Won't start without SOME throttle - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    Strange thing happened this evening and I tried finding a similar issue on the forums but couldn't. 2012 F800gs - 27,000 miles.

    I had the bike idling on the center stand as I was checking some voltage readings for an upcoming stator replacement. Nothing was taken apart other than plastics. Bike was idling just fine.

    I shut the bike off and then a few minutes later I went back to start it and it wouldn't start with the throttle in the closed position. But, if I gave it some throttle, it would fire right up. The moment I let off the throttle it would immediately die, almost as if someone had hit the killswitch. It was a smooth shut off - no puttering or anything. Just.... off. So I attempted startup again, this time holding the throttle at maybe 10%. Started just fine. And, it continued running as long as there was just a dash of throttle... like 3-5mm of throttle cable.

    When attempting to start the bike with no throttle added, after roughly .5s of the starter engaging, I will get a few fires in the cylinders but it won't keep the bike going. Only with some throttle will it actually start, and then only with some throttle will it stay running at idle.

    I assumed maybe it was the throttle position sensor and tried resetting using the 1) bike on 2) throttle full open, hold 5s, close 3) repeat for a total of 5 cycles 4) ignition off 5) wait 15s and turn on / resume starting attempts. Nothing different.

    I also tried removing the negative battery cable and touching it to the positive post/cable - read somewhere that this resets the computer. Nothing.

    I see that there is a small adjustment screw that adjusts where the throttle cable/cam rests. It seems like a turn or two of that would move that position by just enough to fix the issue, however, that seems like a temporary fix. Maybe not? I'm concerned that this just happened out of nowhere with seemingly no explanation.

    Any direction is appreciated!

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  3. #2
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    Seems to be charcoal canister-related. I removed the airbox to start checking things. With the airbox completely removed, bike fired right up with no issues and no need for throttle.

    Troubleshot different hoses and the idle actuator valve. When I got to the three small hoses that connect to the T at the rear of the airbox, I disconnected the center hose and the bike ran as normal. I'm new to the GS family but I've heard about removing the charcoal canister to prevent over-fueling issues. Am I best to simply remove the canister/filtering system?

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    Continued troubleshooting and found that the fuel tank breather valve is not opening. I pulled the valve and put 12v to it straight from the battery and it opened with no issue. I then checked the voltage from the wires that run to the breather valve and with the key on but the bike off, it was 9.1v and with the bike running it was 10.1v.

    I have a new battery arriving next week and the gasket for the right engine cover (to replace the stator) coming next week as well. At this point, I'm assuming it's either the battery or the stator. Is there anything else I can do to troubleshoot before assuming one of these two possibilities is the fix? I have no idea what voltage is supposed to be going to the breather valve.

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    Your problem could be a sensor in the emission system failing, or a rubber vacuum hose leaking, or a wire connector or ground wire has corrosion that needs to be cleaned. But if your battery voltage is below 12V when measured across the battery terminals, then for sure your battery is toast. I don't think I would invest in a stator unless a new battery didn't solve the problem with your voltage. I would try a new voltage regulator first. But just replacing parts is probably not the best approach and more investigation or research might be needed. Perhaps a GS-911 or a similar device might be useful in checking over your fuel injection system.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

  7. #5
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    The stator/regulator replacement was unrelated to this specific issue and, to some extent, preventative.

    I have a trip coming up in about 2 weeks and, worst-case scenario, if I'm unable to resolve before that trip does disconnecting the fuel tank breather valve cause any long-term damage? This is the valve between the throttle body and the charcoal canister.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bladeandpaper View Post
    The stator/regulator replacement was unrelated to this specific issue and, to some extent, preventative.

    I have a trip coming up in about 2 weeks and, worst-case scenario, if I'm unable to resolve before that trip does disconnecting the fuel tank breather valve cause any long-term damage? This is the valve between the throttle body and the charcoal canister.
    I have removed the charcoal canister and related switches and plumbing on my Yamaha F1, my old 1997 BMW Funduro, the 2005 Triumph Bonneville and my Royal Enfield Bullet, (all of which had carburetors) without any problems. But I have not done that with a modern BMW, which might throw a fault code if the plumbing gets removed. If you do remove the canister you need to be careful to make sure that the fuel tank is vented to the atmosphere and all of the vacuum ports are plugged. If your bike runs OK with the canister removed, it might be worth just removing it and the associated plumbing. If that solves your issue, then I would surmise that the valve that works the system has failed or the wiring to the valve has a short or corrosion on the connectors.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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    Could it be the idle actuator, which provides bypass air when the throttle valve is completely closed?

    Talking theory because I never had the need to mess with the idle actuator.

    /Guenther
    2017 F700GS - I wish it had a drive shaft 

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    Quote Originally Posted by guenner View Post
    Could it be the idle actuator, which provides bypass air when the throttle valve is completely closed?

    Talking theory because I never had the need to mess with the idle actuator.

    /Guenther

    I'm wondering this as well. I put 12v directly to the idle actuator and it didn't really move. Should it? I've seen some youtube videos of the valve moving. With the ignition on, I'm not really hearing anything or seeing movement.

    I'll search around for more info on troubleshooting that specific part.

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    Do you here something when you add/remove the 12V? They say it's a buzzing noise.

    /Guenther
    2017 F700GS - I wish it had a drive shaft 

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    Cleaning the IACS - (Idle air control solenoid) is not very difficult , and I have found it needs to be done fairly regularly:
    it also has no parts cost some details here:

    http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...#post-29759078

    I am 99% certain the IACS is a stepper motor and won't turn when you apply voltage.
    GS-911 or motoscan would identify the problem quickly.
    I have a GS-911 and it has a re-calibrate function for the IACS.
    The IACS makes a very distinctive noise during re-cal. when working correctly.

    Either device would allow you to check for stored "fault codes" and might give you some clues.

    Even if the evap. vent/solinoid has failed I can't see how that would cause your issue....
    but ... I'm old...
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrwooden View Post
    Cleaning the IACS - (Idle air control solenoid) is not very difficult , and I have found it needs to be done fairly regularly:
    it also has no parts cost some details here:

    http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...#post-29759078

    I am 99% certain the IACS is a stepper motor and won't turn when you apply voltage.
    GS-911 or motoscan would identify the problem quickly.
    I have a GS-911 and it has a re-calibrate function for the IACS.
    The IACS makes a very distinctive noise during re-cal. when working correctly.

    Either device would allow you to check for stored "fault codes" and might give you some clues.

    Even if the evap. vent/solinoid has failed I can't see how that would cause your issue....
    but ... I'm old...
    I was about to post something similar.

    As I understand it when the ignition is switched on the ECU needs to position the valve in a known position. It does this by sending a sufficient number of pulses to fully close it. It then opens the valve a given amount and makes fine adjustments to keep the desired idel speed.

    Sometimes you can hear the initial positioning when you first turn on the ignition.

    I would start by pulling the valve out and making sure that it is clean along with the passage and valve seat. I would then do the re-calibration as @jrwooden suggests.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrwooden View Post
    Cleaning the IACS - (Idle air control solenoid) is not very difficult , and I have found it needs to be done fairly regularly:
    it also has no parts cost some details here:

    http://advrider.com/index.php?thread...#post-29759078

    I am 99% certain the IACS is a stepper motor and won't turn when you apply voltage.
    GS-911 or motoscan would identify the problem quickly.
    I have a GS-911 and it has a re-calibrate function for the IACS.
    The IACS makes a very distinctive noise during re-cal. when working correctly.

    Either device would allow you to check for stored "fault codes" and might give you some clues.

    Even if the evap. vent/solinoid has failed I can't see how that would cause your issue....
    but ... I'm old...
    What did you use to clean the IACS? Did the gunk wipe off easily or require some sort of solvent?
    Kevin
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    Thanks all. From what I can see in the airbox, the IACS appears fully closed when installed. When I turn the ignition, nothing changes - no "brrrrr/grrrrrr" noises. The IACS has been cleaned/degunked. I have a GS911 on order (bit the bullet). I'll wait to replace the IACS until that tool can possibly confirm. I'm assuming if I run the IACS calibration and nothing moves, that the motor is shot?

    There's not any other known way to test the motor/IACS valve in the interim that anyone knows, right?

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    I used throttle-body cleaner on an "industrial" q-tip to clean the end of the solenoid and the "seat" in the side of the air box.
    Not difficult, just takes a bit of time as (at least on mine the deposits were thick) and don't want to leave any fuzz behind.
    I think pretty much any cleaner would be ok ...
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bladeandpaper View Post
    Thanks all. From what I can see in the airbox, the IACS appears fully closed when installed. When I turn the ignition, nothing changes - no "brrrrr/grrrrrr" noises. The IACS has been cleaned/degunked. I have a GS911 on order (bit the bullet). I'll wait to replace the IACS until that tool can possibly confirm. I'm assuming if I run the IACS calibration and nothing moves, that the motor is shot?

    There's not any other known way to test the motor/IACS valve in the interim that anyone knows, right?
    There are a bunch of videos on "how stepper motors work" ... basically they have several "sets" of leads and by applying very short bursts of power you can
    "walk" the armature around in a circle by applying the current to the leads in the right order.

    They are not designed to have power applied all the time ... so you might have cooked it when you touched it off to 12V ...
    Was that you that did that?)

    it is only designed to take a very short burst of power to each set of leads (low duty cycle).

    So once you have the GS-911 you can do the recalibration
    I would do it with the unit installed in the bike so it doesn't over-travel
    If it is working you will hear an unmistakable series of whiring-clicks.

    In the mean time.....

    Here is what BMW prvoides as a schematic:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	BMW IACS.jpg 
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    Use a volt-ohm meter set to the low-ohms scale and I "THINK" you should readings like this:

    a few ohms across the outer (pair) red/black
    a few ohms across the inner pair blue/purple
    and if you measure from any of the wires to the metal body of the IACS you should get "infinite" resistance


    If one pair has a few ohms, and the other pair reads infinite ... you probably burned it up...
    If you are LUCKY and happened to apply voltage across two wires that are not a "pair" then likely no harm done.

    Keep us posted!
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

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    They are not designed to have power applied all the time
    How else would a stepper motor provide a 'holding force'?

    /Guenther
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    Does anyone believe that the sorts of fuel system problems that we are reading about on a regular basis here on the forum are caused by owners using other than "top tier" brands of gasoline? If one searches the web, there are a number of fuel brands, maybe 40, that are listed as top tier. For me, it is either Shell or Chevron. Certainly, the major automobile manufacturers, including BMW, are recommending the use of top tier fuel.

    So, one pays a bit more per gallon for the top brands. How does this compare with the cost of having to repair/replace fuel system components? It seems to me that the money spent on one trip to the motorcycle shop would cover the fuel cost differential for a very long time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by guenner View Post
    How else would a stepper motor provide a 'holding force'?

    /Guenther
    I agree with @guenner. While the step results from the application of a pulse there is then a constant current to hold the motor in its position. I experience this with my 3D printer where a stepper motor turns a threaded shaft to create linear motion. If you try to rotate the shaft by hand the motor fights you. When the power is off the shaft turns freely.

    Having said that I don't endorse applying voltage to the stepper blindly. We don't even know if it is a 12V stepper.

    I would remove the IAC from the tunnel then attempt to move the valve manually in the open direction while the ignition is off (if it will move with a minimum of force - not sure if this will work given that a linear movement of the valve would have to spin the motor). Then turn on the ignition and watch if it moves.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwroadsterca View Post
    I agree with @guenner. While the step results from the application of a pulse there is then a constant current to hold the motor in its position. I experience this with my 3D printer where a stepper motor turns a threaded shaft to create linear motion. If you try to rotate the shaft by hand the motor fights you. When the power is off the shaft turns freely.

    Having said that I don't endorse applying voltage to the stepper blindly. We don't even know if it is a 12V stepper.

    I would remove the IAC from the tunnel then attempt to move the valve manually in the open direction while the ignition is off (if it will move with a minimum of force - not sure if this will work given that a linear movement of the valve would have to spin the motor). Then turn on the ignition and watch if it moves.

    12v+ was coming into the stepper from the connector/cable per the multimeter. Thanks JRWooden - a lot of great info there! I'm definitely not throwing out that I may have fried the valve.

    One question remains. If I simply remove the IACV out OR disconnect the 3rd vacuum hose that comes from the T and goes into the tank breather valve (eventually to the canister), thereby allowing the throttle bodies to just take in air from that line when in idle (could throw a little in-line filter for safety).... is there any long-term damage that this creates? Mostly trying to have a backup plan for the upcoming trip in the event I can't get this properly diagnosed beforehand. Long term, I'd correct it properly. Time is not my friend right now!

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    Quote Originally Posted by guenner View Post
    How else would a stepper motor provide a 'holding force'?

    /Guenther
    Some use permanent magnets ... some do not, I'm no expert

    https://circuitdigest.com/tutorial/w...d-how-it-works

    the rabbit hole goes pretty deep if you want to keep going....................

    since we don't know which style BMW uses ... I'd advise caution.
    I have burned up more than my fair share of stepper motors...
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

  23. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bladeandpaper View Post
    12v+ was coming into the stepper from the connector/cable per the multimeter. Thanks JRWooden - a lot of great info there! I'm definitely not throwing out that I may have fried the valve.

    One question remains. If I simply remove the IACV out OR disconnect the 3rd vacuum hose that comes from the T and goes into the tank breather valve (eventually to the canister), thereby allowing the throttle bodies to just take in air from that line when in idle (could throw a little in-line filter for safety).... is there any long-term damage that this creates? Mostly trying to have a backup plan for the upcoming trip in the event I can't get this properly diagnosed beforehand. Long term, I'd correct it properly. Time is not my friend right now!
    Disclaimer: I am a moron... I trust me with my bike... I'm not sure you should trust me with your bike ...

    but here's what I think:

    you shouldn't take the IACS out of the circuit.
    It adjusts the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plates so as to control the idle speed,
    and it does it very often ... when cold it makes the bike idles-up, and then as it warms it
    it makes the bike idles down via computer control

    as the IACS extends it reduces the flow of air to the throttle bodies and the idle speed is reduced
    as it retracts the air flow and idle speed increase

    I'm not sure WTF is wrong with your bike, but here's one thing an idiot (like me) would try:

    Take the IACS out of the bike
    put a sharpie mark on it and then "unscrew" it all the way and count the turns (minimum airflow / minimum idle speed position - liely stalling like your bike is doing)

    now screw it all the way in counting the turns again.

    So ...
    say that when you take it out its at 5 turns in

    and the total range is 10 turns
    adjust the position so that it inbetween those two numbers

    so say ... screwed in 8 turns out of a max of 10 when it was at 5 to begin with...

    now reinstall the damn thing and see if you can start it with no throttle.

    Screwed in farther should allow more air thus higher idle speed if you see what I'm getting at?

    If the bike starts it may start to rev.
    have your hand on the key or the kill switch...

    if it does rev. and then DOES NOT COME BACK TO A RATIONAL IDLE SPEED
    and idiot like me would conclude that the IAC circuit is likely dicked up ...
    and likely thats the IACS
    IMHO
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

  24. #22
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    Well, that could be my issue. You should be able to turn the IACV by hand? I definitely cannot do that. I've not taken pliers to it... yet. But it's definitely seized in the position it's in currently. Thinking it's toast. GS911 arrives Wednesday. Probably just going to buy a valve in speculation that the valve is the culprit. T-9 days before I'm desert bound... you know, in July. In a heatwave.

    Great idea on the test!
    Last edited by Bladeandpaper; 06-21-21 at 10:16 PM. Reason: Edit

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    Yeah... I am 99.9% confident it should turn with ease... it will be "notchy" as it goes from position to position but should turn without much effort.

    I have a buddy that has one on his work bench (In costa rica) and asked him to test that for me ...

    Not sure what a new one costs from the dealer... might find one on eBay..
    I'll post back when he replies. but yeah I'd start trying to source a part.
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

  26. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrwooden View Post
    Yeah... I am 99.9% confident it should turn with ease...
    it will be "notchy" as it goes from position to position but should turn without much effort.

    I have a buddy that has one on his work bench (In costa rica) and asked him to test that for me ...

    Not sure what a new one costs from the dealer... might find one on eBay..
    I'll post back when he replies. but yeah I'd start trying to source a part.

    HOLD ON .... i stand corrected ...
    I must have gotten my bikes confused....

    The F800GS IACS does NOT turn by hand.....

    Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo
    I guess GS-911 time unless you can find a "temporary donor" bike?




    Or.................
    I can't remember where the o-ring seal is on the IACS...
    what if you took it off and put a THIN shim under each mounting ear between the IACS and the airbox...
    maybe like "business card" thick...?

    I'm just brainstorming here ... and it's not a strong storm ..........
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

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    Hmmmmmmmmmmmm this seems a decent generic test that should work for our bikes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEGItKeg970
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

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    It would appear that I have my answer. the GS 911 arrived today. Upon idle actuator valve calibration.... nothing. I hear it trying to do something which sounds what the BRRRR should sound like but just.... incredibly quiet. Like, if the plastics were on it and the airbox closed up, you wouldn't hear it at all. Thinking the valve is toast.

    While I was at it, I was able to actuate the fuel tank breather valve and it works fine. My initial hunch on that mostly had to do with me not fully understanding the plumbing which, thanks to this little pain in the butt, I understand now!

    Ordered a new IACV from MAX BMW today - hoping it arrives in time. If not, I'm planning to ship it to my first stop and install it there. Thanks for the troubleshooting, Jim (and others!). I feel a little silly now as I should have just trusted the forums on this one but hopefully by symptom descriptions will help a few others. I'll report back a final time to ensure that the IACV was to blame.

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    Well... The peculiarity continues.

    After testing, I pulled the part and decided, "what the heck, I ordered a new one anyways. I might as well see if I can get some vice grips on this and turn it."

    It was tough at first, but then it started to rotate. I wouldn't call it "rotating freely," and you could definitely feel the steps. I loosened it until it was fully extended and then I did the reverse, tightening it down (which would make the air passageway open). I then backed it off again. I ran the test while holding the valve. It moved. And it kept moving - and at the normal BRRRRR/GRRRR volume. In fact, it extended so far that the pintle actually shot off the part. I found the pieces and spring and reassembled them. I tightened the pintle to what felt like the 50% mark.

    I reinstalled the part and ran the calibration again and boom - it's moving around in there just like it should.

    Put the airbox together. Reattached all the plumbing. Performed a final calibration. Bike started right up and idled fine. Gave it gas and watched the IACV close. Let off throttle and watched it open. Everything seems fine.

    THE ONLY CONCERN

    The IACV is freaking hot to the touch! This concerns me. Does anyone have a bike opened up and can able to confirm the idle air control valve is hot to the touch?

  30. #28
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    Damn that's interesting as hell.
    Yes, stepper motors based on permanent magnets do have distinct "detents"

    So the "motor" end of yours must have been gunked up... and you have at least temporarily freed it!

    My bike is not handy right now so I can't do a temp. check for you, but I honestly don't tihnk it should be hot.
    It really shouldn't be "working that hard" that is to say the computer driving it in and out to adjust the idle shouldn't be
    having to pass enough current thru it to heat it up....

    Are you getting any fault codes reported from the GS-911 ?
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

  31. #29
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    PS: at SOME point in the future ... when you have things all sorted you have to take the old one apart and post pics!

    Please.................
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrwooden View Post
    Damn that's interesting as hell.
    Yes, stepper motors based on permanent magnets do have distinct "detents"

    So the "motor" end of yours must have been gunked up... and you have at least temporarily freed it!

    My bike is not handy right now so I can't do a temp. check for you, but I honestly don't tihnk it should be hot.
    It really shouldn't be "working that hard" that is to say the computer driving it in and out to adjust the idle shouldn't be
    having to pass enough current thru it to heat it up....

    Are you getting any fault codes reported from the GS-911 ?

    None. GS911 says we're ship-shape. I'm going to travel w the new valve assuming it arrives in time, in case it fails on my trip. Otherwise, I'm going to just keep using the current one until it craps out. I'll definitely deconstruct and post images when it does.

    On the topic of heat - I turned the bike on and off several times this morning and it stayed cool to the touch. Ran the bike and varied the idle - stayed cool. So bizarre. It could've just been the residual heat that was left in it from when it was gunked up and being overworked. After a night of chilling out, it seemed fine today. I truly have no idea.

    Again, the most baffling part of this whole thing for me is... it was running fine, and then on the next startup it just... quit. So the idea that I just happened to catch it deciding "enough is enough, I'm done" bc it was jammed up seems so improbable. Yet, after forcing it around a bit and freeing it up, it works fine - so it also seems the most likely explanation?!?!

    If I learn anything new over the next few days, I'll report back. For now, I feel that the case is closed - though not in a particularly satisfying way!

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  34. #31
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    what I can tell you is that in bike electrics (as indeed general auto motives)-----if there is an analogue sensor involved ---the signal might be something other than 12v ----but almost certainly if you are operating a valve etc. its going to be 12v!----looks to me like you have a high resistance in the feed , not uncommon on motorcycles ----trace back the feed physically through the wiring loom---checking voltage at each connector.

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    For the truly intrepid it looks like you could assemble a manual idle control or alternatively a circuit to test IAC operation.

    https://youtu.be/NrUIs_Jw3RQ

    Like this guy did.
    https://www.240turbo.com/idleaircontrol.html
    Last edited by bmwroadsterca; 06-23-21 at 09:35 PM.

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    Sounds like it could be a blocked/squashed fuel tank breather?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bladeandpaper View Post
    Again, the most baffling part of this whole thing for me is... it was running fine, and then on the next startup it just... quit. So the idea that I just happened to catch it deciding "enough is enough, I'm done" bc it was jammed up seems so improbable. Yet, after forcing it around a bit and freeing it up, it works fine - so it also seems the most likely explanation?!?!

    If I learn anything new over the next few days, I'll report back. For now, I feel that the case is closed - though not in a particularly satisfying way!
    Yeah.... it sure seems like there would have been a few symptoms along the way that would have been clear ... at least in retrospect....
    Not idling-up when cold or not idling down as it warms up ... SOMETHING...

    Weird that it was getting hot, no longer is doing that...

    To me (the idiot... remember ) that would most likely be caused by the IAS / IACS "consuming" too much power.
    Say a partial short in the windings, or some gunk in there partially binding up the motion making it harder to move and thus
    consuming more current.

    The problem with that is that the bike's computer BMSK might not be designed to cover that "over-current" condition,
    and it it goes on too long it could damage that circuit in the BMSK. Just a thought ... but if it were me, and I had a new one in-hand...
    I'd install it!

    I'm not saying it would/will blow up your BMSK but I do think there is at least a small risk of that,
    and that would be a shitshow you really don't want to see!
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

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    Quote Originally Posted by guscsr65 View Post
    what I can tell you is that in bike electrics (as indeed general auto motives)-----if there is an analogue sensor involved ---the signal might be something other than 12v ----but almost certainly if you are operating a valve etc. its going to be 12v!----looks to me like you have a high resistance in the feed , not uncommon on motorcycles ----trace back the feed physically through the wiring loom---checking voltage at each connector.
    Definitely not an electronics guy. I can use a multimeter and I can google/yt my way to mediocre results. From my Haynes, the diagram looks as follows. I interpret this to mean there aren't any connectors between the valve and the ECU?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  39. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bladeandpaper View Post
    Definitely not an electronics guy. I can use a multimeter and I can google/yt my way to mediocre results. From my Haynes, the diagram looks as follows. I interpret this to mean there aren't any connectors between the valve and the ECU?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	bXPWBeq.png 
Views:	17 
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ID:	373497
    Only the connectors at each end - one at the IAC and one at the ECU (part of a larger connector).

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