Fork Seal and Parts - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    Hi F800 members,

    I have a 2016 F800GT and has a right-side leaking fork seal. Took it to Shop to have it replaced and repaired and they used an aftermarket seal and dust cover but did not solve the leak (this is after multiple attempts.) Looking for a Reliable Shop recommendation in Jacksonville, FL which has experience with BMW motorcycles and site for OEM parts.

    Thanks in advance.

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  3. #2
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    Personally, i'd service the forks as the bike is now 5 years old. Replace the seals, dust covers and bushes if needed, plus refresh the oil.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, Denali Spotlights, Denali CANSmart, Wunderlich Crash Bars, 62K Miles & counting 

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJ123 View Post
    Personally, i'd service the forks as the bike is now 5 years old. Replace the seals, dust covers and bushes if needed, plus refresh the oil.
    Thank you for the response. The shop that worked on the bike replaced the seals, dust covers and put fresh oil but it still leaks. Heard about German makes tend to not like aftermarket parts and thought that might be the reason. Do you think that would be the case? or for fork seals the bushes must be replaced?

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  6. #4
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    It may be they did not seat the seals correctly and ensure the surfaces of the stanchion and the lower fork leg were clean/clear of any debris that would prevent a good seal.

    IIRC the forks on the F series are a standard size, so even aftermarket ones should be ok.
    BMW F800ST, 2010, Black, Fuzeblock, Sat Nav, BMW Tank Bag, Givi Touring Screen, Denali Spotlights, Denali CANSmart, Wunderlich Crash Bars, 62K Miles & counting 

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  8. #5
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    No harm in using OEM seals from a dealer if you wish but you'll be fine with getting them from your local bearing supplies as long as you ask for and get the correct size. (Check your Haynes rather than measure the ones that the shop installed).

    If they keep leaking shortly after replacing, and you've used the specified fork oil weight and quantity when doing the job, then it's either down to cack handed installation or the forks need inspection/rebuild as DJ123 has already mentioned.

    Any corrosion or debris on the swept portion of the stanchions?


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  9. #6
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    Yeah I think the shop just didn't know the specs, fluid level, capacity and all. Thanks again for the info.

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    Dude, your shop scewed up. These forks are the exact same size as many other forks out there. This is one of the very few generic parts on this bike. Seals and dust covers cost like $30. Standard install procedure. I replaced a couple bushings last time, but mine has over 60k miles on it. The only thing BMW about it is taking them off the bike and putting them back on. Besides maybe the oil volume... That should be filled to 120mm from the top. Should be about 500 to 520ml per fork (depending on how dry you got it).

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  12. #8
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    If the fork leaks then the shop screwed up. Go back and make them do it right. You paid for it, they owe you.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

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    Had them try re-fix it a few times but they still failed. In the end they refunded the whole amount. Anyone have any shop recommendations in Jacksonville, FL?

  14. #10
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    I did the complete job myself this spring using All Balls dust covers and seals and genuine BMW bushings (no aftermarket parts for these around here). My leaking fork had some visible chrome wear and both had stone chips. I used cyanoacrylate glue to fill the pin holes and proceed to wet sanding 800 to 4000grit. Polished with a pasted sealant. Installed some home made stone guard to prevent further chipping. It is now 5000km later and still no leaks.

  15. #11
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    Thank you all for the tips and responses. At the moment without a garage so won't be able to do this on my own. Hopefully will find a shop that knows what they are doing to fix it.

  16. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJK311 View Post
    Thank you all for the tips and responses. At the moment without a garage so won't be able to do this on my own. Hopefully will find a shop that knows what they are doing to fix it.
    Putting the seal over the inner fork tube is the most likely means of scratching the seal lip preventing it from ever making a good seal.

    There are purpose-made guides to put over the fork tube to protect the seal, but a good plastic sheet will get the job done. For example a heavier "freezer" Zip-loc bag. Cut the Zip-loc part off, put the bag over the end of the fork tube, then oil it and slip the seal over the bag.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

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  18. #13
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    When I don't have the right size guide I use wax paper, the kind you'd use for baking. A light smear of fork oil will 'glue' it in place and the seal will slide over the tube nicely.

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  20. #14
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    N4HHE validates what BMW Oranve CA told me after a badly leaking left fork was repaired by independent shop for $180 lasting about 1-3 months before leak returned. Eventually I took it to BMW and they explained the replacement seal has very low tolerances and can easily be damaged causing subsequent leakage. So BMW redid it and no leaks yet & I'm checking a lot. 2 year parts & labor warranty. Now I need 'em to determine cause of klunkmeister sound in clutch basket.

  21. #15
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    not the 800-----but I had similar problem on an old K100-----the mech. an independent who was highly thought of. ----we agreed to go to 'motoworks' ---a UK company who specialise in BMWs----(has good online store) sourced original BWM seals----they looked a whole lot different-----same size but softer material and somewhat chunkier. solved the issue after three sets of OEM,. Have done a few sets myself (K100, Honda CBF1000, Honda VRF800, Yamaha 750) for myself and to help out a buddy, Its not rocket science but it needs to be done methodically -----patiently and it takes 4 hours which is why they are so expensive to get done. i remember that the K100 , not the one mentioned earlier still leaked and needed a new stanchion ----there was no obvious pitting or wear , and it measured OK (with the cheap mic I had) BUT I guess must have been worn or very slightly bent ----the new (old) one did the trick.

  22. #16
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    yes , hope you get some answers about the klunking----I have a 2014----its spoiling what is a very good bike , love to hear about your experience---

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