Relocating the front turn signal lights - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    Hey All,


    I'm about to procure a 2007 F800ST, and a bit worried about the lower fairing - more attention than I would like for where I live, a lot of cheddar if it drops.

    I would like to remove them while I'm learning the bike, and use them for weekend touring gigs. They look easy enough to remove and replace with the torx screws, but I'm not sure what to do with the signal lights.

    It occurred to me to maybe attach them to the sides of the windscreen, which I don't mind poking (It's a dark non-OEM one from the previous owner).
    In such scenario, what do you do if the electric wire leading to the turn lights isn't long enough to reach the windscreen? Is there another BMW with longer wires that I can procure? Is generic wire good? I heard beemers won't start for any but their own parts..


    Another thought was to get simple one-sided handlebar wind protectors, and connect led strips to them which will run independently. This way (I figure?) it would be possible to restore the original turn lights, just by reattaching them to their original wires.
    I can't add a link or image, for they run for 10$ on ebay, and the leds aren't pricey as well.

    If I have all the parts, I can probably just ask a BMW mechanic to set it all up. Not sure what's the move though..


    What would you advise? Would generic LEDs even work on the beemer?


    Sorry if this sounds silly, I haven't modded any electric related bike parts before
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  3. #2
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    Kaz, welcome from the coast of Kansas.

    And since you asked: yes, it sounds silly to me. But lots of mods that folks do to their bikes sound silly, and unnecessary, to me. Hope you enjoy the result, however it turns out.
    Royce
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  5. #3
    MGD109's Avatar
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    If you are changing indicators you will need to replace with something of similar current draw otherwise the bike will register a fault (extending the wires will not cause an issue). ST was available with either halogen as standard or LED as an option. The bikes "ECU" has to be set to the correct one either at a Dealers or by using one of the ECU readers. The electrical socket for the indicator is BMW specific but is available just not sure where. If you don't like the lower fairing why not get an S? As for Cheddar it's a fine cheese but I would urge anybody that's looking to invest in some new cheese to try the Red Leicester that Aldi currently stock. I'll go so far as to say it's the finest hard cheese I have ever tasted.

    PS Welcome.
    In the Garage 2013 BMW F800 GT,1994 BMW R80 RT,1986 BMW R80 GS,1999 Yamaha SR125
    Sorley missed Honda TLR200
    Enjoy the ride 

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  8. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Royce View Post
    Kaz, welcome from the coast of Kansas.

    And since you asked: yes, it sounds silly to me. But lots of mods that folks do to their bikes sound silly, and unnecessary, to me. Hope you enjoy the result, however it turns out.
    Thanks


    Quote Originally Posted by MGD109 View Post
    If you are changing indicators you will need to replace with something of similar current draw otherwise the bike will register a fault (extending the wires will not cause an issue). ST was available with either halogen as standard or LED as an option. The bikes "ECU" has to be set to the correct one either at a Dealers or by using one of the ECU readers. The electrical socket for the indicator is BMW specific but is available just not sure where. If you don't like the lower fairing why not get an S? As for Cheddar it's a fine cheese but I would urge anybody that's looking to invest in some new cheese to try the Red Leicester that Aldi currently stock. I'll go so far as to say it's the finest hard cheese I have ever tasted.

    PS Welcome.
    Will the ECU maneuver you mention work only for bmw LEDs, so I would need to procure and extract them from those upgraded bulbs? Is the socket you mention part no. 65?

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    I actually prefer the ST, as the lower fairing may come handy on long trips, while removing it also removes all the beemer bling if I want to go more low-key. Also, they were only a handful of these sold in Israel, there are mostly GSes around here (I actually stumbled on the ST when looking at 2nd hand bike ads, and was quite surprised).

    Will definitely look up Leicester cheese in Aldi on my next sally to Cyprus

  9. #5
    MGD109's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaz View Post

    Will the ECU maneuver you mention work only for bmw LEDs, so I would need to procure and extract them from those upgraded bulbs? Is the socket you mention part no. 65?

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    I actually prefer the ST, as the lower fairing may come handy on long trips, while removing it also removes all the beemer bling if I want to go more low-key. Also, they were only a handful of these sold in Israel, there are mostly GSes around here (I actually stumbled on the ST when looking at 2nd hand bike ads, and was quite surprised).

    Will definitely look up Leicester cheese in Aldi on my next sally to Cyprus
    The halogen bulbs are 10 Watt, I don't know what the current consumption is for the BMW LED units (OEM LED indicators are complete indicator units not replacement bulbs in the halogen lamp holder) but it will be a lot less. The bikes "ECU" (I'm not actually sure which of the bikes electronics modules it is but I'm sure somebody will let us know the correct one in due course) is set to either halogen or LED it is then expecting a certain current draw when you use the turn signal (20 Watt in the case of halogen, less in the case of LED) and if there is too much variance from what it is expecting it will show an error, in the case of too much current it will also shut the power to the circuit in effect acting as a fuse. So any replacement (halogen or LED) must match the current draw of the bikes original halogen or LED and must be same front and back. Some aftermarket LED units draw more current than they need and use a resistor to bleed the excess off as heat this means the bike's "ECU" can remain set to halogen but will not trigger bulb warning.

    You clearly have your reasons to want to run without the lower fairing. Easiest way has to be simply extending the wires on your original indicators and mounting in a convenient place. Next would be to get some aftermarket 10 Watt halogens and using the part you have shown make up your own wiring. Any LED option you have to know the current draw and see how that compares to either the 10 Watt halogen or the BMW OEM LED units. If it's 10 Watt make up wiring and away you go if the same as the LED, make up wiring, get same for rear and set bike's "ECU" to Indicators LED either at Dealer or with MotoSan app/GS-911 tool.
    In the Garage 2013 BMW F800 GT,1994 BMW R80 RT,1986 BMW R80 GS,1999 Yamaha SR125
    Sorley missed Honda TLR200
    Enjoy the ride 

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  11. #6
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    TBH unless you drop the bike next to a kerb or an object on the floor (rocks, railing etc), the fairings are ok. The handlebars stick out far enough to offer protection for them if the bike is laid over. They don't stick out far from the frame or engine as the bike is tightly packed.

    They also offer the fairing they attach to more rigidity too - so this will not be as secure on the bike.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, 

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  13. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MGD109 View Post
    The halogen bulbs are 10 Watt, I don't know what the current consumption is for the BMW LED units (OEM LED indicators are complete indicator units not replacement bulbs in the halogen lamp holder) but it will be a lot less. The bikes "ECU" (I'm not actually sure which of the bikes electronics modules it is but I'm sure somebody will let us know the correct one in due course) is set to either halogen or LED it is then expecting a certain current draw when you use the turn signal (20 Watt in the case of halogen, less in the case of LED) and if there is too much variance from what it is expecting it will show an error, in the case of too much current it will also shut the power to the circuit in effect acting as a fuse. So any replacement (halogen or LED) must match the current draw of the bikes original halogen or LED and must be same front and back. Some aftermarket LED units draw more current than they need and use a resistor to bleed the excess off as heat this means the bike's "ECU" can remain set to halogen but will not trigger bulb warning.

    You clearly have your reasons to want to run without the lower fairing. Easiest way has to be simply extending the wires on your original indicators and mounting in a convenient place. Next would be to get some aftermarket 10 Watt halogens and using the part you have shown make up your own wiring. Any LED option you have to know the current draw and see how that compares to either the 10 Watt halogen or the BMW OEM LED units. If it's 10 Watt make up wiring and away you go if the same as the LED, make up wiring, get same for rear and set bike's "ECU" to Indicators LED either at Dealer or with MotoSan app/GS-911 tool.
    Didn't realize I'd have to change the back turn signals as well, thanks for the insight.

    "blinker fix error" on ebay yields these 2$ 12-Volt 10W 10-Ohm resistors, I guess this leaves me with maybe finding some kind of longer BMW style electric harnesses wires for my 1st attempt.
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    MotoScan looks very handy, added OBDLink to my future to-buy list.

    Quote Originally Posted by DJ123 View Post
    TBH unless you drop the bike next to a kerb or an object on the floor (rocks, railing etc), the fairings are ok. The handlebars stick out far enough to offer protection for them if the bike is laid over. They don't stick out far from the frame or engine as the bike is tightly packed.

    They also offer the fairing they attach to more rigidity too - so this will not be as secure on the bike.
    That is great to know. Prudent Germans!

    I would still like to have the option of fast removal (hope the reduced rigidity doesn't prove critical), this detail made me think of a possibly easier variant for the LEDs - use the same location, just with bulbs that are thin enough to get the fairing in and out without hassle. Need to get measurements and ebay it further.



    Thanks

  14. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaz View Post
    Didn't realize I'd have to change the back turn signals as well, thanks for the insight.
    Only if you change the front to low power LED (ie no 10 Watt emulator). There is no option to have LED front/LED rear in the "ECU" it's all LED or all Halogen.
    In the Garage 2013 BMW F800 GT,1994 BMW R80 RT,1986 BMW R80 GS,1999 Yamaha SR125
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  16. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MGD109 View Post
    Only if you change the front to low power LED (ie no 10 Watt emulator). There is no option to have LED front/LED rear in the "ECU" it's all LED or all Halogen.
    That makes it easier then. I think I found an initial set I can try out.

  17. #10
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    While I'm reaching 5 posts to put a link - I noticed that the center stand press peg, passenger peg and side luggage attachment thingie, all go out a bit farther than the exhaust pipe. With the bike leaning to the same side as the exhaust, is it possible that a cover won't be touching the exhaust at all, and I could just throw one over on arrival?

  18. #11
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    (And.. can put links now)
    Found this on Aliexpress -
    www.aliexpress.com/item/4000065563034.html

    Front/rear set, seems to have an internal relay and the emulator resistors. Diameter is 1.8cm, perhaps it'll allow the fairing to slide in/out without changing location?

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    Last edited by kaz; 1 Week Ago at 03:00 PM. Reason: added pic

  19. #12
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    Why not get some crash bars that will protect the lowers in a fall probably cheaper and easier to all the messing about you will be taking on, only asking?

  20. #13
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    I'm not the OP, so he might have some other reasons for wanting to do this, but unfortunately they (everyone) stopped making crash bars for the ST a few years ago. I know several people who want them but can't find them. I rely on mine as mounting points for auxiliary lights and highway pegs.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    08' F800ST- side panniers & Shad SH45 top case, Russell Day Long seat, MRA Vario Windscreen, SW Motech crash bars, ZTechnik exhaust, PC-8 fuseblock, Stebel Nautilus horn, Throttlemeister throttle lock, SW Motech handlebar risers, LED fog lights, highway pegs 

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