jacket liner, MRA X-creen Sport.

  59. #50
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    Admore lighting has wires from its controller that individually go to 12 volt supplies for turn signals and tail light. The fact that light works perfectly after ig key is turned off tells me that I probably have a canbus issue. Not positive. I have hooked up power cable for admore unit to hot post of battery with no discernible difference.

    Also, my rear right turn signal goes on when brakes are applied, but my left turn signal does not. This was the case before admore lighting was hooked up. Interesting that the left lights on the top box are flickering , not the right. This might be coincidental.


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