Front wheel bearing removal - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    Hi!

    Once again I turn to you fine gentlemen for some help. The problem this time is a set of ridiculously stuck front wheel bearings. The bike has 45k km on the odometer, is 13 years old and these are probably still the factory set, and I noticed that the front wheel wasn't spinning as well as it used to. Took it apart and turns out one of them was starting to have resting spots. Taking out the seals was a nightmare, but I finally got those out as they were pretty stuck too.

    Now for the difficult parts:
    Tapping out those bearings. Most sources say tilt the spacer, alternate the ledge you tap on.
    Well, I can't tilt the spacer far enough to access a ledge I can seat a punch on.
    BMWs RSD says: heat to 100°C. I now have a laser thermometer, a heat gun, a bearing extractor, one of those clawlike things that the extractor screws in to, basically the entire setup that the RSD asks for and I STILL can't seat a punch or the bearing extractor because of the spacer even if I heat the rim to 100°C and/or flash freeze bearing and spacer. A slide hammer moves nothing either.
    The extractor tends to move the spacer to one side, preventing its other ledge from getting a proper grip on the bearing.

    My next idea would be to buy a M27x2 thread cutter and cut a thread in to the inner bearing ring, screw a M27 bolt in to it and cut a thread for my bearing extraction claw in to this bolt and yank it out that way.
    Anyone have any better suggestions on what I could do? I've been working on this on and off for two weeks now, mostly waiting for tools to be shipped to me.

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  3. #2
    Ware, Herts, UK Pat H is offline F800Riders.org Supporter
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    Its unlikely you can cut a thread on the inner. Its hardened steel and it will turn.
    Don't fret on heating to exactly 100 degrees. That's not very hot. As long as your don't melt the ali you should be good.
    So a good bit of heat to the ali to help it expand.
    I found a metal rod slightly thinner than the wheel axle with a nice sharp edge allowed me to slid the bolt in and then push it one way and tap then another way and tap and so forth.
    Just keep tapping and moving round for a good while. it may not look like anything is happening but each jar helps release it.
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  5. #3
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    I've never needed anything other than a decent pin punch, lump or dead blow hammer and a bit of heat using the method outlined by Pat H. Alternating the blows to either side being what I was taught to do and not heavy "gorilla" blows to one side which can get the bearing crooked.

    To be honest, if you're having this much difficulty getting the old ones out which is normally a straight forward task; it might be better to take the lose wheel, new bearings and any spacers/seals already removed to a competent motor engineer in your area. I'd expect well less than an hours bench time to extract and replace bearings to a lose wheel.

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  8. #4
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    I had to remove the front bearings a few weeks ago on my ST.
    I haven't succeeded by tilting the spacer.

    So, I have bought special anchor pins
    https://www.leroymerlin.fr/v3/p/prod...mm-e1501561064
    Once expanded and after heating the wheel with a hot air gun, it went fine.

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  10. #5
    BoxerBits's Avatar
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    Here's a decent video from Delboy replacing wheel bearings on one of his daily rides. It's a little long but pretty good at explaining how the spacer needs to be shifted slightly to allow access to the bearing inner race to get the old bearing out. Method is using an angled punch, or in his case an old screwdriver, and delicate taps with a lump hammer.

    https://youtu.be/dQbKXbhyFQs

    Hopefully this will be of use to some who need to do this job.

    Yes there are more elegant ways of doing this but it's the traditional way to get the job done in a workshop.





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  12. #6
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    Looking at parts diagram for my 2007 F800S it appears the center spacer fits inside the bearing. You will not be able to cock it sideways. Knowing the spacer probably fits inside the bearing and has a shoulder on the far side you should be able to see it.

    If this is the case then drive the the far bearing out by pressing the spacer in from the other side. Perhaps the axle has a shoulder that fits inside the bearing and spacer but also rests on the spacer that it could be used to press the far bearing out?
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

  13. #7
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    If all else fails you can ty a blind hole bearing puller of the right size for the inner diameter of the bearing.you insert it in the bearing & tighten it up & it expands.It has a small lip on the bottom that catches on the small radius of the bearing center hole. It's what i use to change the front wheel bearings on the K75. My F800ST still has the original bearings in the front wheel at 87171 miles. Probably should have been changed already.

  14. #8
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    Meh! All you need is one of these the size of the inner race.
    Push it in, tighten it, use a drift from the other side to knock it out.
    My goto for more years than I care to remember

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #9
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    So, update time:

    I used a few devices, none of them worked, ended up taking it to a dealer and got them to pull it out for 37€. Less than I had expected. I ended up swapping the SKF bearings for a set of all balls because I botched the first insertion. The all balls after being cooled to -20°C and the rim being helped to a copious amount of heat ( in excess of 110°C) and both being lubricated, slipped right in with a gentle push.
    On the topic of the spacer: It has distancing disks on it that prevented me from moving it to either side and using a punch to get the bearings out. Not very nice of you, BMW, until it comes to putting the wheel back in - no searching for the spacer. Thank you, BMW, for not making me fiddle with keeping it in place while I stick the axle through.

    Side note: I expect that the Motion Pro gear probably would have worked. I'll get someone in the family to bring a set next time they fly to the states, as they are surprisingly difficult to obtain here.

    Quote Originally Posted by tvbilld View Post
    If all else fails you can ty a blind hole bearing puller of the right size for the inner diameter of the bearing.you insert it in the bearing & tighten it up & it expands.It has a small lip on the bottom that catches on the small radius of the bearing center hole. It's what i use to change the front wheel bearings on the K75. My F800ST still has the original bearings in the front wheel at 87171 miles. Probably should have been changed already.
    If you mean something like this: https://www.kukko.com/de/produkt/mp_21/21-4/
    Wouldn't seat properly and slip off the inner race on one side, leading to a non vertical position. If cranked on with the entire set up, it would just slide out.

  16. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tengu View Post
    So, update time:

    If you mean something like this: https://www.kukko.com/de/produkt/mp_21/21-4/
    Wouldn't seat properly and slip off the inner race on one side, leading to a non vertical position. If cranked on with the entire set up, it would just slide out.
    Nope, 40-odd years of using one for bearing removal (with a drift to knock it from the other side) and I guarantee it works just fine.
    Though that one you linked to looks far too thin-walled to be of any use, but the one I showed is perfect for the job.

  17. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoxerBits View Post
    Here's a decent video from Delboy replacing wheel bearings on one of his daily rides. It's a little long but pretty good at explaining how the spacer needs to be shifted slightly to allow access to the bearing inner race to get the old bearing out. Method is using an angled punch, or in his case an old screwdriver, and delicate taps with a lump hammer.

    https://youtu.be/dQbKXbhyFQs

    Hopefully this will be of use to some who need to do this job.

    Yes there are more elegant ways of doing this but it's the traditional way to get the job done in a workshop.





    Sent from my moto g(8) power lite using Tapatalk
    Just watched that video Nigel. Nice one, worth taking note of and possibly saving for future use.
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  18. #12
    tvbilld's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tengu View Post
    So, update time:

    I used a few devices, none of them worked, ended up taking it to a dealer and got them to pull it out for 37€. Less than I had expected. I ended up swapping the SKF bearings for a set of all balls because I botched the first insertion. The all balls after being cooled to -20°C and the rim being helped to a copious amount of heat ( in excess of 110°C) and both being lubricated, slipped right in with a gentle push.
    On the topic of the spacer: It has distancing disks on it that prevented me from moving it to either side and using a punch to get the bearings out. Not very nice of you, BMW, until it comes to putting the wheel back in - no searching for the spacer. Thank you, BMW, for not making me fiddle with keeping it in place while I stick the axle through.

    Side note: I expect that the Motion Pro gear probably would have worked. I'll get someone in the family to bring a set next time they fly to the states, as they are surprisingly difficult to obtain here.



    If you mean something like this: https://www.kukko.com/de/produkt/mp_21/21-4/
    Wouldn't seat properly and slip off the inner race on one side, leading to a non vertical position. If cranked on with the entire set up, it would just slide out.
    Yes. That's what i use for the K75. Not the same brand but is the same type . I do have it slip off some times & have to reseat it. the expanding concrete anchors mentioned by Panuno (peter) looks like should work OK or maybe even better than the blind hole puller for the wheel bearings. And a lot cheaper. when i have to change the bearings in the F800 may try the concrete anchor method.

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  20. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tengu View Post
    On the topic of the spacer: It has distancing disks on it that prevented me from moving it to either side and using a punch to get the bearings out. Not very nice of you, BMW, until it comes to putting the wheel back in - no searching for the spacer. Thank you, BMW, for not making me fiddle with keeping it in place while I stick the axle through.
    One, or more? Only needs one in the center. Then the spacer is easy to cock.
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  21. #14
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    Hiya all, my F800ST is now in for a front and rear wheel bearing replacement and belt drive worn + service. It recently passed the UK MOT (Ministry Of Transport test) which all UK vehicles over three years old must have by law, but that came with several notes on which were Play int the front and rear wheels, worn belt.

    So, Purchased a belt from Amazon UK for £86 using my amazon card so price reduced down from £101, which is far far better than BMW £250+. I have the bike serviced each year by Ian Joyce of Bike Works, near Wollaston Northants, a single one man band who is an EX BMW bike engineer. There is nothing Ian does not know about our bikes, totally awesome bloke, always busy and makes time to keep me informed on progress.

    It seems the rear wheel bearings are normally a unit replacement about £600 for the whole thing + labour, but he set about stripping it down and replaced bearings and seal as needed, fronts are now sorted as well, for a hell of a lot less than £600.

    This is the second lot of rear wheel bearings I have had replaced now, the first was replaced way back when it was noticed by the members on this Forum were complaining about rear wheel bearing failures on the F800 series bikes. I paid for mine initially then when via this forum it was mentioned that BMW accepted liability here in the UK, that I contacted my local dealer Wollaston Motors (bikes) in Northampton, who checked it out to be the case, as they had not had confirmation when I contacted them. So I was re-imbursed the money I had paid.

    So that is my history up to date on wheal bearing issues.

    Flook
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