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  1. #1
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    In my 2015 GT owners manual ther is no mention of synthetic oil as some outhr models recommend. Some wet clutches do not like synthetic, I searched the forum and didn't find anyone recommending it. So, Dino it is, I guess unless there is I am missing some other BMW/Rotax recommendation.
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    There is no such thing as a stupid question . . . . . . My GT loves synthetic.
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    Quote Originally Posted by The-Mick48 View Post
    In my 2015 GT owners manual ther is no mention of synthetic oil as some outhr models recommend. Some wet clutches do not like synthetic, I searched the forum and didn't find anyone recommending it. So, Dino it is, I guess unless there is I am missing some other BMW/Rotax recommendation.
    Why should "synthetic" be mentioned at all? "Synthetic" is not a performance property. There are no industry standard performance criteria that a motor oil must meet to be sold as synthetic.

    That being said, my F800S runs and shifts much better on cheap Chevron Delo 15W-40 than on the top tier genuine synthetic BMW swill the dealer put in it.

    Not to say that synthetic processes can not manufacture a superior motor oil, just that the use of synthetic processes is no assurance of a superior motor oil.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

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    I've always used fully synthetic, no issues at all.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, 

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    It's a very valid question. BMW oil is just some other brand's oil with "BMW" printed on the side of the container...and with a far higher price.

    You'll find discussions of oil that is "Energy Conserving" and how that can make your clutch slip. I'll be honest and say I haven't kept up with that. I started using Shell Rotella T6 years ago on two previous bikes, and when I bought my GT, I continued doing so. If you look at the side of the bottle, you'll see where it meets the requirements of JASO MA. There are some that will debate if it actually is "certified" or not. I don't care. It works.

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  13. #6
    notacop is offline The original Schwartz Wald Troll
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    Same as Daboo. Was using Honda oil 10-40 and switched the Rotella because it's so reasonably priced at Wal mart and others recommended it too.
    You pay for what you like but many oils work just fine.

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    No disagreement here. As long as your oil meets the manufacturer’s requirements, in my experience it’s inconsequential what oil you use, synthetic or otherwise.
    2013 BMW F800GT | 2015 BMW R1200RT | 2014 Honda CB1100 DLX | 2019 Honda Monkey 

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    Avoid any oils with the words "Energy Conserving" - as they generally contain too much "Moly" and can cause the clutch to slip.

    Rotellat T6 is great oil at a very affordable price.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpin View Post
    Avoid any oils with the words "Energy Conserving" - as they generally contain too much "Moly" and can cause the clutch to slip.

    Rotellat T6 is great oil at a very affordable price.
    Thanks, Rotella seems to be popular. When I put a Bill Blue 350 top end on my Kaw KLX 250 I was told to not use synthetic because of the clutch slipping problem. As it was, I had to put a beefier clutch in, the extra power made the stock clutch slip with dino oi. Bill said I would have todo this.
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    Just a comment on clutch slipping: During the late 1970's Arco came up with a graphite-infused oil that was loaded with the stuff and very black even when new. I used it on my 1977 Honda CB550K and never had my clutch slip. Unfortunately, it didn't take long for Arco to pull that oil from the market. Apparently their customers didn't want to buy what looked like dirty oil when new. But I thought it worked great in my Honda.

    I have a sneaky suspicion that this clutch-slipping tale, unless you are using JASO-spec MA oil, is more about marketing expensive oil to us suckers that will spend any amount of money to keep our motorcycles happy than actual science. If using automobile oils cause motorcycle clutches to slip, I sure haven't heard about it from any non-industry source. Also, why did motorcycle manufacturers like BMW want you to use that type of oil on their bikes that had dry clutches? Something to ponder.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    I'll chime in with an odd one, I used Rotella on my wifes old LS650 a few years back. Clutch started slipped almost immediately when giving full throttle to accelerate without downshifting first. Drained it out after about 200 miles and used the cheapest stuff at Cyclegear for a weeks worth of commuting and the slipping disappeared. Drained that oil at the end of that week and went back to using the same Motul 5000 I used in my SV650 and it never had a problem again. Don't know if it was a fluke, but I'm not giving Rotella a second chance, especially in any of my bikes that cost more than that old Savage.
    While I had my 800GS, I used the factory oil. With a 6k mile change interval and only a ≈3qt capacity it's not like your saving (or spending) huge amounts of money going one way or the other, just use what works for you.

  21. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcb78 View Post
    I'll chime in with an odd one, I used Rotella on my wifes old LS650 a few years back. Clutch started slipped almost immediately when giving full throttle to accelerate without downshifting first.

    Don't know if it was a fluke, but I'm not giving Rotella a second chance, especially in any of my bikes that cost more than that old Savage.
    I am a moderator on the LS650 forum (www.suzukisavage.com). There was a short period of time when several of our forum members who had been long term users of T6 started to have clutch slippage problems. It turns out the Rotella T6 in the white bottle had an increased amount of moly and it was causing clutch slippage. The T6 in the new blue bottle has the reduced moly content that the original T6 had, and it is no longer causing clutch slippage and is safe to use in your LS650 again.

    I use Rotella T6 in all my bikes, my tractor, my yard equipment, and my cars. My LS650 has a Wiseco, performance cam, ported head, free flowing intake and exhaust, higher gearing - and I don't have any clutch slippage problems with the mineral Rotella T or the synthetic T6.

  22. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpin View Post
    I am a moderator on the LS650 forum (www.suzukisavage.com). There was a short period of time when several of our forum members who had been long term users of T6 started to have clutch slippage problems. It turns out the Rotella T6 in the white bottle had an increased amount of moly and it was causing clutch slippage. The T6 in the new blue bottle has the reduced moly content that the original T6 had, and it is no longer causing clutch slippage and is safe to use in your LS650 again.

    I use Rotella T6 in all my bikes, my tractor, my yard equipment, and my cars. My LS650 has a Wiseco, performance cam, ported head, free flowing intake and exhaust, higher gearing - and I don't have any clutch slippage problems with the mineral Rotella T or the synthetic T6.
    I use MOBILE 1 V-Twin in my 1975 Norton, It is recommended for the viscosity and high zinc content. Do you know if any of the Rotella are 20-50 with zinc additive?
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    The Rotella's have around 1,200 ppm ZDDP. I don't know of any Rotella products that are 20W-50.

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    Keep in mind that the new Rotella T6, fully-synthetic oil, in the blue bottle, has a viscosity of 5W-40, which does not meet the oil requirements of our F800-series engines. For my F650GS, I stick with the conventional oil T4 stuff, which has a viscosity of 15W-40 and seems to work well in that bike.

    However, I do use T6 in my R1200RS, as it does conform to all of that model's oil recommendations.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

  26. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard230 View Post
    Keep in mind that the new Rotella T6, fully-synthetic oil, in the blue bottle, has a viscosity of 5W-40, which does not meet the oil requirements of our F800-series engines. For my F650GS, I stick with the conventional oil T4 stuff, which has a viscosity of 15W-40 and seems to work well in that bike.

    However, I do use T6 in my R1200RS, as it does conform to all of that model's oil recommendations.
    Wow! Why do you need all those bikes!
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  27. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumpin View Post
    I am a moderator on the LS650 forum (www.suzukisavage.com). There was a short period of time when several of our forum members who had been long term users of T6 started to have clutch slippage problems. It turns out the Rotella T6 in the white bottle had an increased amount of moly and it was causing clutch slippage. The T6 in the new blue bottle has the reduced moly content that the original T6 had, and it is no longer causing clutch slippage and is safe to use in your LS650 again.

    I use Rotella T6 in all my bikes, my tractor, my yard equipment, and my cars. My LS650 has a Wiseco, performance cam, ported head, free flowing intake and exhaust, higher gearing - and I don't have any clutch slippage problems with the mineral Rotella T or the synthetic T6.
    Hmm, that is really interesting and I'm pretty sure it was a white bottle that I used. I got that site bookmarked, but I'm not really active there. The bike has been around so long that everything I need to know has already been talked about and I just search through it when I need to look something up. I think the only posts I have made were to get in touch with Mike to buy a modified cam tensioner, because LS650 The only reason I brought up that specific bike was because it doesn't make much power so the slipping was really out of character. Off topic, but I've finally got that bike in really good shape (it's a '96) and of course, it was just in time for her to buy a new Vulcan S. So it's still just sitting on a tender in the garage not being ridden.

  28. #18
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    My white bottle is full of Rotella T4 15W-40 conventional oil, rated JASO MA/MA2. I know because I just finished putting in 3 liters of the stuff into my F650GS, after an oil drain and filter replacement.
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    Mine was T6 and carried both MA ratings which is why I threw me a curve but it was a white (bulk) bottle. Nice to know that others had the same issue and it's been resolved now.

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    I've used Motul 7100 full synthetic for the last 7 or 8K miles in my 2015 GT and haven't ever noticed any clutch issues. But then, I'm not using the bike to drag race.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The-Mick48 View Post
    In my 2015 GT owners manual ther is no mention of synthetic oil as some outhr models recommend. Some wet clutches do not like synthetic, I searched the forum and didn't find anyone recommending it. So, Dino it is, I guess unless there is I am missing some other BMW/Rotax recommendation.
    Any oil works so long as it is not 'energy conserving', as these oils have friction modifiers that may affect the clutch.
    In a 2014 GT i ran 15w50 POA/Ester full synthetic and the engine & clutch liked it.
    A proper full synthetic oil will not shear down as quickly if at all because they do not have or do not have much viscosity improver polymers in the oil. Motorbikes with combined wet clutch can shear an oil down by one grade within 2000 kms. ie a 40 weight becomes a 30 weight. Not good.

    Car oils can be run in motorbike engines, so long as they are not 'energy conserving'. Even those that are not Jaso MA etc, again so long as not 'energy conserving'.
    I have been changing oil in bikes for 50+ years and when i first started i don't think there were 'motorcycle oils'.
    I know of an oil company that sells a car oil rebranded into a motorbike oil container and has the gall to charge more for it. Like all oil companies, they rip us off as marketing says we need special oils for motorbike engines/clutches and we blindly follow and pay more.

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  33. #22
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    I just changed the oil and used Rotella T6. Bike seems to like the oil just fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard230 View Post
    Just a comment on clutch slipping: During the late 1970's Arco came up with a graphite-infused oil that was loaded with the stuff and very black even when new. I used it on my 1977 Honda CB550K and never had my clutch slip. Unfortunately, it didn't take long for Arco to pull that oil from the market. Apparently their customers didn't want to buy what looked like dirty oil when new. But I thought it worked great in my Honda.
    Actually, if I am recalling correctly, there was a bigger issue - the graphite was clogging up small oil passages ... and motors went boom ...

  35. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoXer-1 View Post
    Actually, if I am recalling correctly, there was a bigger issue - the graphite was clogging up small oil passages ... and motors went boom ...
    I hadn't heard about that. But it is certainly possible on some engines. However, it didn't happen on my Honda 550 - fortunately. And by the time I replaced it with one of the new (crappy) 750's, the oil was off the market and I was back to using $1 a quart Castrol-brand auto oil. That was before they started making 26 different types of expensive designer oils for every possible motor vehicle application.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard230 View Post
    I hadn't heard about that. But it is certainly possible on some engines. However, it didn't happen on my Honda 550 - fortunately. And by the time I replaced it with one of the new (crappy) 750's, the oil was off the market and I was back to using $1 a quart Castrol-brand auto oil. That was before they started making 26 different types of expensive designer oils for every possible motor vehicle application.
    I use vegetable oil in my GT. It's mileage went up and it's cholesterol went down.
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  38. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildWilly View Post
    I use vegetable oil in my GT. It's mileage went up and it's cholesterol went down.
    Well, Castrol did sell castor (bean) oil that was used in racing vehicles. While I have no idea why, it did smell good as the motorcycles went buy.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard230 View Post
    Well, Castrol did sell castor (bean) oil that was used in racing vehicles. While I have no idea why, it did smell good as the motorcycles went buy.
    Several folks sold castor oil - it was even the oil of choice in the WW1 Rotary aircraft engines. At the time it was more durable than mineral oils, and it didn't burn completely in the combustion process and kept oiling - the WW1 airplane engines used that to oil the rocker arms....the exhaust would blow unburned oil onto the exposed rockers arms.....and also the pilot and bottom of the airplane were covered in unburned oil (so was your model airplane when you were a kid). Blendzall, Castrol R, Klotz Benol were a few, Bean oils could make things really sticky and gum them up.....and some was not kind to oil seals.

    Technology has improved - but I still love the smell of Castor oil exhaust! It brings back memories of early race bikes.

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  41. #28
    Melbourne, Australia IanA is offline F800Riders.org Supporter
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    Thanks, Thumpin!Memories flooding back from early 60's when we used to race our various cobbled-up "specials", runwhatyabrung sports cars and occasionally whatever you could con your Dad into loaning you for the afternoon, at club road race meets and hillclimbs. We would put half a cupfull of castor oil ( stolen from Mum's medicine chest) in the tank and drive around the pits in a cloud of that unforgettable fragrance. Why? Well, we knew that Castrol R was wot the hotshots used in their full-on racers and we just hoped someone would be impressed....
    The vanity of youth. Still smells great at vintage and veteran events, but.

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