Footpeg lowering kit install - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
    Points: 997, Level: 17

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    Not a new topic, but another look at the Suburban Machinery footpeg lowering kit and it's installation.
    The Missus is taking on the ST as her new "touring" bike and the low seat does not work well at all with the standard footpeg height, especially for someone with an athlete's background and knee surgeries to prove it.
    The kit was about $230 or so delivered, as I recall.
    They merely say the brake lever can't be lowered to suit the lowered footpegs, but it's not too difficult if you care to putz with it.
    Since this wasn't the first peg-lowering I've ever done- her old NC700X and SV650S received the treatment- I was fine with the instructions given.
    To lower the at-rest height of the brake lever, I drilled and tapped an M6 hole in the lever's brake light activating pad as shown. The button head screw let me dial in the correct height pretty quickly.
    It's possible to accuse this household of being unusually picky about control ergonomics. We won't take offense.
    Yesterday's 200-mile test ride for lunch yielded no knee discomfort at all, almost to my surprise. So that was money well spent.
    There is one major problem with the kit as it installed on our bike- the kickstand tang is all but unreachable without dislocating ankle bones.
    For now, I added on a simple bent strap of 1/4" steel to the kickstand footie with longer, stronger screws. It works, without eloquence. It will need further refinement and at least a bit of paint.
    You can see it in the photo.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #2
    Points: 1,039, Level: 18

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    Hi Bill neat job on the lower height stop

    Can I ask if you've had any issues with the brake light staying on &/or binding brakes?
    Searching these forums, another posted that the brake light is activated immediately the lever is moved downwards (i.e. when braking on standard lever) If the lever is set lower, the brake light is activated "at rest" so to speak

    Also, they advised that the threaded rod twixt lever & master cylinder should NOT be adjusted to change lever height. They claimed that to do so caused brake binding & overheating (although why they didn't realise binding before their test ride is beyond me)


    Edit: Now realise the b/l switch is operated by the tang you added the M6 bolt to. (didn't read your post correctly)

    Done properly I can see that the b/l switch will operate correctly, and binding (or not) dependant on adjustment of the threaded rod
    Last edited by Ajaay; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:37 AM.
    Ajay

    F800GT 2018 

  5. #3
    Points: 997, Level: 17

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    Ajaay, so far there's been about 1000 miles covered since the modification and no issues have arisen whatsoever. Not a hint of brake binding or anything. The brake light switch has continued to work properly, too.
    I have come to consider this an essential mod. I probably wouldn't care to ride the bike much without it, at least with a lower seat. Maybe a tall Corbin might be less of a knee-binder but we are liking the way it is.
    I haven't done my standard peg-ground-clearance check (on a particularly suitable serpentine freeway entrance ramp nearby with perfect pavement and sight lines) so I can't speak to whether there's a lean-angle issue. I should do that, but a fifth-gen VFR followed me home Monday...
    Bill
    FJR1300, ZRX1100, VFR800, V-Strom 650, Ninja 400 (hers), F800ST (hers), SV650S (hers).
    In the avatar: 1967 BSA Royal Star 

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  7. #4
    Points: 1,039, Level: 18

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    Thanks for your feedback Bill. Experimenting at the mo' with a foam mat seat pad, before deciding whether to go for higher seat, or lower pegs kit.
    Ajay

    F800GT 2018 

  8. #5
    Randyjaco's Avatar
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    Hey Cherry, good write-up. The idea is sound. I did something similar when I installed mine. I would say that drilling and tapping for an M6 removes too much cross-section from the brake pedal shaft. Considering the amount of force exerted on the brake lever during a panic stop, that pedal lever might break and the end result could be bad. The amout of force required to trip the switch is minimal. A smaller diameter screw would be better. Something less than an M4. Thanks for the post.
    2010 F800ST 

  9. #6
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    Dave Watson
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    Randy. As I see it,Bill has drilled and tapped the tang that operates the brake light switch and determines where the pedal sits at rest. To me it doesn't appear to weaken the main pedal lever. Operating the brake would press the lever down, so would not put any strain on the tang itself. When at rest, the only force on the tang is upward by the return spring. Fairly minimal I'd have thought.

  10. #7
    Points: 997, Level: 17

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    Redned's description is accurate.
    No problems have resulted yet in over 1000 miles of use.
    Bill
    FJR1300, ZRX1100, VFR800, V-Strom 650, Ninja 400 (hers), F800ST (hers), SV650S (hers).
    In the avatar: 1967 BSA Royal Star 

  11. #8
    ccwatchmaker's Avatar
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    Modifying my brake lever, I used an M5 bolt. Drilling and tapping the brake lever tang would not seem to create any actual brake lever strength problems. The only load on the tang is the return spring pressure when the tang is against the stop in the footpeg bracket.

    Since making the modification, I find the lever in a much more convenient position relative to the footpeg. However, more than once, my foot has slipped off of that tiny pedal on the end of the lever. As a result, I fitted a Wunderlich pedal extender.

    Here are photographs, one of the newly fitted pedal extender on the '14 GT and also the brake pedal on my '72 R60/5. This is the pedal BMW should have used on the F800. Also, note the
    '72 footpeg is adjustable for height from the factory, also the pedal height is easily adjusted by turning the adjusting nut on the brake rod. So much for progress.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    James Sadilek -- ccwatchmaker
    In the garage: 1972 BMW R60/5 - 1983 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim - 2014 F800 GT
     

  12. #9
    Randyjaco's Avatar
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    Yeah, I stand corrected. The original picture looked like it was going through the shaft. When I looked at my own, it confirmed my error. Sorry Cherry.
    One of the problems of making comments from my easy chair rather than from my garage.
    2010 F800ST 

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  14. #10
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    Five minutes in the wake of posting this worry I returned to the carport and VOILA!. Got the pin to go in appropriately.

    I'll simply put it on Alzheimers or something.

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