Need advice on ST handlebar swap - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
    f0rtja's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    Bent the dang left side handlebar during trailering. Must’ve had it ratcheted too tight. Anyway, anyone have any advice on what handlebar I can swap to in 2020? I want to keep my end weights and I also have the kaoku throttle lock that I’d like to keep. I’d also like to not have to buy any new cables. I have the heli risers already installed. How do I do this?

    I’ve poked around and can’t find any help anywhere. Any advice or direction or threads you can point out is much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Jason

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  3. #2
    ccramerusc's Avatar
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    It's a standard diameter, but if you want to keep the bar ends then you will need to get another BMW one from/for an ST. eBay would be a good start. They have unique inner threads for the bar ends.

    On a related note, you learned the hard way that you should never use the handlebars of a road bike (as opposed to a dirt bike) to tie down. Instead you should strap to the lower fork yoke.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    08' F800ST- side panniers & Shad SH45 top case, Russell Day Long seat, MRA Vario Windscreen, SW Motech crash bars, ZTechnik exhaust, PC-8 fuseblock, Stebel Nautilus horn, Throttlemeister throttle lock, SW Motech handlebar risers, LED fog lights, highway pegs 

  4. #3
    f0rtja's Avatar
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    I was thinking of going with something like a renthal bar this time around. But I still want the bar weights on the end. Do you think a threaded bar end conversion kit like this:

    Fastway FIT Threaded Bar End Insert Conversion Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TUCBVUC..._4AY-EbZMR9NYK

    Tapped into the ends of the bars would do the trick?

    Also, how do I attach to the lower yoke to the ratchet straps if it is inside the fairing? I love this bike, but she’s high maintenance. Oh well, worth it.

    Jason

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  6. #4
    ccramerusc's Avatar
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    That looks like it would work assuming the bolts are the same diameter and thread.

    When you tie down over the yoke you just have to make sure not to be too wide at the base, but it should be fine in any pickup truck bed. You can use some soft loop short straps over them to reduce the chance of scratching anything.Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's a pic of my ST the day I brought it home (7 years ago).
    Click image for larger version. 

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    08' F800ST- side panniers & Shad SH45 top case, Russell Day Long seat, MRA Vario Windscreen, SW Motech crash bars, ZTechnik exhaust, PC-8 fuseblock, Stebel Nautilus horn, Throttlemeister throttle lock, SW Motech handlebar risers, LED fog lights, highway pegs 

  7. #5
    f0rtja's Avatar
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    Cramer,

    Thanks for all the advice. I'll do some more research for how this will all work out, but I bet I should just bite the bullet and pay the $225 for a new BMW bar and not try to reverse engineer something together. And also not tie down using my handlebars!! What a doof.

    If anyone has any success making their own bar ends to fit the weights, I'd sure like to hear about it, if not, I'll just start looking for a BMW replacement.

    Thanks everyone,

    Jason

  8. #6
    Runmyownlife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f0rtja View Post
    Cramer,

    Thanks for all the advice. I'll do some more research for how this will all work out, but I bet I should just bite the bullet and pay the $225 for a new BMW bar and not try to reverse engineer something together. And also not tie down using my handlebars!! What a doof.

    If anyone has any success making their own bar ends to fit the weights, I'd sure like to hear about it, if not, I'll just start looking for a BMW replacement.

    Thanks everyone,

    Jason
    This is probably one of those projects where each solution leads to another impediment. Eventually, you wonder if it's worth it. I don't know if there's a lot of satisfaction solving this the hard way, if for $225 you can get original equipment. (Honestly, in the BMW world, $225 is pretty good.)
    Concrete remains undefeated. 

  9. #7
    f0rtja's Avatar
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    To follow up, this is what I've found out. The BMW handlebars are predrilled and specially marked to mount the controls to. With also the specially threaded ends for the bar weights. Me thinking I could go down the aftermarket rabbit hole would have ended in a nightmare. So I have decided to buy the OEM handlebar and have it swapped out. My BMW mechanics in OKC said $450 for the bar and the labor. Pretty damn expensive lesson to learn to not use your handlebars as a tie-down point. Now I'm just going to see if I can offset the cost by getting a local bike mechanic to do the swap instead of the dealership. School of hard knocks another 1. Me 0.

  10. #8
    ccramerusc's Avatar
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    It really would be pretty easy to do yourself. I've had mine all apart several times and added a bunch of extra stuff to them (aux light switch, RAM mount, hand guards, heated jacket thermostat mount). I also pivot the levers down from stock. I've also had to replace the left grip heating element.

    If you're interested, this would also be a great time to add risers.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
    08' F800ST- side panniers & Shad SH45 top case, Russell Day Long seat, MRA Vario Windscreen, SW Motech crash bars, ZTechnik exhaust, PC-8 fuseblock, Stebel Nautilus horn, Throttlemeister throttle lock, SW Motech handlebar risers, LED fog lights, highway pegs 

  11. #9
    notacop is offline The original Schwartz Wald Troll
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    I bent the bars on my DL650 in a get off. I just muscled and beat it back into place. Did the same thing with the handle bars on a ATC that took a tumble.

  12. #10
    andysrage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by f0rtja View Post
    To follow up, this is what I've found out. The BMW handlebars are predrilled and specially marked to mount the controls to. With also the specially threaded ends for the bar weights. Me thinking I could go down the aftermarket rabbit hole would have ended in a nightmare. So I have decided to buy the OEM handlebar and have it swapped out. My BMW mechanics in OKC said $450 for the bar and the labor. Pretty damn expensive lesson to learn to not use your handlebars as a tie-down point. Now I'm just going to see if I can offset the cost by getting a local bike mechanic to do the swap instead of the dealership. School of hard knocks another 1. Me 0.
    Jason, If you haven't bought the bar yet, I have a stock ST bar I'd be willing to part with, assuming that you are in the US. I replied to your Classified post almost a week ago but am posting here in case you didn't see it.

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