Michelin Road 5 introduced - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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    Here is the latest tire from Michelin that appears to supersede the Pilot Road 4. No word about pricing and no mention of projected mileage, but lots of amazing hype:
    http://www.motorcycle.com/features/m...ry-1-2018.html
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    Everyone can thank me for this new Michelin tire! I bought two sets of Dunlop Roadsmart III’s during the $100 rebate. So I’m fully “tired” for the next year before shopping for tires again.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

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    Don't worry, Dave, they'll probably have the 6 out by then.
    As of Mon, 1st Feb 2016- ;
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    Just put them on ,always had good feedback with the pilot line.i expect these to no different .

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    So - is the rule of thumb that you can match only odd or even versions of a tire? I need a new rear tire to match a Pilot Road 3 front that has another 3-5k miles' lifespan.

    Or does the sum of the tire editions need to be prime number, in which case I'll find a new old stock Road 4 rear?

    And if using mismatched version, will siping in opposite directions prevent the bike from moving at all?!
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    The total number of tires should be an even number.

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    Well, it is time to replace my front tire (Michelin PR4). It has 12,900 miles on it with remaining tread at the wear marks.

    These miles are a 60/40 mix (Hwy/Twisty)! That said, I've decided to "stick" with Michelin and try the new Road 5. I'll update this thread with my performance findings as miles accumulate.

    Price between the Road 5 and PR4 are about the same.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm really surprised that your front tire wore out that soon. Usually, the rear tire on my bikes has worn out, and the front tire gets replaced at the same time.

    How much air pressure do you put in your tires?

    Chris
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    The front tires on all of my motorcycles that use radial tires seem to wear out before the rear tires. I rack that up to the front tire having about 50% less tread depth when new, compared with the rear tire. Also, rear tires are now being made with dual-compound tread with typically harder rubber in the center than the front tire, which uses softer rubber and does not have a dual compound tread.

    Regarding the Michelin Road 5: Magazine reviews say they like the tire's performance, but also say that Michelin is not claiming any improvement in mileage over the PR4.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundog52 View Post
    Well, it is time to replace my front tire (Michelin PR4). It has 12,900 miles on it with remaining tread at the wear marks.

    These miles are a 60/40 mix (Hwy/Twisty)! That said, I've decided to "stick" with Michelin and try the new Road 5. I'll update this thread with my performance findings as miles accumulate.

    Price between the Road 5 and PR4 are about the same.
    You are replacing that tire? Heck, it has lots of life left!

    Site won’t accept photos from my iPad.
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    Quote Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
    You are replacing that tire? Heck, it has lots of life left!

    Site won’t accept photos from my iPad.
    Well I would be replacing it! I consider wear rates of front and rear tyres are at least affected by different riding styles. High acceleration rates will wear the rear tyre and heavy front wheel braking reduces the life of front tyres. Conventionally it used to be normal to wear two rear tyres to one front tyre, but on my previous bike (CBF1000) my PR4s were replaced together both times. I don't know how my current PR4s wear pattern on my GT will be, but I'll be trying the R5s when the time comes - so will be interested in members exeriences.

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    So I have a question. How on a rear tire with no center tread like the Road 5, do you tell when the center is worn to the point of replacing it? I'm serious. Because what I'm seeing is the wear bars are off on the side of the tire where it doesn't wear nearly as much.

    I have this fear that I'll be like the guy who I saw a couple weeks ago in Idaho who walked around his bike and saw about an inch and a half of cord showing. He had left Seattle thinking he had enough tread to make it to Idaho and back, but he barely had enough tread to get to the hotel.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    I'm really surprised that your front tire wore out that soon. Usually, the rear tire on my bikes has worn out, and the front tire gets replaced at the same time.

    How much air pressure do you put in your tires?

    Chris
    I use the recommended 36F42R psi. I forgot to mention that my rear was replace 8 mo ago with 9500 miles on it.
    See attached New/Old comparison of PR4s. BTW, I thought 12.9K mi on the front was typical of my riding style.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundog52 View Post
    ... I forgot to mention that my rear was replace 8 mo ago with 9500 miles on it...
    I made a wrong assumption. It was that the rear was replaced at the same time as the front, and that the front was the tire that wore more necessitating the change. My fault.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sundog52 View Post
    ...BTW, I thought 12.9K mi on the front was typical of my riding style.
    Whatever mileage you get on your tires, is "typical of (your) riding style". I got 20,000 miles on my PR4s...but on a different bike and on different roads. The only comparison that really matters, is what you get from one set of tires to another.


    I am sitting in a bit of a quandry, second-guessing myself. I have the Dunlop Roadsmart IIIs on mine. I'm at 8000 miles on them now and they look only about half worn. Do I change them before a long trip to Canada...or after? If I was only taking long day trips, I'd definitely leave them on. But being gone for two weeks...

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    So I have a question. How on a rear tire with no center tread like the Road 5, do you tell when the center is worn to the point of replacing it? I'm serious. Because what I'm seeing is the wear bars are off on the side of the tire where it doesn't wear nearly as much.
    Don’t worry about it. There is a good bit of rubber under the tread before cords. The color of the rubber changes before reaching cords, but you have to look.

    Wear bars are a legal fiction of safety. Can’t legislate common sense we have Radar guns to write tickets for 56 mph in 55 zones. Because clearly 56 is wreckless and dangerous but 55 is safe under all condition! Or, not, but how does one codify into law?

    Consider this: there is no tread in the center of the rear Road 5. If tread was such an important component of safety then how can a state of the art premium tire promoted for exceptional wet traction not have tread in the center? There must be something wrong with the tread narrative. There must be other factors.

    I will ride street motorcycle tires until all tread is gone. If rubber changes color I will not ride that tire again but rarely get that far. Hesitate to venture out on wet roads when wear bars are showing, but often find myself out in wet with tires near EOL.

    This winter my nice car’s tires were 4/32” and 2/32”. So I took the other car with newer tires on 1000 mile week. Rain and snow, it was the right choice. New tires on the nice car now.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

  24. #16
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    I don't think this guy saw the color of the rubber change.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    He left home in Seattle and went to a rally in Idaho, just over the border. When he left home, he thought he had enough tread to make it both ways. We went up to lunch at Elk City and the area the cords were showing was about 1.5 inches. This is what it looked like when he got back to the motel. It was a Saturday afternoon...and luckily a tire was found and some local riders helped get the new tire on. If they hadn't found a new tire, he'd have been sitting in the motel till Tuesday, and probably have to get the bike towed to Lewiston (@65 miles) to get changed.

    I'm just afraid of this happening to me. And with the close call I had last summer...I'm sure it would.

    Chris
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    Have run PR2’s PR3’s and PR4’s. Bikes wer Yamaha FZ6 and Honda CBR 600RR. Fronts lasted twice as long as rears. Just purchased a used 2016 F800GT with a New PR4 GT on front and a Metzler Z8 on the rear. Only 4,800 miles. The Metzler is flat in the center but lots of tread left. Contemplating putting a PR5 on the rear instead of matching the front with a PR4GT. I like to corner my bikes aggressively but no track days for the F800GT. Have contemplated buying a set of PR5’s. I can see PR4GT on heavier bikes but wonder about the F800GT being too light to properly flex the tire when cornering. Guess if it’s loaded for touring with 2 up that it would be a good tire but I don’t expect to do 2up touring.

    What do you think?

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    Just a personal opinion, but I'd think the PR4 GT is too stiff for the front, or rear. The manufacturer's website will give you their recommendation. I had the PR4s on a Honda NT700V that weighed about 100 lbs more. The non-GT version was recommended for it, so I would think you'd go with the non-GT tires there too.

    When I had Metzeler Roadtec 01 tires on the GT, I bought the non-GT version...and found out later that Metzeler recommends the GT version for the rear. I think based on that, the GT or heavyweight version of tires is both for weight and/or the amount of torque or twisting a bike can put on the rear tire.

    While my first thoughts are to get a non-GT tire in the front...does it affect the ride or handling? If not, save some money. If it does, then change it.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post

    Click image for larger version. 

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    He left home in Seattle and went to a rally in Idaho, just over the border. When he left home, he thought he had enough tread to make it both ways. We went up to lunch at Elk City and the area the cords were showing was about 1.5 inches. This is what it looked like when he got back to the motel. It was a Saturday afternoon...and luckily a tire was found and some local riders helped get the new tire on. If they hadn't found a new tire, he'd have been sitting in the motel till Tuesday, and probably have to get the bike towed to Lewiston (@65 miles) to get changed.
    That's a strange tire wear pattern, suggests imbalance or tire mfr problem.

    My avatar is worn rear tire with similar lucky replacement on a Memorial Day weekend, when tread wear accelerated beyond my best guess. NorCal smaller town motorsports shop had a suitable replacement on the rack, but just one, and we stumbled into town on Saturday afternoon.

    FWIW per original thread topic: just ordered set of Road 5s for my K bike. Will report back re: opinion following 5k miles of trips planned for the summer on that bike.
    Now: R1150R Rockster, F800S, S1000R, K1300S
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    IDK.... Is the risk versus reward worth it?

    Running down so far past the wear marker gives you what... maybe another 10 or 15 percent of usage? (Assumes a 10,000km life, so an extra 1000kms.)That's about a $20 value. What's the cost if the tire blows while riding? Or, needs replacing mid-trip?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sweatmark View Post
    That's a strange tire wear pattern, suggests imbalance or tire mfr problem.

    ...FWIW per original thread topic: just ordered set of Road 5s for my K bike. Will report back re: opinion following 5k miles of trips planned for the summer on that bike.
    Mark, the wear pattern looks weird because the tire wasn't vertical; it was leaning against a post. When on the bike, it looked normal...though something I wouldn't want to see on my own bike.

    Andrew, if your tire wears in the center like the tire in Mark's avatar...how will you know when it needs replacing before the cords show? I'm hoping someone has an answer to that.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    Just a personal opinion, but I'd think the PR4 GT is too stiff for the front, or rear. The manufacturer's website will give you their recommendation. I had the PR4s on a Honda NT700V that weighed about 100 lbs more. The non-GT version was recommended for it, so I would think you'd go with the non-GT tires there too.

    When I had Metzeler Roadtec 01 tires on the GT, I bought the non-GT version...and found out later that Metzeler recommends the GT version for the rear. I think based on that, the GT or heavyweight version of tires is both for weight and/or the amount of torque or twisting a bike can put on the rear tire.

    While my first thoughts are to get a non-GT tire in the front...does it affect the ride or handling? If not, save some money. If it does, then change it.

    Chris
    Agreed ref GT tyre too stiff. They are for much heavier bikes - stick with 'ordinary' PR4s/Road 5s.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    I don't think this guy saw the color of the rubber change.
    You can see the different colors around the hole.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Runmyownlife View Post
    IDK.... Is the risk versus reward worth it?

    Running down so far past the wear marker gives you what... maybe another 10 or 15 percent of usage? (Assumes a 10,000km life, so an extra 1000kms.)That's about a $20 value. What's the cost if the tire blows while riding? Or, needs replacing mid-trip?
    Clearly everyone should replace tires before they get half way to the wear bars! How much is your life worth! I will gladly take your dangerous takeoffs off your hands!

    With logic like this I wonder how one rationalizes operation of a motorcycle having to keep it in "only one lane". Death awaits only 10' to either side.

    The answer is that one is responsible for knowing one's vehicle and its limits. For knowing tire wear and wear rates. Check these things every ride, if you do then you will see the progress down to the wear bars, and down through the wear bars. I stop before tread rubber turns into cord rubber, which occurs before cords appear. There may be another 300 miles before cord rubber, but I've gotten enough out of the tire. Usually 1500 miles after the wear bars start appearing. Way too much tire remaining to throw away.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

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    I just got back from a 5 days trip riding in KY/TN/NC/GA.....and I left with the factory Metzler tire on the bike, as it looked to have plenty of tread left....just had a bit of a flat spot down the center as I suspect the original owner did a lot of highway riding.

    When I got to Tellico Plains it was about 560 miles after I left, and I was down to the casing rubber, and I made it to the hotel in Robinsville, NC without issue. I worried all night about where I was going to get a tire without some hack scratching my wheel. Luckily Wheeler's Performance is just a couple miles out of Robinsville on RT 129, and he is the "real deal". He has 400 tires in stock and changes more than 1,000 tires in a year. He had a "no touch" machine for changing tires and an electronic balancer. He got me fixed up with a new Michelin Road 5 for $273 mounted and balanced (I took the wheel off for him). His shop looks a bit messy - but he knows what he is doing and he was very careful with my wheel.
    https://www.wheelersperformance.com/


    I really like this tire, it sticks like glue and some folks can get 12,000 - 15,000 miles out of it (I likely won't as I ride to "festive" to get high tire mileage). The bike handled noticeably better when it had a tire with a round profile....the flat center seemed to make the bike a little sluggish when entering the turn.

    The first photo is my rear tire before I left - it looked like it was OK when I left.
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  36. #26
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    Your old rear tire is why I'm really leery of using a tire with no center tread...yet most of the new tires are going that way. One exception being the Dunlop Roadsmart III.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The center will wear through to the cords in no time at all...yet the tread wear indicator will show that you have plenty of tread left.

    Chris
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    Chris (Daboo)

    I fully understand your concern......as the attached photo shows, my rear tire looked OK to me before I left. I was only going to be gone 5 days, the trip down and back was about 380 miles each way, and the other three days in the mountains we seem to ride around 250 miles a day. I really didn't have any concerns the tire would make for the 1,500 miles I was likely going to ride as the tread grooves seemed to show there was rubber left - and my goal was to wear away some of the rubber on the sides of the tire with some sportive riding around the twisties.

    I only took this photo on the day before I left - so that when I got back and compared the rear tire it would give me some idea when I was going to need to replace it. I had no idea it was going to be worn out after the 2nd day of the trip. The funny white color on the tire is from the new concrete driveway we got earlier this year. The older concrete on the left side of the bike is 12 years old - the new concrete on the left is pretty new and the curing compound is breaking down in the sun and chalking onto the tires - and the broom finish leaves marks on the tire that look like fabric or cord.

    I am also beginning to wonder if the 42 psi the manual recommends is proper when riding alone......I currently have 36 psi in the new tire - but I don't know what to use for air pressure long term or how much to fiddle with it when I add luggage or a rider.
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  38. #28
    Daboo's Avatar
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    I worked at a service station going through college and one of the things I picked up back then is that tire gauges can be easily 9 psi off. So running your rear tire at 40 psi instead of 42 psi isn't going to make that much difference.

    I'm putting Continental Road Attack IIIs on next. They also don't have a center tread. Noel really likes them. Hopefully, I won't get any surprises from them showing the cords on a trip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    I worked at a service station going through college and one of the things I picked up back then is that tire gauges can be easily 9 psi off. So running your rear tire at 40 psi instead of 42 psi isn't going to make that much difference.

    Chris
    I have had a few crappy tire gauges like that - they got thrown away and the ones I kept are reasonably accurate.

    It is nice that the valve stem on the F800 wheels allows me to check pressure without having to wiggle the gauge in between spokes, brake rotors and a belt pulley.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpin View Post
    Chris (Daboo)

    I fully understand your concern......as the attached photo shows, my rear tire looked OK to me before I left. I was only going to be gone 5 days, the trip down and back was about 380 miles each way, and the other three days in the mountains we seem to ride around 250 miles a day. I really didn't have any concerns the tire would make for the 1,500 miles I was likely going to ride as the tread grooves seemed to show there was rubber left - and my goal was to wear away some of the rubber on the sides of the tire with some sportive riding around the twisties.
    ......
    I am also beginning to wonder if the 42 psi the manual recommends is proper when riding alone......I currently have 36 psi in the new tire - but I don't know what to use for air pressure long term or how much to fiddle with it when I add luggage or a rider.
    I would stick with the 36/42 psi the manual recommends, no matter what the loading.
    Sundog 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundog52 View Post
    I would stick with the 36/42 psi the manual recommends, no matter what the loading.
    After a talk by a tech rep from Bridgstone, I agree, leave alone! While a couple of pounds either way won't spoil your day, I notice the difference and accept the manufacturers specifications as the best compromise between 'comfort' and handling. If you are too extreme, you could find the unexpected happens when you have to crank your bike over when getting a corner wrong or have to take unplanned avoiding action.

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  43. #32
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    I noticed my Contitech Road Attack III front tire had a max recommended pressure of 42 psi. I wouldn't run it like that though. That's the max pressure, not what the manufacturer recommends.

    Chris
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    I looked it up on the Michelin Website, and they agree that for street use the "manufacturer's" recommendations should be used.
    https://motorcycle.michelinman.com/m...-for-motorbike

    My OE Metzler wore out in a very narrow section right down the center of the tire - there was plenty of rubber on either side......just a 1" strip down the center that got used up (7,000 miles previous owner....1,000 miles of my riding).

    Hopefully my new Michelin and "my" riding style won't result in the same flat spot down the center of the tire.

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    Currently running a PR4GT with 8,900 miles on it. It is getting to the end of it's life but probably has another 1 to 2 thousand miles left. Looks a lot like the photo Sundog52 posted. I also have a PR5 with 3,800 miles and a PR5 with 5,300 miles. These are all rears. Current front is a PR5 with 12,000 miles on it. It has some cupping and the tread is down to the wear bars at the outside edge of the wear bar. I will probably pull the front wheel and get the PR4GT front swapped onto it until my next trip. Have taken three long trips in the last year and a half and don't want to leave home with a tire I'm uncertain will make it back. In June my PR4GTs had 6,000 miles on them and I was setting out on a 3,500 to 4,000 mile trip. Bought a pair of PR5s, after the trip swapped back to the PR4GT rear but the August trip was looking to be over 5,000 miles and with 3,800 on the PR5 I decided to go with a new PR5 rear rather than risk having a PR5 wear out at 9,000 miles or earlier. Based on what I'm seeing with the PR4GT I expect the PR5 to make 9,000 to 10,000 miles. I would not set out on a 10,000 mile trip without some plan in case the tire wore out at say 8,000 miles.

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    I'll probably go back to the Dunlop Roadsmart 3 tires next time. They work well in dry and wet conditions. And with a rebate, they are a very good value.

    I have no doubt the Road 5 is a good tire, but so are the others.

    Chris
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    I noticed my Contitech Road Attack III front tire had a max recommended pressure of 42 psi. I wouldn't run it like that though. That's the max pressure, not what the manufacturer recommends.

    Chris
    The lower the maximum pressure printed on the sidewall the better. It means the tire meets its max load rating at that lower pressure. If vehicle manufacturer recommends 36 PSI in the front and your tire has a 50 PSI max pressure rating then it is operating at a lower load capacity than a max 42 PSI tire running 36 PSI.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhotoAl View Post
    Currently running a PR4GT with 8,900 miles on it. It is getting to the end of it's life but probably has another 1 to 2 thousand miles left. Looks a lot like the photo Sundog52 posted. I also have a PR5 with 3,800 miles and a PR5 with 5,300 miles. These are all rears. Current front is a PR5 with 12,000 miles on it. It has some cupping and the tread is down to the wear bars at the outside edge of the wear bar. I will probably pull the front wheel and get the PR4GT front swapped onto it until my next trip. Have taken three long trips in the last year and a half and don't want to leave home with a tire I'm uncertain will make it back. In June my PR4GTs had 6,000 miles on them and I was setting out on a 3,500 to 4,000 mile trip. Bought a pair of PR5s, after the trip swapped back to the PR4GT rear but the August trip was looking to be over 5,000 miles and with 3,800 on the PR5 I decided to go with a new PR5 rear rather than risk having a PR5 wear out at 9,000 miles or earlier. Based on what I'm seeing with the PR4GT I expect the PR5 to make 9,000 to 10,000 miles. I would not set out on a 10,000 mile trip without some plan in case the tire wore out at say 8,000 miles.
    There is no such thing as a PR5. Michelin dropped "Pilot" from the name of the Road 5.
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    Quote Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
    The lower the maximum pressure printed on the sidewall the better. It means the tire meets its max load rating at that lower pressure. If vehicle manufacturer recommends 36 PSI in the front and your tire has a 50 PSI max pressure rating then it is operating at a lower load capacity than a max 42 PSI tire running 36 PSI.
    Ahh...interesting. I didn't know that. Thanks.
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    Quote Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
    There is no such thing as a PR5. Michelin dropped "Pilot" from the name of the Road 5.
    True.
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    True...but we all know what it means.

    Who calls an adjustable wrench anything but a "Crescent Wrench?" Or ear swabs anything but a "Q-tip". Michelin can call it what it wants, but the rest of the motorcycling world will probably ignore it. And eventually, Michelin may get smart and call it what everyone thinks of it as.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    True...but we all know what it means.

    Who calls an adjustable wrench anything but a "Crescent Wrench?" Or ear swabs anything but a "Q-tip". Michelin can call it what it wants, but the rest of the motorcycling world will probably ignore it. And eventually, Michelin may get smart and call it what everyone thinks of it as.

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    The Road 5 is aptly named because it is not a worthy successor to the Pilot Road 4.
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  57. #42
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    Ohhh...good one!

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    Quote Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
    The Road 5 is aptly named because it is not a worthy successor to the Pilot Road 4.
    I'm finding the Road 5 even better than my PR3/4s. What is your experience?

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    I love my PR5s. I put about 8000 miles on them this year and they still look great. A little flat spot on the rear, but I did several thousand miles of high speed freeway riding with a heavy load.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev Ken View Post
    I'm finding the Road 5 even better than my PR3/4s. What is your experience?
    Road 5 wears about 1/3rd faster than PR4 and significant scalloping.

    All motorcycle tires scallop, the Road 5 more than most.
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    FWIW, the Dunlop Roadsmart 3s didn't scallop. That surprised me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    FWIW, the Dunlop Roadsmart 3s didn't scallop. That surprised me.

    Chris
    The RS3 tires that I installed on my R1200RS are also wearing evenly, even though they are almost worn out now. However, the front tire wore out faster than the rear, which is kind of irritating.
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    I am running with a Road 5 on the front. It currently has 5600 miles of 50/50 mix of twisties and slab. It is maintained at 36psi. I don't see any indication of scalloping/cuping. See https://w6rec.com/why-motorcycle-tires-scallop-or-cup/ for interesting reading on the subject. See photos below as evidence:


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Sundog 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Daboo View Post
    FWIW, the Dunlop Roadsmart 3s didn't scallop. That surprised me.

    Chris
    Two sets of RS3 scalloped pretty significantly for me. A friend's Road 5 scalloped even worse.

    Then again, everything I use scallops.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundog52 View Post
    I am running with a Road 5 on the front. It currently has 5600 miles of 50/50 mix of twisties and slab. It is maintained at 36psi. I don't see any indication of scalloping/cuping. See https://w6rec.com/why-motorcycle-tires-scallop-or-cup/ for interesting reading on the subject.
    W6REC explains away everything to what is known as "squirm", the movement of one tire tread block relative to another.

    And he wrongly propagates the incorrect term, "cupping".

    Scalloping occurs because off-center the distance to the axle from tread is less than it is from the center of your tire. That creates a different rolling diameter. But the road moves at the same speed over these differing diameters. Something must give.
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