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  1. #1
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    I searched the forums and read what I could find, seems like it might come down to a stator issue maybe?

    When I got the bike it has an issue where when you turn the key, the mileage and time(wrong time) would come up, then after 2 or 3 seconds everything else would swing like normal, arrows sweep, all lights flash all that. So that’s weird, haven’t taken it in to look at that yet. Doesn’t do it every time, but most of the time.
    Just been letting that ride till I can afford the dealer rape.

    However this morning, I rolled the bike out, turned the key, no display at all. Weird. Turned it off turned it on no display tried that, nothing. I did hear everything get power so I started it, started. Let it warm, turned it off, then on, no display. Started it. It started, turned around, turned back, display was on, weird.
    Rode it to work, no issues. We will see what happens when I go home tonight.

    Any ideas of what to check into?

    Battery is 3 months old, bought it when I got the bike.

    Where does the instrument cluster plug into? I’ve beeb wanting to unhook that and clean the connection.
    Maybe it’s a bad ground somewhere? Who knows. Would hate to deal with a stator problem already.
    It is always hot as hell down here.
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  3. #2
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    Sounds like a loose connection. A parts fiche might give you an idea of where to find the instrument panel connector.

    Chris
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    Yeah pretty tough to figure. Guess I’ll just have to get to unscrewing.
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  7. #4
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    Same thing this morning. Temps are feeling a little more autumn like, I’m thinking that’s somehow related. Display didn’t come on, bike started. Killed the power and tried again to see if that did anything, nothing. Restarted, then eventually the computer came on, just like it had just had the key turned, tho the bike is riding down the street....shrug. Guess I have to start unplugging and reconnecting plugs everywhere.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
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    When you start the bike try to move/bend all wire harnesses that you can find and see if that triggers the problem. Be patient and thorough and maybe you'll get lucky. That is how I found my problem. Best of luck.

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    It looks as though there is only one plug for the Dash, located behind it. This diagram is not a lot of help, but shows there is at least one plug.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, Spotlights, 50K Miles 

  11. #7
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    Haven’t had this happen again. Hasn’t been as cool as it was those two mornings. So we will see what happens when it cools down a little more.

    I did take it to the dealer to hook it to the computer to get rid of service date thing, and check for faults, no faults no issues.
    Explained the issue with the computer on power up, as well as this issue that happened twice. He said he has seen similar things on a few bikes, and those they had to replace the instrument cluster. Great.

    Guess I need to search for an exposed wire and hope to find something to fix.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
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    I would take the plug out, spray something like GT85 in there and see how it goes.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, Spotlights, 50K Miles 

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    I doubt it's your problem, but it would be worth checking the voltage with key of, key on, idling, and revving. If your stator is not charging properly, then your fairly fresh battery might allow the engine to run, but could cause some of your symptoms.

    If not, I'm with the others in that it sounds like a short somewhere.

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    Latest update.

    This has happened several times now, and the only thing that I can say is the same in all of these situations is, the air temp is below 80? I don’t know exactly, but when the air is cooler, cold starting it, instrument cluster doesn’t come on right away.
    Last two days it was rain storms bringing the temp down, display didn’t come on in the morning, and didn’t come on in the evening with a cool rain going. Middle of the day when the rain broke and sun came out, display came on, tho stuttered like it almost always does, it came on with a turn of the key.
    I can’t say that the engine heat triggers it to come on as I haven’t noticed anything that would make me think that yet.

    Gonna try and disconnect the plugs from the ecu and the cluster and all that, clean and reconnect this weekend.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
    Can you pass that $#it you,ve been smokin Arles?...
    yes i can...
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Superduper View Post
    ...This has happened several times now, and the only thing that I can say is the same in all of these situations is, the air temp is below 80? I don’t know exactly, but when the air is cooler, cold starting it, instrument cluster doesn’t come on right away...
    I doubt that's a cause. For 11 months of the year, the temperature in Puget Sound is below 80F.

    The connectors are probably a better place to look for a problem.

    Chris
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  18. #12
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    So no one else has had this happen to them?
    Turn the key, takes a few seconds for the instruments to light up? Clock is wrong..weather gets colder, instruments don’t turn on at all for a few minutes?
    I’m really starting to wonder if this is a firmware issue. How the heck to I get two bikes that both have the same issue,’one an 09 this one an 07. Both doing the exact same thing.
    And no one else has had this?
    When I took it to the dealer, the 09, they said the computer read no faults or anything.

    Wtf, and trying to call bmw just gets me referred to the service department, and they don’t seem to know anything.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
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  19. #13
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    I found a place that works on clusters, said he did an 800 last year that the display just wouldn’t come on, said he charge like 225 to fix. Bad power supply or something.
    So I guess my only question now is, will the bike work with the display missing?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superduper View Post
    I found a place that works on clusters, said he did an 800 last year that the display just wouldn’t come on, said he charge like 225 to fix. Bad power supply or something.
    So I guess my only question now is, will the bike work with the display missing?
    My guess is it should work. Mine did when I lost power to the cluster (power supply wire cut).

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    Hey, I live over in Bonita Springs, I'm a non BMW Dealer service tech. I charge $60/hr. I could check the connection and clean it for you, tune ups and any repairs too.
    -David

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  23. #16
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    Found this thing here.
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/f800g...uster.1060506/

    Same exact issues I'm having, if only I took more electronics class in high school I might try to do it myself. Just took the cluster to an instrument cluster guy across town. Said he did an F800 last year that wouldn't come on. We will see how much it ends up costing. Tried to show him this information to narrow his issue finding, and hopefully save on cost. Especially since a guy in the link said he tested the components and didn't get any issues, but changed the capacitor anyway and fixed his issue.

    We will see.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
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  25. #17
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    That was quick, got a call this afternoon saying he replaced a few parts on the board and that he thinks everything is back up to normal as far as he is able to tell.I guess I’ll find out tomorrow when I pick it up and plug it back into the bike. Hopefully everything is good on that end.

    Looks like I have the usual oil leak I’ll need to fix. Sheesh.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
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  26. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superduper View Post
    Found this thing here.
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/f800g...uster.1060506/

    Same exact issues I'm having, if only I took more electronics class in high school I might try to do it myself. Just took the cluster to an instrument cluster guy across town. Said he did an F800 last year that wouldn't come on. We will see how much it ends up costing. Tried to show him this information to narrow his issue finding, and hopefully save on cost. Especially since a guy in the link said he tested the components and didn't get any issues, but changed the capacitor anyway and fixed his issue.

    We will see.
    Thanks Jason, one of those bits of information that could very well come in handy one day. A couple of years ago I replaced capacitors in my TV. It had started to take an age to turn on then failed to turn on at all. Quick internet search revealed many TVs with capacitors failing. I've got limited electronics knowledge but on opening the TV up at least two capacitors had clearly failed. I took notes of all the capacitors and replaced them for a few pounds cost wasn't that difficult and TV as been as new since, but I would never have put a failed dash down to a blown capacitor. Learn something new every day.
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    I was just going to post about my issue from just now, but I'll add it here:

    Went out this evening to replace the fuel pump controller with the New one I got, and when I started the bike, the cluster was completely dead. No lights, no instruments. The headlight and turn signals all work and the bike starts.

    Also interestingly I connect connect to the bike with the Hex tool. The only thing that's different since the last time I touched the bike on Saturday is that its a lot colder.

    I've had this bike for several winters and have never had this issue before.

  28. #20
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    Could be the capacitor is fried.
    This guy said he changed a few things in mine that looked “burnt out” he said. I wonder if this is related to the electronic gremlins that some of these bikes have.
    I know my first bike in 07 would always fry headlight and tail light bulbs, maybe more tail lights since I was buying these 50 dollar blue headlights that don’t last for crap.
    But my lamp warning would go on and always the brake light id have to say, tail light worked but brake light wouldn’t, pull the bulb out and the connector things would be burnt.
    Hoping this doesn’t effect the cluster, and if it does, hope mine doesn’t get fried again.

    Picked my cluster up this morning, $175 bucks. Gonna connect it with my fingers crossed. He showed me that it keeps time and all that now but I always worry, my downfall, need to be more positive.
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
    Can you pass that $#it you,ve been smokin Arles?...
    yes i can...
     

  29. #21
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    Seems to work, holds time. Looks like the mileage is stored in the cluster, I thought the computer would hold that number, but I know I traveled more than 60 miles the last two days.

    Interesting enough, I don’t know when it happened since I haven’t had a cluster the last couple days to tell me, but my tail light fried, well brake light, lol.
    I wonder why it gets hot on the left side connector to the tail light bulb.
    Anyone have an answer to this 10 years later?

    I was wondering if getting an LED bulb for the back would be any better in any kind of way?
    Quote Originally Posted by batamali View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superduper View Post
    Seems to work, holds time. Looks like the mileage is stored in the cluster, I thought the computer would hold that number, but I know I traveled more than 60 miles the last two days.

    Interesting enough, I don’t know when it happened since I haven’t had a cluster the last couple days to tell me, but my tail light fried, well brake light, lol.
    I wonder why it gets hot on the left side connector to the tail light bulb.
    Anyone have an answer to this 10 years later?

    I was wondering if getting an LED bulb for the back would be any better in any kind of way?
    I had a tail light go out, but I think it was just age. Although it could be your regulator/rectifier.

  32. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tasslehawf View Post
    I had a tail light go out, but I think it was just age. Although it could be your regulator/rectifier.
    Thank you, I’ll find a link to check what it’s supposed to read and finally get a meter to check.
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  33. #24
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    Superduper, my ‘07 S has the exact same symptoms as yours. Although it didn’t show up all the time, it did get worse and worse. About 8 months ago the display quit altogether. I’ve been in & out of town so haven’t done more than a cursory voltage check. However, I have removed the display, sprayed contacts/plugs and actually opened the display to “inspect” the circuit board for any evident burnt spots etc. Nothing I can detect. FWIW, the bike seems to run as well as ever w/o any display at all and I’m sure I have over 2K miles on it since “going dark”. There is zero chance that I’ll spend $1200 on a new board for an older bike like this.
    If I hear of anything else, I’ll try to let you know.
    Stay safe

  34. #25
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    Hi Bunkies, I had a very similar problem on my G650GS. Weird lights and the clock reset to 12 and the trip ODO went to zero. Turned out to the the F2 fuse in my case. Started with a bad BMW plug trying to charge the battery though the accessory plug.
    Check and recheck your fuses. Isn't it nice to have a computer control your bike and then loose it's mind?
    Problem though, I've got fuses on the clunky G650GS and you've got the Canbus. Well maybe there is a fuse or silly assed connection that is causing your problem. Odd that a few are reporting a same issue.

  35. #26
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    I paid a guy that works on speedometers 175 bucks and it’s fixed, haven’t had any hiccups since I’ve gotten it back.
    I thought I was in the, find one on eBay for 400 and another several hundred to bmw to pair with your bike. Said I’ll give a guy who does this stuff a chance. Took like a day or two. I’m happy with that.
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  36. #27
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    My display came back on a warmer day and I convinced myself I was good, but I test it yesterday (it was 60 F) and nope. So I think I'm going to try the capacitor route. Otherwise just wait to sell the bike until the weather warms up again.

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    Anyone know if you can plug an instrument cluster with an OBC into a non OBC bike?

  38. #29
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    Not sure. I think I saw the question raised though recently and someone did have an answer.

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    Hi guys,

    This thread is amazing and I'm glad you could solve it - I'm hoping i will to.

    In short I have the same issue. Cold mornings - no display, and at all times the clock is resetting.
    I want to disassemble the Display dashboard to look and the capacitors, how do you do that? after removing the windshield I couldn't figure what's next.

  40. #31
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    You have to take off the top side plastics, the windscreen, and then there are 4 screws, two on each side, of the headlight, that’ll drop it off, you can Unclip and unplug the unit then do what you will.

    I took the battery off the other day to change the plugs and fix the gremlin cover gasket leak, noticed it wasn’t leaking thank goodness, so just did the plugs. Took bike out after that, no display at all, mother father.
    Unhooked the battery reconnected, turned the key, came on, phewwww.
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  41. #32
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    SuperDuper ... any chance to post or IM me the contact for the gent that (seemingly more or less) fixed your display? We’re practically neighbors and $175 or so is a deal compared to either new $$$$ or doing without

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    Problem Solved!

    As suggested in this thread and in one of the links someone shared here, replacing the capacitors solved my display problems!

    Important thing to note - when I gave the electronic board of the display cluster to a professional to test, the capacitors readings were fine. Nevertheless I asked him to replace them as I read that it made the change for someone and vuala!

    Installed it back yesterday and this morning it went live immediately ( before it used to take a few minutes) and it kept the clock time!
    Only thing is that I need to re-calibrate the RPM and Speed needles.

    Thank you everyone who contributed here - I wouldn't have solved it without this forum!

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    I am the recent buyer of a f800st and have been out on it a couple of times. Just went to start it today and same thing. Played around and now its going again. Tried it again 10 minutes later and off again. Then on. Time wrong I see. I noticed when I got it. You turn key on and instruments give a small sound like voltage is there and a flicker of the needles, then within 2 seconds it does it test thing. I am just wondering if that is a tell tail sign of it starting to play up. I also had the battery on the BMW charger and battery volts were at 12.9
    Mine also has the bmw remote for alarm I presume and I was playing with that but nothing seems to alter. No indication on bike that its activated. Since playing with that remote today, thats when it first gave me this no instrument show.

    Anymore help would be great.

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    If the time was wrong that would indicate it has lost power. Also, those charging volts are low. Ideally you want at least 13V in the battery, and 14.5v when charging - check your battery on the bike with the engine running to make sure everything electrical is working correctly.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, Spotlights, 50K Miles 

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    Cehck the RR & the stator output. Most likely the RR has gone wrong. Quick and easy to replace.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, Spotlights, 50K Miles 

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    Hi everyone, I've got hit with the same problem. Last ride I took a few days ago, the display did not come on from beginning to end. Before that, on two or three previous outings this last month, it went out but came back on. Seems strange that this is happening to a number of bikes all of a sudden. I haven't looked at all the threads - wondering if this hasn't surfaced before. It can't not have happened. I'm thinking the proper way to fix this would be:
    -first check connections.
    -then check if battery voltage is too high, in which case it could be the RR
    -if it isn't that, then check the Stator - will have to see if I can figure that one out
    Am curious about the capacitor replacement. Any more info on how one might go about that one self would be very helpful. And, on calibration of whatever goes out of wack - is that a simple fix?
    I have a Hanes manual which I need to look into as well before I do anything.
    Hoping that this turns out to be surmountable. As it is, have to guess at the gas level and distances!

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    Whats the RR?

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    The Regulator Rectifier. As I understand it, the Rectifier part of it converts the AC current from the Stator to DC. And, the Regulator part of it limits voltage within certain a certain maximum and minimum. I'm just getting started on this so I'm far from an expert, but hoping to find a way of understanding and fixing this problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adelwise View Post
    The Regulator Rectifier. As I understand it, the Rectifier part of it converts the AC current from the Stator to DC. And, the Regulator part of it limits voltage within certain a certain maximum and minimum. I'm just getting started on this so I'm far from an expert, but hoping to find a way of understanding and fixing this problem.
    Yes, that is how it works. To take it one step further, the regulator matches the amp demand of the electrical system up to what the stator can produce.

    If that level comes to above the stator's max of 27.8 amps (400 watts limited to 14.4 volts) then the voltage of the system will lower as the amps are drawn down (after your battery contributes what it can).

    On the other end of the spectrum (much more common), your charging system is producing more amps than the demand, so the regulator caps the power in the system to 14.4 volts. The additional amps being produced by the stator will be "shunted" as heat into the frame of the bike.

    Of course the demand and charge varies second to second, so it's always making adjustments. The charge varies by RPM, and the load varies by electricity used (fan, lights, ignition, etc.).

    If voltage is too high in the system, the electronics will get too many watts which can damage them. Our computer helps protect from this damage by shutting things down in this case. If voltage is too low, then electronics wont work either. Once voltage drops to about 12.6, the battery will be drawn down to help maintain the voltage of the system. Obviously this is lots of wear and tear on the battery. The engine won't run if voltage drops much below 12 volts.

    So if you ever measure voltage levels above 14.4 then the RR is faulty. If your voltage is low, most likely the stator is faulty, but the RR could possibly be faulty. RR can be tested very easy by doing a diode test with a multimeter. There are tons of videos to watch on that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ccramerusc View Post
    Yes, that is how it works. To take it one step further, the regulator matches the amp demand of the electrical system up to what the stator can produce.

    If that level comes to above the stator's max of 27.8 amps (400 watts limited to 14.4 volts) then the voltage of the system will lower as the amps are drawn down (after your battery contributes what it can).

    On the other end of the spectrum (much more common), your charging system is producing more amps than the demand, so the regulator caps the power in the system to 14.4 volts. The additional amps being produced by the stator will be "shunted" as heat into the frame of the bike.

    Of course the demand and charge varies second to second, so it's always making adjustments. The charge varies by RPM, and the load varies by electricity used (fan, lights, ignition, etc.).

    If voltage is too high in the system, the electronics will get too many watts which can damage them. Our computer helps protect from this damage by shutting things down in this case. If voltage is too low, then electronics wont work either. Once voltage drops to about 12.6, the battery will be drawn down to help maintain the voltage of the system. Obviously this is lots of wear and tear on the battery. The engine won't run if voltage drops much below 12 volts.

    So if you ever measure voltage levels above 14.4 then the RR is faulty. If your voltage is low, most likely the stator is faulty, but the RR could possibly be faulty. RR can be tested very easy by doing a diode test with a multimeter. There are tons of videos to watch on that.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    Cramer, thanks for your awesome post.

    I checked the system voltage today. At peak, it showed 14.78 volts. When, I started my bike to test the voltage, the display was not working. Then, shortly afterward, I started it again it turned on and stayed on.

    I usually keep the bike on a trickle charge. I am going to leave it disconnected and see if the problem comes back or stays away. Maybe the cut-off has got effected.

    The Haynes manual said the system should indicate 13 to 15 volts. Is 14.4 Volts the absolute top end limit for the F800 setup?

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    Hi Dom Mecca, I was wondering if they had to do a computer reset because of the parts changes? I'm thinking because of the labor charges, it must have made some sense to change it all rather than selectively and run the risk of having to redo work. Hoping, the problem is solved, now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adelwise View Post

    The Haynes manual said the system should indicate 13 to 15 volts. Is 14.4 Volts the absolute top end limit for the F800 setup?
    I don't know if that's the top limit, but I would guess that is what the R/R is set for. If you are seeing 14.78, then I would say you need a new R/R. Ideally you should check the diodes to confirm that it has a problem, but that is pretty high. Any online tutorial will show you how to test it. I would also guess that the computer has a threshold voltage level where it turns things off (like the display). Maybe it's just a little over 14.8 and when your voltage fluctuates over the threshold, it trips it.

    On the upside, R/R are easy to swap and cheap if bought used.

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    Hi Cramer, I'm gaining understanding on how the electronics interact and how they work with the computer, from you. Since the computer deals with the RR, it seems likely a computer reset will also be required. There was discussion above how replacing capacitors got the display started, but even for that the speedometer and rpm needles had gone out of wack - may indicate that the new parts were not being recognized. I will probably need to take the route you suggest. Thanks for throwing light on all of this.

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    Adil, I appreciate the comment, but I'm no expert. I've just dealt with a bunch of stator and R/R issues over the years and learned a bit as I went. I have a strong science background, but that only gives me the basic concepts of how electronics work.

    If the only issue you are having is the display, then it is certainly likely that a capacitor is fried. That could have happened due to a short (locally) or a spike in voltage. However, I would guess (operative word here) that the computer would be able to do its job of shutting down circuits (like a fuse normally would) before a spike reached the display board (due to a bad R/R). That is reinforced by the fact that you haven't had any other symptoms of voltage spike like blown bulbs, other electronics being shut down, etc. If this is the case and a short is your issue, then resetting, or even reflashing the computer wouldn't do anything. From what I gather, it basically resets every time you turn the key off and then on again. That's why we're supposed to wait until the yellow light goes off before starting. It sounds more like you need a new display board. I've never done that. However, I would think that a blown capacitor would look blown, so you could disassemble it and take a look. That's about all I can help.
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    Hi Cramer, I think I have a fair handle now on the concepts. I've been looking into the YouTube videos and learning a bit more. Once, I get a moment and am feeling adventurous, I'll open it up, and go from there. Thanks.

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    I thought I'd take the leap to see if I could fix the problem. Dash display was continuing to come and go. After removing the Air Filter housing. I was in new territory! I had to cut at least eight wire ties and even pull out the ZFE Unit to access the RR wiring. Just when you think "Aha, I have it now", I encountered the connector to the battery. Almost, invisible tiny protrusions to lock the clasp. There must be a special tool for that kind of thingyjig! I had to use two box cutters to separate the clasp edges away from the protrusions and use a plier to pull out the plug. It worked, but you need three hands!

    Anyway, did the diode test on the RR. Reverse biases we're all open as they should be for all the diodes. One particular diode showed a lower forward bias reading than the others. Not by much, but a greater difference than for the others. They are all supposed to be very similar, so perhaps that means the RR is in fact the problem.

    Next step then is to replace the RR and see if that was actually the cause.

    Any other view about this?

    Off the point, with the bike all stripped down, saw coolant needed topping up, so that is done. Wondering what else may need doing with everything open at this juncture.

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    I can just reach in from the left side (just behind the clutch cable) and pull down the 4 prong cylinder shaped plug fitting from its holder. No need to take anything apart. Plus the 3 prong plug between the stator and the R/R is right next to it. I just pull them out a bit and test from right there. The first time I had to cut a few zip ties to free up enough slack, but the wires are plenty long.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ccramerusc View Post
    I can just reach in from the left side (just behind the clutch cable) and pull down the 4 prong cylinder shaped plug fitting from its holder. No need to take anything apart. Plus the 3 prong plug between the stator and the R/R is right next to it. I just pull them out a bit and test from right there. The first time I had to cut a few zip ties to free up enough slack, but the wires are plenty long.

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    Good to know that's possible. I felt I couldn't reach or see the alternator connector under the ZFE Unit well enough. The cylindrical battery connector seemed jammed. So also good to know it can be manually pulled out. I'm thinking of getting some electrical connector spray and using that on all the opened connectors. I'll see if that reduces the reading differences I mentioned for the diodes. Then,if I can get all of it reconnected while still disassembled and see if the display starts up again, I may not have to buy another RR. The new ones which are competitively priced on eBay are from China and the UK which means there will be tariff add ons - they don't say how much.

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    It's worth considering a used original one too. It is a pretty generic part across many models.

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