Newbi questions on first self service

[KRTW]

I got my bike less than a week ago and have a lot to learn. On the hunt for a manual, but in the mean time I need to do a few things. The bike is a 2013 F800gs. Here are my immediate questions.
Do you use synthetic oil on your bike?
Where is a good place to buy after market parts for these in Canada?
How about purchasing things like oil filters from Amazon?
Do you really need an oil filter removal tool?

My immediate needs are an oil/filter change and a chain service and tighten....Not sure I have the tools for this, but once it warms up a bit today I'll find out. But I know I need Torx stuff - any suggestions on beginning tools and manufacturers?

Thanks.

[Runmyownlife]

Good questions to ask - there's lots of subjectivity here. Pretty hard to do this wrong, so keep that in mind as responses come in.

I strongly recommend a manual. I have both the Haynes hard copy and the BMW computer disc. Haynes is more picture and detail oriented but the pictures are black and white and small-ish. BMW uses schematics rather than pictures.

I'm in Alberta and because of the temperature range I will ride in (roughly 0c to 35c) plus personal preference, I choose full synthetic (group V, esther base) oil. The esther base is important - terms like "full synthetic" are marketing terms. Oil talk can go on forever.

I buy my filters from an auto parts store. There are plenty of brands to choose from - some better than others. There's lots of comparison data out there. Probably hard to go wrong if you use good oil (translation: lots of sacrificial molecules and cleaning agents.)

Oil filters should be hand tight. If the prior owner used a tool, your may have to as well to remove it.

FortNine.ca is a reliable source of both OEM and aftermarket items.

[MGD109]

.....Oil filters should be hand tight. If the prior owner used a tool, your may have to as well to remove it.....

For the cost I'd recommend just buying a filter remover. Even though they should be hand tight they always seem to be a bit tight trying to get them off.

[Richard230]

Most oil filters that I have bought tell you to install them until they just touch the engine base and then screw them in another 3/4 of a turn. Some filters have markings to allow you to determine how much they have been tightened. If not, you can use a piece of tape or a magic marker to keep track of the rotation.

[Lag]

I've been using the K&N or HI flow filters that come with the nut fixed on the end of the can, just in case, nothing more annoying then a stuck filter, its really easy to get a square grip with a ratchet,,. The BMW Motorrad Advantec Motor Oil, (its gone up a bit in price)but seems to be competitive with other brands at the local dealer at least last time I checked?

Andrew, I choose full synthetic (group V, esther base) oil. this sound like an interesting option, where this available, what weight, what price?

Lots of video on line for your chain maint. for your bike, simple tools and widely available products,,.

Don't forget the brake fluid, mine ended up with wax deposits even thou it looked clean,,.

Air filters another easy one,,.

[Runmyownlife]

Andrew, I choose full synthetic (group V, esther base) oil. this sound like an interesting option, where this available, what weight, what price?

I use Red Line 10w 40 (specified for operation at low temperatures) Roughly CDN$15 a litre. It's a one a year cost (for me) and saving maybe $10 or $20 to go with cheaper product doesn't comfort me.

Motul also offers group V Esther products.

Esther is a premium choice for a synthetic base stock ($$$) and so typically it's noted on the product. Go for any brand that posts the composition of the ingredients. (A data sheet.) Look for sacrificial molecules. In the good old days that was lead, now it's phosphorus and zinc.

[KRTW]

This bike is going to a lot of remote areas where synthetics may not be available. Is there an issue with switching back and forth between oil types. My intuition says no, as its the oil in there now that's doing the job....but I've wondered about this before.

Thanks for all the great responses. Will take care of this on the weekend.....and I still need some tools.

[Richard230]

Although oil manufacturers recommend against mixing brands and oil types (as you might expect), I have been doing it for years without any problems. I have even mixed Group V synthetic oils with "legacy" real dinosaur oil and it still seems to lubricate well. I refer my mixing of oil as being semi-synthetic.

[Ciscas]

Hello there, also a new member myself so don’t have much experience either.
I do find the user manual has a lot of information regarding maintenance.
You can download one here https://www.bmw-motorrad.com/en/serv...er-manual.html
Did my first oil change yesterday and I could not for the heck of it get the filter off without a tool which I haven’t got. So I ended up (very carefully) ploughing a screwdriver through the side to make a handle. Very messy but it works.

[Runmyownlife]

This bike is going to a lot of remote areas where synthetics may not be available. Is there an issue with switching back and forth between oil types. My intuition says no, as its the oil in there now that's doing the job....but I've wondered about this before.

Thanks for all the great responses. Will take care of this on the weekend.....and I still need some tools.

Probably not an issue, particularly if only mixed infrequently. A group V Esther product should be good for roughly 10,000 km (many variables here....) So I don't imagine you'll need too many oil changes in remote areas.

There's virtually no oil loss in these motors, so top ups won't be necessary.

[Sundog52]

If you are in it for the long haul, you will need the following high quality tools:

Torque wrench (Nm or FtLb)
Oil filter wrench (OEM p/n 11 4 650)
Set of Torx for:
T10 left control housing
T20 throttle assembly
T25 fairings, control, body work
T30 muffler mount, signals, motor chassis, rotor
T40 triple clamp, brake pivot, rear rotor, brake line
T45 body, exhaust mount, fork axle pinch bolts, controls
T50 Bar Ends

and Torx sockets for:

E8 gear shift lever
E10 handlebar clamps, eccentric clamp and adjuster
E12 Front Caliper brakes

As for dealing with Amazon, I use them for oil ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

For oil change: 10mm Drain plug (Hex). My F800GT specifies a torque setting of 11 Nm for the Oil Filter. This might explain why a wrench is need for removal. 40 Nm is used for the drain plug torque. I always use a new drain plug gasket ring (OEM p/n 11417652949) at oil changes. The following filters might work too:
K&N OIL FILTER, KN-160 (Walmart)
Mahle OIL FILTER, OC619 (Amazon, RockAuto)

[KRTW]

Sundog - thank you....Lots of great info, but I need just a little more help - until my manual arrives, I don't know what model numbers of anything I need. The main things I want to accomplish are: an oil and oil filter change (covered above), an air filter change and to bleed the front brakes and replace the fluid. Proper brake fluids that I need? The manual is on order. I got my chain serviced, cleaned, measured, and checked out this morning. I've also ordered a rear mud guard to help keep the rear spring clean. My first mod. I also got my first off-road riding in last night....1 week today, over 700 km, and now the learning process begins in earnest. Thanks.

[Richard230]

Brake fluid is any DOT 4 product. My air filters have always come from the BMW parts department, however there may be an after-market option which I am not familiar with.

[Sundog52]

Sundog - thank you....Lots of great info, but I need just a little more help - until my manual arrives, I don't know what model numbers of anything I need.... an air filter change and to bleed the front brakes and replace the fluid.

I'm with Richard on the air filter, but an after market option is a Mahle (LX 1293) filter from the BeemerShop. Bleeding the brakes is a bit more tricky. I changed out my OEM bleed valves for a set of Speed Bleeders. These made the job much easier. Part numbers are as follows:

Speed Bleeders size for the GT:

Front……SB8125L (SB8125L-SS Stainless Steel)
Stahlbus Bleeder Valve SB-110311
Rear…… SB1010S (SB1010S-SS Stainless Steel)
Stahlbus Bleeder Valve SB-110412

You can go to their websites to get the correct size for your bike.

After performing the correct procedure for bleeding, I used my GS-911 ( https://www.hexcode.co.za/ ) to exercise the ABS circuits so that no air stays in the system. Hope this helps.

[Sundog52]

BTW KRTW, to help others on this forum help you, it would be a good idea to complete your member profile. Especially where you are from

[KRTW]

Doing that right now - thanks - tons of great info - found a BMW dvd - its on the way...

[KRTW]

Seeking a GS-911 on the used market...looking at the rest of the stuff you mention. There is a TON of great information on youtube about servicing the F800 - and I'm watching them all.