New Member -Need source for technical specs - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    I recently purchased a 2013 F700 GS with 13,000 miles on the odometer. I'm enjoying the bike and trying to assure myself that everything is in proper working order. To that end, I've changed the oil, adjusted the chain, and added DOT 4 brake fluid to the rear, almost empty reservoir. This is the first I can remember ever having to add brake fluid to a vehicle. Usually it's a sign the pads need to be replaced but it looks like there's plenty of pad left. I mic'd the rotor, but could not find a minimum thickness listed in the owners manual or online. Since I like to work on my own vehicles, I'm going to need an owners manual.

    Where can I find one for this bike. Can I find an aftermarket source for it?

    In the meantime, can anyone provide me with the minimum rotor and pad thicknesses? I was also unhappy with the color of the brake fluid in the reservoir. I'll be changing it, whether or not I replace pads, or the rotor. Are there preferred brands of brake fluid?

    How about good aftermarket pads and rotors should they be needed? The manual states the pads are organic. Are there better choices?

    Thanks in advance for your input.

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  3. #2
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    The minimum thickness is stamped on the disc. I believe it will be 4.5mm. All the bikes sharing that same rear brake reservoir as your bike (F650/700/800XX) discolour the brake fluid until after a flush or two. It is not anything that affects the brake's functioning. Organic EBC FA213 pads would be a good choice. If you do your own servicing you may wish to get the BMW service manual on a CD.

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  4. #3
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    I could not find anything stamped on the rear rotor. One of the fastening tabs had 2D stamped on it. If it really is a minimum thickness of 4.5 mm then I’ll likely need a new rotor when I change the brake pads. 4.5 mm converts to .177 inch. My rotor is .183” thick.
    Any recommendations for aftermarket rotors?
    And is the BMW dealer the only source for the cd?


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  6. #4
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    Welcome from the coast of Kansas. Glad to have you with us.
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  7. #5
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    Your rotors are fine at .183" I just put a micrometer on mine, and got .188 on the rear and .180 for the front. Did you also measure the front rotors?

    About a decade ago, I replaced the rear rotor on my 1999 R1100RT with a Chinese rotor sourced from eBay for about $80. I was pleasantly surprised at how well it was made, and it held up at least as well as OEM for the next 20,000 miles. Of course, quality varies widely with Chinese manufacturers, so YMMV.

    If you decide to replace the the pads, remember to clean the rotors to remove pad residue, using either garnet paper or 3M Scotchbrite. Then clean meticulously with a cloth and ample amounts of brake parts cleaner.

  8. #6
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    I used BikeMaster brand on my 800GS a few years back, they are made by NG which is the OEM supplier for many bikes. When they arrived they had logos for both companies etched on the carriers. Price was under $200 per rotor and they worked perfectly for as long as I owned the bike.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blunote View Post
    I could not find anything stamped on the rear rotor.
    Look again.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #8
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    Thanks for the photo. I looked again, and there it was. However, for the front rotors, the minimum thickness is stamped on the carrier, not on the rotor. It's also 4.5mm

    If the source I checked is correct, a new rotor is 5 mm thick, which provides a base reference point for wear. If the rotors work smoothly and aren't warped, I wouldn't consider replacing them until they are at or very near minimum thickness, or I was contemplating something like a ride to Alaska.

    Note that the bolts securing the rotors are probably coated with Loctite, so you will need a heat gun to soften the adhesive before backing them out. Clean threads (both male and female) with acetone, then re-apply a coat of blue Loctite to the threads and torque to spec. using a criss-cross pattern. There is some discussion about whether to replace or re-use the bolts. I'm in the re-use school.

  11. #9
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    FWIW my front rotors had 30% life left at 40k miles and the rear was at 10%. The front pads were also the original sintered pads the bike came with, rear had been replaced once with OE organic pads. So with 13k miles, you should have plenty of life left unless something is wrong.

  12. #10
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    I have the 2015 700GS,. As far as the brakes the only thing necessary so far was the rear pads,,. I got a complete set of Galfer however still have plenty left on the front at 29,000 Kms,,. I did the back pads at 24,000 and they were nearing there end,,. You might want to pull them out and inspect them as mine didn't wear evenly so one edge was getting kindah close,,. I havent even thought about rotors,,. My fluid was quite clean looking at 12,000 Kms when I bought the bike but I will be doing that job soon, along with a rad flush,,. Its possible the previous owner did the fluid at some point just prior to selling it, as it was like new,.

    I would ask if there is a preferable fluid recommendation, coolant as well?

  13. #11
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    Any quality DOT 4 fluid for the brakes, I do mine annually because I can see a color change in that time. Coolant actually has no service interval and the factory service manual. As best as anyone can tell it only needs to be done when the system is drained for some other service. The coolant BMW specs should be good for at least 100k miles if not the actual life of the engine. Unless you're overheating and blowing it out, you shouldn't even need to top it off more than once or twice in that time. Anyone that HAS done a flush can also tell you that the design of the 700/800 engine is a complete PIA to get all the air out of if you do decide to flush, BMW made a special tool for their dealers for this job. There are some DIY methods, but have some friends help because it involves rocking the bike side to side (more than just a little) while the engine is running and knowing where all the bleed ports are.

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  15. #12
    Lag's Avatar
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    Thanks Rcb78 for the info,,. Might have guessed you need a special tool to change the coolant, do I recall there is not even a drain plug?
    Whats the common thinking on the Valve check, plugs and what ever goes along with it? Perhaps Blunote may want to look into that at some point, probable due if your by the book?
    I'm over due now for the 1'ist valve check @29,000 Kms, what should be done along with that? Coolant plugs? Filters? I was going to try and do as much as I could before sending it to the dealer for the valve work?
    Last edited by Lag; 1 Week Ago at 12:42 PM.

  16. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwroadsterca View Post
    Look again.

    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	46 
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ID:	366861
    Looked again....not there. Thanks for the minimum thickness spec though.

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