Not charging - Stator dead? 6 volt, but engine kept running with instrument panel off - BMW F800 Riders Forum & Registry



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  1. #1
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    Found my bike is not charging because my USB charger voltage keep dropping, it was night.
    I have a lithium battery with only 4AH capacity, I turn off heated grip with only headlight on.
    Before long the instrument panel got turn off entirely, then later USB and GPS chargers all quit as well.

    But somehow the engine keeps running? The last voltage displayed was 6.xx
    I was still 15 miles from home.

    Anyway I got home and quite amazed how can engine keeps running with such low voltage...

    Karl
    2009 F650GS

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  3. #2
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    How do I test whether stator or a/c regulator is dead?

    Btw, I would like a bigger capacity stator than stock one.
    Anyone know who can rewind it with bigger capacity.

  4. #3
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    You will need a multi-meter.

    There are three primary wires coming from the stator. Each will yield AC (not DC) voltage. Set the meter to AC.

    Follow the wire harness from the stator to the connector. The leads from the multi-meter can be inserted from the back side of the connector - no need to remove it. It's been a while but I believe the three wires you are going to test are yellow.

    Test Y1 and Y2
    Test Y1 and Y3
    Test Y2 and Y3

    You should have 40-80 volts AC from each test, depending on RPMs.

    There are good YouTube videos. Google How To Test a 3 Phase Regulator Rectifier.

    You can also test the rectifier if your multi-meter is capable of testing diodes. YouTube videos exist for that too.
    Concrete remains undefeated. 

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  7. #4
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    Thanks

    Yes, the connector is above the regulator which is covered by plastic piece.

    Tested it and found one of the output has only three volt, the rest of two has about 9 volt. so the stator is bad.

    I found this website selling them, they also sell gasket:

    https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/pr...statorf800.htm

  8. #5
    N4HHE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlcchen View Post
    Thanks

    Yes, the connector is above the regulator which is covered by plastic piece.

    Tested it and found one of the output has only three volt, the rest of two has about 9 volt. so the stator is bad.

    I found this website selling them, they also sell gasket:

    https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/pr...statorf800.htm
    Never heard of them. Rick's has been in business many decades. And has a lower price. Rick's can rebuild your stator if you wish, which is really handy if you have an exotic and your stator is the only one in existence.

    You can't really get a higher output stator without getting stronger magnets in the flywheel. There is only a few percent of improvement possible because you can't make more electrical energy than is available from the magnets.

    https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...-Stator-21_023
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

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  10. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by N4HHE View Post
    Never heard of them. Rick's has been in business many decades. And has a lower price. Rick's can rebuild your stator if you wish, which is really handy if you have an exotic and your stator is the only one in existence.

    You can't really get a higher output stator without getting stronger magnets in the flywheel. There is only a few percent of improvement possible because you can't make more electrical energy than is available from the magnets.

    https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...-Stator-21_023
    Thanks, finally realized motorcycle's alternator system is different from the car's :-)

    This is the first time I buy from EuroMotoElectrics.com, its stator does come with BMW plug so I don't need to solder anything.
    I do find EME has some other BMW stock parts at decent price.

  11. #7
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    EME is a reputable supplier.

    Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

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    Just for the record here is another good supplier. This one is in Quebec Canada.
    https://rmstator.com/en_ca/generator...00st-2005-2018

  13. #9
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    I just received my new alternator coil from EME , that's so fast, because according to USPS estimate it was supposed to arrive two days later!
    I ordered last Friday and it got here in Monday, I am in California and they are shipped from Denver Colorado!
    It is also packaged very professional, I will definitely doing more business with the company in the future

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    Quote Originally Posted by karlcchen View Post
    I just received my new alternator coil from EME , that's so fast, because according to USPS estimate it was supposed to arrive two days later!
    I ordered last Friday and it got here in Monday, I am in California and they are shipped from Denver Colorado!
    It is also packaged very professional, I will definitely doing more business with the company in the future
    Talk about fast: I ordered some brake parts for my Royal Enfield from a source in the UK last Tuesday afternoon and they arrived at my home in California yesterday (Monday) via DHL Express. Shipping by DHL Express cost $30. I might add that the brake parts cost roughly one fourth that of similar parts that BMW would have charged me for my non-ABS, single front brake F650GS. Plus, they came as an entire assembly, instead of me needing to buy individual pieces one by one and then bolt them together to put the entire assembly together.

    Just to give you an example of BMW's crazy U.S. retail parts prices for my F650GS, here are some comparisons: The entire Royal Enfield master front brake assembly, which includes the mirror clamp, black-painted brake lever, hydraulic piston, brake micro-switch and reservoir cost $183. Just the BMW brake lever will set you back $104, the plastic bobble-head reservoir $173 (!), the black plastic reservoir cap $44, the micro-switch $42 and the mirror clamp $42. I could not find a price listed for the actual brake piston assembly (?). Another example: The Royal Enfield front brake hose cost $54, whereas the BMW brake hose is priced at $223. One final example of the disparity in prices (that I did not purchase) is that Royal Enfield sells their entire front brake caliper assembly, including brake pads for $186, where as the BMW caliper for my bike would set me back $515, without brake pads. BMW brake pads would add another $94.
    Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior. 

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  16. #11
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    Installed the new stator, I have a USB charger with voltage displayed, it is useful but I found voltage was not very stable with motorcycles vs cars:
    At idle with only headlight on, it has highest voltage around 14.1 to 14.4v
    With rpm going up, the voltage quickly dropped to 13.7v - 13.8v.

    Watching voltage is not very convenient during riding, the more useful device I installed is:
    CTEK (56-382) Comfort Connect Indicator Eyelet


    https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-382-C...78994047&psc=1

    It is flashing green when voltage is normal, yellow when low, red when it is too low.
    from its instruction:

    • Red: means the battery charge is below 12.4 V. It’s definitely time to charge the battery.
    • Yellow: means the battery charge is between 12.4 and 12.65 V. It’s time to start thinking about charging the battery.
    • Green: means the battery charge is more than 12.65 V. OK! No need for charging.


    I covered the green led, don't want to see anything flashing when normal, and if I see yellow or red led flashing, I know voltage is low.

  17. #12
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    It depends where the USB charger is connected to. I am sure when you connect it directly to the battery for a test, you'll get consistent 14.1-14.2V.
    2017 F700GS - I wish she had a drive shaft. 

  18. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by guenner View Post
    It depends where the USB charger is connected to. I am sure when you connect it directly to the battery for a test, you'll get consistent 14.1-14.2V.
    My USB voltage display is connect to the stock 12v socket, thus it can turn off when key is off.

    I checked directly at battery with voltage meter and it is the same voltage as in the socket at all time.
    it is still displaying, at higher rpm, with lower voltage of 13.7-13.8V.

    My guess is when idling, the voltage regulator is not working yet, as it will starting working when voltage is too high, say above 14.7V.

    At higher rpm as voltage jump up very quickly, to several times of 12V, the regulator is working hard and the voltage is maintained at 13.7V as displayed.

    Another possibility I hope my regulator is fully working right...
    BTW, I have the lithium battery...

  19. #14
    guenner's Avatar
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    Either the voltmeter is doing this (less likely) or you indeed have a problem with the voltage regulator.

    I have a little voltmeter mounted via a switch to the battery. It shows 14.2V all the time!!! Even with heated gloves and heated vest.
    2017 F700GS - I wish she had a drive shaft. 

  20. #15
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    I remove the regulator to test it, somehow I can't measure forward bias with low resistance at all.

    But I found this about low charging voltage: upgrade to MOSFET R/R that raise charging voltage to 14.2V or more.
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/f800g...how-to.781564/

    And there are talks about shindengen regulator that confused me.

    I will either order a new MOSFET regulator or resarch about shindengen...

  21. #16
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    EME stock type regulator:
    Voltage Regulator / Rectifier - BMW F650, F700, F800, G650; 61 31 2 346 550, 61 31 7 707 943 / EnDuraLast
    https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/ED....htm?CartID=10

    RMSTATOR (MOSFET) regulator:
    Mosfet Regulator Rectifier for BMW F 650 / F 700 / F 800 / G 650 / CS GS GT R S ST 1999-2017
    https://rmstator.com/en_ca/mosfet-regulator-rectifier-for-bmw-f-650-f-700-f-800-g-650-cs-gs-gt-r-s-st-1999-2017

    SHINDENGEN SH847 and SH775 SERIES R/R KITS
    https://roadstercycle.com/index.htm

  22. #17
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    There are so many things to lean about motorcycle regulators, the non-MOSFET type in stock one (SCR TYPE?) cannot be tested using diode testing function.

    I think my regulator is probably fine. But I would like to get one that can generate higher voltage than current 13.7V when running.

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  24. #18
    N4HHE's Avatar
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    I don't think varying voltage is an issue so long as the running voltages are within the normal range of 13.2 to 14.2. I doubt our motorcycle R/Rs are smart enough to do this but prevailing automotive practice is let the battery work up and down in the upper charge region.
    2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats 

  25. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlcchen View Post
    There are so many things to lean about motorcycle regulators, the non-MOSFET type in stock one (SCR TYPE?) cannot be tested using diode testing function.

    I think my regulator is probably fine. But I would like to get one that can generate higher voltage than current 13.7V when running.

    RMStator has some R/R units you would like but install would reqiure some custom work ...

    Their tech. team is awesome. If you want to get away from the OEM design I would give them a call / e-mail check this first:

    https://rmstator.com/en_us/high-perf...ors-rectifiers
    Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train  

  26. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrwooden View Post
    RMStator has some R/R units you would like but install would reqiure some custom work ...

    Their tech. team is awesome. If you want to get away from the OEM design I would give them a call / e-mail check this first:

    https://rmstator.com/en_us/high-perf...ors-rectifiers

    Just learned the best for Lithium Battery is getting a compatible regulator which charge at close to maximum optimal 14.1V
    Yes, RMstator is a great company, so I ordered the RMstator Lithium Universal Regulator which requires some modification work.

    https://rmstator.com/en_us/lithium-i...le-pwc-scooter

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