Where can I find switched power on the F800GT? When starting this thread a few other threads were referenced. However they are not for the new 2013+ GT. I have not found in the manual any info of a "GPS" connection.
My wife has the 2013 F800GT. We have a USB socket direct to the battery. Well, due to weather and forgetting to plug the bike in, it is now dead. So I need to locate a more permanent solution. I have a 2004 R1150RT. On that I just got switched power from the tail light. However I don't think I can do that on the F800 due to the Can-Bus. So please help me locate where I can get switched power. I would prefer not to cut wires on this bike. Bonus points for photos of project.
There is a cable taped up to the right of the battery that is not plugged into anything. This is the gps connector. It's where I and many others get switched power from.
You'll have to undo the black tape holding it in place but it has a good bit of reach to it and no cutting needed just a positap connector to tie into it.
You don't have to take out the battery. Loosening the right panel will help so you can see it. Just run your hand down the cable going down from the positive lead it should be there a few inches down.
A more permanent solution is an auxiliary fuse block supplied directly by the battery via a switched relay. The tail light wire will work as a trigger.
Be aware that some USB sockets can trick the chassis computer and the GPS lead will remain on. If that's the case, the safest way is to use the GPS lead to trigger a relay (or use the park/tail light to trigger if you want instant off rather than delayed).
I found this with a recently installed USB adapter, but it only draws 10 mA (now total draw is 90 mA rather than 80 mA with the bike dormant) so it's not critical.
For the switched power source I used the GPS connector (I had a BMW connector left over from another bike). All I have so far running off this is my GPS wiring and a heated jacket power cord. Still have 4 slots to fill up...
Yesterday I was able to complete the install of a Fuzeblock. Clearly overkill for the needs right now, but we have a long term plan to use this more later. I must admit I was not sure what I was looking for by this "GPS plug", so I took a few more photos in hopes to show others what to look for.
From the right side of the bike, with the right panel spread open you can see the GPS plug in the circle. The plug is just taped in place.
There is a dust cap that will need to be removed, it is kept in place by this clip.
I used the BMW plug suggested by jreicker PN#83 30 0 413 585, $20 US.
The connector has three wires, each labeled, "1, 2, 3". I found wire 3 was switched with the bike key.
Quick question: why do you still have multiple connectors on the battery terminals? I ask because a big reason I installed a fuse block was to cut that down to one connection. I found that with two or more the battery terminals would vibrate loose. Not being critical; just curious.
The bottom eyelets are to an SAE plug that I extended 3 feet. It lives under the seat. Pop the seat up and we use that to plug into a battery tender. We also plan use that SAE plug to plug into a stop and go tire pump. I hope to never need to, but we can... The top eyelets go to the fuzeblock. Never had an issue with loose battery screws. One needs to torque them by hand, but not foolishly to much.
Simply attach that SAE line to one of the "unswitched" slots on the Fuzeblock. You can still run the BatteryTender and air pump of it and eliminate one more battery connection.
True, but in fairness it is a "bitch" to find if you don't know where it is exactly located. I like your idea about cutting the expensive BMW plug and getting a simple SAE plug that fits just about everything?
Just keep in mind that this circuit has very little capacity. It's fine for powering a GPS (common misunderstanding is that GPS units draw a lot of power; they don't) or triggering a relay for a Fuzeblock, etc., but cannot handle anything that draws much current. Just saying in case the SAE connector "tempts" you to plug in something beefy. No harm; CANbus will shut it down, but bottom line is it won't work properly.
Thanks for the sage advice. My plan is to install a GPS directly to the battery for now. I want to add a connection for my Gerbins (spelling?) jacket liner and gloves, and some other electronics. I think I need to use a Fuzeblock for this and thanks to you use the "hidden" plug as a switch for the relay.
I have been reading about GPS and am at a loss on what to buy. I have a Garmin Nuvi 2797 for my car and really like it. I was thinking about the 2597 same as the 2797 but with a 5 inch screen. Not a motorcycle specific GPS though. Once I suss which one to buy, then I have to determine how to mount it so it doesn't block the instrument cluster. Any thoughts or ideas you have would be appreciated.
I'm a long-time Garmin user and have owned or tested for review a bunch of their products. But I fault them for having a very confusing product lineup, making it hard to choose between models.
Your first big decision is waterproof or not. I went "not" for a season, using my nuvi 760 with a waterproof case. it was not a great idea. The case would fog up and the GPS would occasionally overheat. I bought a zumo 660 and love it, but for you that might not be a good choice as it is nearing the end of its model life and there are questions emerging about whether it is still supported by Basecamp, Garmin's PC mapping and route planning program.
I would look at the zumo 590 or its closest cousin, the BMW Navigator V if your budget can handle the motorcycle-specific models. If not, my nuvi experience is a tad out of date, so you might want to drop in on a forum I help moderate and get some opinions there: http://www.gpspassion.com/forumsen/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=172
As for keeping your view of the dash clear, in photos my zumo looks like it blocks the instruments. In riding position it doesn't. A good RAM mount allows you to experiment.
I would definitely recommend one of the motorbike specific models, mainly for the resistance to weather. I used the Zumo 550 previously and loved it. I'm kicking myself for selling it now, as Holly's older Garmin is dying a slow death. I now have the BMW Nav IV which came on my GS. Very similar to the Zumo in function. Both are very glove friendly. I agree with Jim's decision to sun a Fuze Block or PDM60 to allow for switched power and multiple outlets for other devices. I used the GPS accessory plug to run my Zumo "switched" on my ST. It was straight forward to wire and was about the neatest way to connect the GPS.
I am on the lookout for another good used GPS for Holly, but I have noted that the Garmin 390 looks really nice. Spendy though.
Newbie wants it thank every poster on this thread for your invaluable advice.
Now I know why my admore lighting kit for my givi e370 case flickers when blue 12 volt lead is attached to tail light wire. Hoping simple attachment to gps works.
Later, I'll look into a relay triggered fuse box for enhanced electrical applications.
...I've been through alot of GPS units and made all the mistakes.
In the end the Garmin Montana is the most rugged, easiest to use, and outdoor/moto specific unit out there.
I use mine on both my dualsport and roadbike.
...another of My2Sense
No gps dongle found. Previous owner hooked up fused hot lead from battery to iphone dock.
Battery is now out. Cannot find switched power dongle. There is an open unswitched power dongle available top of battery.
What can I do? Pics attached. Not sure if they adequately explains dilemma.
You can do that but I'd recommend against it.
I did that at first and it just gets messy and is annoying having an adapter sticking out of that port all the time and running the wire up to the bars is annoying from there.
I can't imagine that the gps connector isn't there but maybe got tucked away somewhere or cut by the previous owner. By default it's just taped to the main positive lead as pictured in post #18 above.
wish I could help ya Gary, but I'm new to the GT. I thought all the GTs had the GPS plug down inside the right side cover.
You sure it's not there. BMW sells the plug/extension that you can tap into.
That or try a headlight wire.
The socket may be switched but cannot confirm that.
The plug is right side batter down about 6". But you'd need to add the BMW dongle/plug to bring it up and tap into it easier.
I looked for gps connector high and low. With battery out, I had a full view of compartment.
I am really frustrated today. I spent $14 on adapter for auxiliary port, hooked up my lights, and they still flicker, and one light is not bright. When the ignition key was turned off, the lights became bright and steady before power turned off.
Guess direct switched power connection is not going work.
It sounds like you may have several issues. To sort this out, can you temporarily connect your kit to the battery, directly? If the lights still flicker or one is dim, then my guess from many miles away is that you have a ground problem or a faulty controller (if your Admore kit includes the turn signal, flashing brake light stuff).
If the kit works perfectly when connected directly, then we can start looking for bike problems.
-dan
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