Changing headlights, park, Ames tail bulbs to LEDs - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
    swooned's Avatar
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    To be honest, the headlights are done, but I'm not sure how they did it and if they did it right.

    But right now, I've got Canbus error free tail light and parking light. Sadly, the yellow triangle shows.
    But I changed the taillight back to incandescent to see which bulb might be faulty. On putting the tail light back, now the yellow triangle is FLASH9NG! 3hy is it doing this now when before I die the incandescent test, the yellow triangle wasn't flashing, just on?

    I've had some mechanics try to fit resisters. They hear up like mad. It occured to me that I might be using too much, not too little.

    Does anyone have experience with switching the F800S or ST to LEDs? Desperate to neutralise the computer so she is happy.

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  3. #2
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    I have not switched to led, but I have added additional LEDs to a couple lighting circuits on my ST (led strip lights as additional brake lights and turn signals integrated into my topcase). So I can confirm that extra load will not cause a lamp warning. At least a little extra load. Perhaps a lot of extra load will.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    08' F800ST- side panniers & Shad SH45 top case, Russell Day Long seat, MRA Vario Windscreen, SW Motech crash bars, ZTechnik exhaust, PC-8 fuseblock, Stebel Nautilus horn, Throttlemeister throttle lock, SW Motech handlebar risers, LED fog lights, highway pegs 

  4. #3
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    G'day,

    Unfortunately "Canbus error free" isn't a one size fits all. Some products will work, some won't. LED's don't draw much current, so the clever electrical system thinks the globe must be blown, shows an error of the dashboard & sometimes also turns the power supply off. I went through about 3 different LED Canbus error free headlight globes before I found one that would work.

    Resistors can be used to increase the current draw to fool the computer into thinking everything is OK, but they get quite hot in the process... as you have found. This can be OK for short-term situations (like for a few seconds while an indicator is on) but is a no-no for something like an always-on tail light.

    Adding a few extra LED's (like Cramer has done) can work because the little extra current draw isn't enough to take it above the programmed limit. Adding lots of extras might.
    Regards,
    Phil. 

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  6. #4
    swooned's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Mariner View Post
    G'day,

    Unfortunately "Canbus error free" isn't a one size fits all. Some products will work, some won't. LED's don't draw much current, so the clever electrical system thinks the globe must be blown, shows an error of the dashboard & sometimes also turns the power supply off. I went through about 3 different LED Canbus error free headlight globes before I found one that would work.

    Resistors can be used to increase the current draw to fool the computer into thinking everything is OK, but they get quite hot in the process... as you have found. This can be OK for short-term situations (like for a few seconds while an indicator is on) but is a no-no for something like an always-on tail light.

    Adding a few extra LED's (like Cramer has done) can work because the little extra current draw isn't enough to take it above the programmed limit. Adding lots of extras might.

    Phil, you pretty much just said everything I posted.

    Where did you get the headlights from? You didn't need an auto electrician to fit any resistors with those bulbs? They're not overheating the lamp cowling? What are the supposed ifications of the bulbs? 55W? 4200K? if you can send a link to which ones you found, that would be terrific.

    Which bike do you have?

    I am not fitting extra lamps to my bike. It doesn't need it. It doesn't look good on the bike I have in how it is setup. I'm just after solution for the tail and parking light to work.

  7. #5
    The Mariner's Avatar
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    Howdy,

    I use a STEDI H7 globe in the std. BMW Headlight shell. No extra resistors or anything... just a LED control module about the size of a matchbox that comes with the globe. Excellent quality & service from STEDI.

    I ride an '09 F800R that has the big low beam & smaller high beam headlight and the passive heatsink of the LED globe hangs out the back of the low beam housing, so the std. cover on the back would need to have to have a hole put in it. Rather than do that I 3D-printed a new cover with a hole in it. I also had to print a couple of little retainers to hold the LED to the headlight shell.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Installation was not quite as straightforward as I'd have liked but thankfully I have a 3D-printer & was able to get it to work. I'm happy to share the models if you'd like to go that way.
    Last edited by The Mariner; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:52 AM.
    Regards,
    Phil. 

  8. #6
    swooned's Avatar
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    OK. This was a fair bit of a learning curve.

    This solution is this:
    The tail and parking lights are in the same circuit. So you need a resistor that will counteract both after being changed to LEDs.

    It turns out that you need about 300 ohms of resistance. It doesn't make sense but that's what seems to work. The setup we have which is near the tail light wiring is 10W/330Ohms. And it seems that if a light blows the computer will see it.

    There is no need to change the whole tail light as I've seen many do. The full LED tail light replacement looks terrible anyway.

    So, that's it. If something changes, I'll let you know but it seems to be working fine.

    PS You must use Canbus LED bulbs. You cannot use standard led replacements.

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