3D printed parts for the F800S and F800ST - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Since the only topic about 3D printing is in the GS section, I feared, that the chance a S or ST rider would stumble on it was quite low.
    So I thought I'd start this topic dedicated to 3D printed parts for our beloved S and ST bikes.

    There are many small decorative or technical parts, that you can make with a 3D printer.
    Below are a few examples of designs I have made for my F800ST.
    Please post your designs (or your requests if you have a need but don't have a printer).
    Let's see what we can do together to make the F800 even better...

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  4. #2
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    The first part I have designed for the F800ST.
    I wanted my Givi V33 cases to look more "genuine".

    Basically, those are printed in multiple steps :
    - black support, with letters and surroundings painted in silver grey.
    - blue and white "propeller" segments, glued on top of the
    - the finish is done with a clear coat of soft epoxy resin.

    Here are screenshots of the 3D model in the modeler (Fusion360) and the slicer program (Cura) :


    Pictures from the early prototypes :


    Final result with a thick layer of soft epoxy resin too have a rounded and glossy look :

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  6. #3
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Second design.
    I was fed up with my mirrors folding by themselves when reaching 50MPH, and I didn't want to buy new mirrors.
    So, I have scratched my head and decided to design a part, that would allow folding in reverse direction when I park the bike in my garage





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  9. #4
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    When I Have decided to add RDC sensors to the F800ST, I have bought a RDC module, but didn't immediately notice it was missing its holder.
    Then I have designed mine :


  10. #5
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    The last design I have made.
    After changing my wheels, I found there was something missing : a proper center cap.
    I have copiedthe model I made for the Givi case badge and modified it for this function.
    Instead of a flat base, it has a segmented cylindrical base, that grips into the hub thanks to the plastic's elasticity.
    Here is a cut section from Fusion 360 :


    Again, I have used a thick coat of soft epoxy resin to do the finish :
    If you have a closer look, you'll notice, that these are 2 differents designs. The left one is with embossed details, and right is with engraved detail
    Which one do you prefer ?

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  12. #6
    notacop is offline The original Schwartz Wald Troll
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    I like the folding mirror device. There have been some posters that complain their mirrors don't fold.
    Making Rondels may have the BMW legal guys breathing down your 3D printer if you try selling them. They are very proprietary.

  13. #7
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notacop View Post
    I like the folding mirror device. There have been some posters that complain their mirrors don't fold.
    Yeah, Seems like a standard decease on these bike...

    Quote Originally Posted by notacop View Post
    Making Rondels may have the BMW legal guys breathing down your 3D printer if you try selling them. They are very proprietary.
    Selling them ? No, that's not my goal.
    But BMW legal guys go even further than preventing you from selling roundels (though there are plenty of illegal ones sold on ebay or ali). They also prevent you from distributing a free 3D model if it includes the BMW logo. I had tried to share my Givi case badge model on thingiverse and it had been flagged by BMW and removed from the site...

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    nice work!!! any chance of spreading the 3d model since you are not selling the mirror parts???

  15. #9
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    The 3D model is available at cults3D : https://cults3d.com/fr/mod%C3%A8le-3...irror-blockers

    As already said, I won't be "selling" anything. However, if someone from the forum is interested in one part and has no printer, he can still contact me and I can arrange to print and ship a part to him, and then he can "donate" what he thinks it's worth.

  16. #10
    notacop is offline The original Schwartz Wald Troll
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    ""donate" what he thinks it's worth."

    Yah, to the charity of their choice!

  17. #11
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by notacop View Post
    Yah, to the charity of their choice!


    Don't get me wrong, All I want is to cover the shipping cost. But If they want to send me more, my own charity will be thankfull.

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    I really like the mirror fixers. Did you design any intended stress failure point in to them, so that they break first instead of either fairing parts or a part of the mirror? Seems like it would be the cheapest part to replace in case of a tipover or other type of incident where the bike ends up on it's side.

  19. #13
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Good question. The answer is no. I must admit I haven't thought about crash consequences....
    This might be a good improvement. I will definitely think about it.

  20. #14
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    wow i like so much center cap embleme, The left one is with embossed details. My compliments, well done.

  21. #15
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Thanks for your kind comments.

    Yesterday, I have worked on the breakable mirror blockers. This version should be strong enough to suppport the wind pressure but should split and break in case of a crash or tip over.
    I will print a prototype ASAP.

    Last edited by Buzzz; 12-02-20 at 02:44 AM.

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  23. #16
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    hey Buzzz check your messages please!!!

  24. #17
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Hi xixi,
    I was about to reply to you.

  25. #18
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Printing the prototype :


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  27. #19
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    The first design is not good. It breaks where I want, but too easily.


  28. #20
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    Second prototype. This time, instead of a slot totally splitting my support in 2, I have just refined the ligament to a single nozzle pass.
    Result : the design is much stronger than Proto 1 and it breaks when I hit it, but the break is not happening where I planned. I need to refine this one.




  29. #21
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Third prototype : Success!!!


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  31. #22
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Xixi, your blockers are ready.


  32. #23
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    These are pretty incredible. Obviously, you're an experienced designer and printer. I hope this tech really takes off so people are print their own parts at home for a reasonable cost. What is the printer and material you are using and what is the cost? It looks like you're in France so the cost may not translate to the U.S. but interested in learning more anyways.

  33. #24
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Hi Chupa. Thanks for your interest in this technology.
    The price of the parts is really reasonnable, unless you take the print time into account, which is really donwside of it.
    I use a cheap consumer printer, a Tevo Tarantula which costed around $200 new. This was a kit, so I had to build it myself, and after that, I have spent the 6 first months to fine tune my print settings and print mod parts to improve the precision and quality.
    There are some much more expansive printer available, which are already good out of the box, but my thought is, that you can't use a machine efficiently if you're just pushing the start button and don't try to understand how to make the best parts from it.
    Regarding the materials, it depends on the type of parts :
    - PLA is the most common material. It's easy to print (205°C). However it's quite brittle and doesn't like UV exposure. It's good for purely aesthetic parts
    - PLA with metal particles. I use this type of PLA to make nice parts looking like metal (Brass, Steel, Gold) and which are heavier than a fully plastic part. The counterpart is, that it's weaker than simple plastic.
    - PTEG is the same plastic used for soda bottles. It prints at a higher temp (240°C)and is a bit trickier because it has a tendency to make unwanted "dripping" filaments. But it's strong, flexible and food safe.
    - ABS. Very strong, heat resistant, but very tricky to print (260°C + heated pint bed). It warps much due to its high thermal elongation coefficient. Used for mechanical part
    - ASA. As strong as ABS, UV resistant. It needs a high temp as well (260°C + heated bed), but warps much less than ABS. This is my preferred material to print parts for the motorbike.
    All these materials are available in many colors and finishes : dull, metallic, translucent, glowing in night,...
    The price of the filament varies from $15 for 2 lbs of basic PLA to prices like 90$ for 2 lbs of carbon reinforced plastic.

    Below is an example of part printed with brass filled filament. I have scanned my daughter with a camera, made a 3d model from the pictures with a dedicated software, and printed her :

  34. #25
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    Mind sharing which printer you're using? I've been on the fence about getting one for myself, just not sure how much I'd actually use it. There's really only a few things I'd actually want for my bike, and the rest of my ideas are more geared towards just fun things to print for the kids. I'm looking at the Ender 3, which says it can print ABS, but it looks like the max temp for the stock hotend is 250 C, so I'd prolly need to upgrade an all-metal one.

  35. #26
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    As said in my previous post, I use a modded Tevo Tarantula. The max temp is mainly dictated by the original PSU, which can't handle high temps for both the heated bed and the nozzle. I switched to a 500W PC PSU and it works fine with the standard hotend (E3D clone on which I modified the heat exchanger fans) at 260°C with a bed heating at 100°C.

  36. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzz View Post
    Hi Chupa. Thanks for your interest in this technology.
    Very cool! Thanks for taking the time to reply with such details. I'll be keeping an eye on this tech for the near future.

  37. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buzzz View Post
    Third prototype : Success!!!

    I wish I could get a pair of these - unfortunately, due to the missing E in a circle number, I doubt I can actually get my roadworthiness approval (Tüv) with them. Bueraucracy preventing foolishness for some and ingenueity for others as in this case at the same time.

    A further idea for improvement: Have you tried vapour bathing the (I'm assuming) ASA parts? It supposedly works quite well with ABS and I was wondering how it would affect the stress fracture breaking point, as it liquifies a top layer of the plastic - the split along the back end of the mirror holder being a single layer, it might be a bit too much for it. However, the smoother texture would probably be enough to allow me to get these parts signed off by the local Tüv engineer.

  38. #29
    Buzzz's Avatar
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    Hi Tengu,

    See below my test parts. The 3 ones starting from the right were about testing solutions for the surface finish :


    Zooming in :


    1st from the left : acetone vapor test. It seems impossible to obtain a smooth finish and not melt the part at the same time. This part is too thin for this solution.
    2nd : epoxy resin finish directly put on the part from the printer. Promising but not sufficient
    3rd : hand polish with 240 grit then 1000 grit

    I think the best is epoxy resin after a quick 240 grit polish. I'll try that once I buy a new spool of black ASA.

  39. #30
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    Looking good! I really appreciate your updates which allow us to follow the progression. I've learned more about 3D printing from you than any other source.
    Concrete remains undefeated. 

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