Need Advice on Removing a Spinning Fairing Screw - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    Chris Bennett
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    Well, through my own impatience I mis-threaded a right rear fairing screw, gas tank side. It went in crooked and got stuck. When I try to remove it, its anchor spins and it will not back out. It now protrudes a bit and I cannot remove the fairing. I am looking for ideas to help me remove the screw and anchor.

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  3. #2
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    I didn't do that fastener but have done something similar, I always remember to not cross thread AFTER I do something like that! My first thought is to get a Dremel tool and carefully cut the head off the screw. Don't want to get it too hot as it would melt the plastic. Other idea is to hold the screw head with vicegrips and drill out the screw head. You will have to get another screw, order one or go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a similar one. Remember you are close to the fuel tank so work carefully.

  4. #3
    Runmyownlife's Avatar
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    Rather than a Dremel, which may be a bit tricky given the workspace, perhaps cut the head off with a hacksaw (a fine-toothed saw made for cutting metal.) I think you'd have more control and avoid damaging the plastic. You can protect the plastic by covering with tape.

    With the head cut off, the fairing can be removed. The extra visibility could provide some insight how to remove/repair the rest.
    Concrete remains undefeated. 

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  7. #4
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    Chris,
    Have just looked at my bike and the BMW parts diagrams. I believe that the screw goes into a threaded hole in the square tube of rear frame --- no nut / retainer listed.
    Before resorting to cutting off screw head, I suggest that you try holding the rim of the screw head in vice grips and try unscrewing it whilst pulling it firmly upwards. May just be able to get thread to "bite" and unscrew. Once removed, you could try cleaning up damaged thread in tube with correct size tap or drill out damaged thread and recut for next size larger screw or maybe just use a suitable self tapping screw.
    Good luck.

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  9. #5
    Sundog52's Avatar
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    Is there enough room to get a screw driver under the frame to "jam" the retainer to keep it from spinning? I encountered a similar problem around the upper fairing fasteners and a surgical pliers (hemostat) did the trick. Good luck
    Sundog 

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  11. #6
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    Thank you all for your suggestions and guidance. In the end, I cut off the screw and drilled it out. For safety, I sealed up the gas and covered it with a towel before I used a small cutting wheel to cut off the head of the screw. I found a fairing fastener kit on eBay that had the right nuts and screws. I repainted the area and put in the new screw and well nut.

    Attachment 370233Attachment 370235Attachment 370237

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  13. #7
    flyrider's Avatar
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    I had the same issue with the upper triangular fairing panel that needs to come off to swap windscreens. I swapped screens one time too many and when I tried to swap again, one of the 3 screws wouldn't come out...I think the fastener under the panel broke, and the screw just turned and turned but didn't back out. I had the stock tinted screen on at the time, and took this as a sign that I should keep the stock tinted screen on, and so just left the screw in place (it's not going anywhere)...I haven't regretted it one bit, as my OCD tendencies would have had me swapping screens until the sun ran out of hydrogen fuel and began to collapse into a white dwarf.

  14. #8
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    Thank you for sharing the update. Glad it worked out. Nice touch painting the repair area.
    Concrete remains undefeated. 

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    I had this exact thing happen not long ago. I believe what did it for me was a bit of locktight that was very well locked. I put an adaptor for a tank lock SW Motech tank bag on top of the air box on my ST. The instructions said to use a bit of locktight. This screw would spin for ever and I turned that sucker for an hour couldn’t reach the other side with any tool. I even tried reaching under with a file and filing the anchor off. My bike plastics where not in perfect condition already even had a couple other hole damaged from a drop from prior owner. I broke it out and just said screw it (pun intended) I was not planning on dealing with hours of crap and frustration that day but that’s what I did. I traded in my ST. Now I sit with a bunch of ST specific parts and gear. Please hit me up if anyone I interested in a brand new set of Russian made Crazy Iron crash protection bars.
    Sw Motech tank ring adaptor
    Drive belt brand new
    Stock hard bags need re keyed
    Owners manual
    From 2010 F800ST

  16. #10
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    I'm surprised SW Motech advised using loctite. Most of the captive "nuts" used for the fairings are already self locking (the thread barrel is slightly crimped). So I'm not surprised that it was difficult to get the screws out.
    18 F800GT 

  17. #11
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    I learned that lesson the hard way years ago. When I got my CBR600RR first time I pulled the plastics off I used Locktight (actually Honda thread locker) and had a very difficult time getting them loose again. Bought several of the captive nuts and plastic nuts and replaced them. No more Locktight after that - I still use it on bolts going into metal.

  18. #12
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    I believe that little plastic washer has two benefits. It protects the paint - and it prevents the screw from loosening from vibration.

    I don't use any threadlocker on the body panels screws that use the plastic washers.

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