Anyone had their horn stop working? Mines just stopped again, last time I pulled the handle bar switch apart and wd40'd it and after the wd dried it worked again... not this time. Suspect its the dodgy handlebar switch issue but would welcome any ideas .
I've never had a problem with my horn switch, but I've always changed over to an air horn immediately after buying a bike. For me the lead from the switch goes to a relay. I like to be heard!
If the symptoms/history are as you describe, it could very well be the switch. I would never have used wd-40 because after an initial cleaning effect, the residual oil based residue would speed "gunk" accumulation. If I were you, I'd take it apart and clean it with a toothbrush and some electrical connection cleaner. That will clean "gunk", oil, and corrosion, leading to better contact. I've never been in there, but if you have access to the actual contacts, hit them with some fine sandpaper. While you're in there, test it with a multimeter to make sure it works before putting it back together. Or, maybe it's so small, you just replace the internal switch.
Sorry, I'm not much help, just thinking out loud (and typing it). Get it fixed, I find a horn to be very important and use it often. Good luck.
I've never had a problem with my horn switch, but I've always changed over to an air horn immediately after buying a bike. For me the lead from the switch goes to a relay. I like to be heard!
In agreement over loud horn but have waited to long to sort something out with mine. Just wondering if you removed/disconcerted the original horn when adding the relay and if so did it throw up any warnings on the dash due to current draw from the relay not being the same as current draw from the horn?
Much help thank you, electrical cleaner good idea, think you might be right about the residue. I agree about the horn, I can rev the engine (instead) but then it can interfere with using the throttle to get out of danger, so without the horn feel more vulnerable.
I did remove the original, but I don't think (I could be wrong) that circuit will give you an error. At least I've never gotten one, but then again, I've not tried to use the horn while one wasn't hooked up. I guess my setup still sends the same amount of power from the switch, it just activates the relay instead of the horn.
I use the Stebel Nautilus. It's awesome. I used instructions from this forum to make a bracket that mounts to the starter bolts.
Just to update, had to buy a new switch assembly, ££ouch. It works though and i feel a lot safer on these cold wet dark nights . Beep beep use your mirrors you bstard.
Where abouts did you buy it and how much was it as Im struggling to locate one in Oz
I recently installed a loud Denali horn after the original stopped working. These are essential mods as I barely ever have a ride without needing to pass on my feelings about some other drivers blindness. I found it wasnt working yesterday when I came round a corner and some guys is backing 50m up the road and I just had to get out the way when my horn didnt work
As the switch block is actually a little curved printed circuit board with all the switches sealed on it you cant really clean the contacts with electrical cleaner.
Motorworks uk ,a second hand one for starter switch side £48.90 . New one for horn side about £200 but i think that was from bmw as someone else sourced.
I just redirected the horn switch to the Denali horn wiring which triggers the relay. No warnings came up and the horn pump unit is connected directly to the battery so there is no more current load on the switch side of the circuit
After purchasing a rather expensive port scanner I found I could finally prove the logic that the switch was faulty as I could talk to the onboard controller which could talk to the horn and beep it. It was reinforced by the left heated hand grip being showing a fault code and its off the same switch block.
It would be cheaper to get a bracket cnc'd to mount a new switch than replace the original, I can live without the heaters
Wiring aint as simple as it used to be [] but typically much more reliable []
Mine also went silent. Horn is working, I tried it directly on battery, so I assume it's the switch problem. Is there any good HOW TO on taking apart switch casing? Tnx.
Bit the bullet and bought a new switch cluster for left side which was $AUD 403.00 as using the GSWiFi port scanner I had proved the switch was faulty as I could get the GSWiFi to honk the horn which proves it from the CANBUS unit out to the horn so its the switch thats faulty. Unfortunately there is a fallacy circulating on the forum that a bit of CRC or Contact spray will cure the problem. The switch block for all switch functions on the left bar are sealed and controlled by a single curved printed circuit that wraps around the bar under the switches. To resolve it you have replace the whole switch block. Welcome to the modern world however in its defense the probability of failure is a lot lower but it hurts your pocket if your the unlucky one
Will let you know next week if I can finally provide much needed feed back to LaLaLand drivers
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