Hi all , not sure if this has been done , but it would be interesting to post vids of DIY stuff (repairs, mods , oil change etc)
Would be a good sticky thread also.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Disclaimer . The videos posted in this thread are made mostly by uncertified technicians and not to be used without further investigation on the accuracy of it's content. People who post here, in all good faith , do not take resposability for any dammage or injuries caused by the content of these videos as they are made for demonstration purposes only. Using the information of the DIY videos is at your own risk. May contain peanuts.... (good one MikeMike)
They only thing I would add is to clean out the caliper with every pad change get some soapy water and a toothbrush and clean those pistons before you push them back in. This will help the gaskets last longer and help prevent a stuck piston.
They only thing I would add is to clean out the caliper with every pad change get some soapy water and a toothbrush and clean those pistons before you push them back in. This will help the gaskets last longer and help prevent a stuck piston.
THe pistons are fully inserted in caliper while working on the pads but a good wash or blow air in the calipers can't hurt. But after 14.000 km and lots of offroad (2 -3 times a week) , there was not much dirt in there, maybe because I hose my bike down every time I come back from the trail and I really hose the discs and caliper ???? Anyways , suprised how clean they were.
The vid of the front brake pad change got our Lorikeet Rex very interested. There is a bird making some noise in the background on your vid and Rex had a good "peep" in response to each chirp. Good to know an Aussie Parrot can talk Canadian!
Good vid - a picture's always worth a thousand words and a movie even more so. From my own experience, a good pin punch set makes the job a little easier and saves the needle nose pliers. But then again, if out on the trail - like you say, use whatever fits.
I pulled the front brake pads, but they weren't much thinner than the replacements, so I put the old pads back. I did not remove the calipers. The pads seemed to slip in properly and I could feel them pushing against the spring. Is removing the calipers just needed when putting on new pads, or should I be worried?
I pulled the front brake pads, but they weren't much thinner than the replacements, so I put the old pads back. I did not remove the calipers. The pads seemed to slip in properly and I could feel them pushing against the spring. Is removing the calipers just needed when putting on new pads, or should I be worried?
No need to be worried. Shouldn't need to remove calipers unless some piston work or serious cleaning required. Bill.
Richard - Current bikes: 2016 BMW R1200RS, 2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2011 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 Classic, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM 390 Duke, 2002 Yamaha FZ1 (FZS1000N) and a 1978 Honda Kick 'N Go Senior.
Thread stuck. Lets try to keep the posts relevant so those searching can easily find what they're looking for.
Great idea, btw!
Hi Brendan...Thanks for the sticky or whoever it was
Season is over for some of us and it's time for maintenance. Hopefully , people will document their work on vid and share with everyone on this thread.
Lets keep those vids comming...
Maddaddy. You need to be careful with this video. You had the ABS ring against the ground.
If you are watching this video!!!! Please do not place the tires so that the ABS ring is on the ground!!! You can cause damage to the ring while changing the tire!
I’m surprised that none suggested blue locktight on the caliper bolts. I always locktight my caliper bolts before I torque. Had a friend’s rear caliper fall off when riding. Messed it up pretty bad, not to mention it can kill you too. Also, highly suggest cleaning the pistons. I use a long skinny brass brush with Brake Clean, and then lube the pin, spring plate, and pistons with High temp grease. Just a light coating, and wipe excess off. Thousands of miles of road grime and brake pad dust really accumulates in the calipers.
Maddaddy. You need to be careful with this video. You had the ABS ring against the ground.
If you are watching this video!!!! Please do not place the tires so that the ABS ring is on the ground!!! You can cause damage to the ring while changing the tire!
Please explain to your audience what your concern is here and your solution.
2 ride the world. (help support my friends, buy a calendar!)
ATGATT, Greg
I'm thinking that 'Jos' is just worried about possible damage to the rotor/abs ring if it's placed directly on the ground
I've seen other tyre installs that place the rotor side; on another tire, milk crate or two pieces of 2 x 4, just as a precaution to keep it safe from any harm.
Not sure what you could do in the bush; dig a hole or use two similar diam logs ... something like that. Maybe those that have done a field repair can comment here ...
Loved the video's! I'm a visual learner and need to see something done before I get the best handle on it
I’m surprised that none suggested blue locktight on the caliper bolts. I always locktight my caliper bolts before I torque. Had a friend’s rear caliper fall off when riding. Messed it up pretty bad, not to mention it can kill you too. Also, highly suggest cleaning the pistons. I use a long skinny brass brush with Brake Clean, and then lube the pin, spring plate, and pistons with High temp grease. Just a light coating, and wipe excess off. Thousands of miles of road grime and brake pad dust really accumulates in the calipers.
Rider, thanks for your personal input. I would just like to mention that I follow the BMW repair manual and they do not mention locktite or grease. They do mention torque spec or if it's a one time torque screw (micro-encapsulated) . I often question using grease on caliper pistons. I know many people do this but I wonder why you would want sticky grease on a piston that is already traveling around a seal just like your front fork tubes. We do not grease that . I know you can use brake cleaner to spray everything nice and clean. You can also remove the pistons and seals but I've "always" (happened once back in my youth lol) lubed the NEW seals and pistons with brake fluid to put them back in . The last thing I want is aply sticky grease ( even a thin coat) so that dirt and sand gets stuck in there. I've taken my bike offroad in possibly the worst conditions out there and came back home , hose the bike down and from the video you can see how clean everything is. No brake dust , no sand , no gunk . We all have to rememeber that DIY vids are made from personal experiences and there is room for improvement as we mostly all are amatures and not mecanics. One should also make a minimum of research to validate how accurate a DIY vid is before they atempt to make the repair . People are welcome and should give additional input on a DIY vid if it can help. My DIY vids were on how to change pads but because I "forgot" to talk about maintenance (not the goal of the vids btw as it's not my expertise) here is a link people might be interested in as extra information http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ca...ean/index.html
Don't wish to argue or take sides but I have to agree with the suggestion regarding the rotor and ABS ring. When you have a rear wheel where the sprocket simply slips off and back on again, common sense dictates that when changing a tire, you remove the sprocket, put it aside and do your work with the rotor and ABS ring off the ground.
Just because Helge doesn't do this on his video doesn't mean he is right. I would be pissed if that was my wheel with the rotor getting scratched up on the gravel when it need not be. Personally, I am a little wary of DIY videos unless I know and trust the source.
Nice video Giodog - thanks for taking the time and making the effort - much appreciated. Just a couple of points you might like to reconsider.........or not, as is your want. After filling with fresh oil you ran the engine for a short time and then rechecked the oil level. The manual actually states that before checking the oil level the engine should be run until the fan comes on, left running for a further minute and then the oil level checked. The method you demonstrated might not be enough for the oil to thin out and circulate properly resulting in a false reading. I don't know having never changed the oil on this bike.........but just a thought. The second point is that you screwed home the dipstick prior to checking and once again the manual states that it should only be inserted to the point that the dipstick top rests on the filler neck housing........or words to that effect.
great DIY video once again....one thing we do when we change the oil is fill the filter with oil as well as lube the seal before we install it back on the bike. We also like the engine to be warm before draining the oil but not hot. After the change, we take to bike for a short ride and recheck the level. I also recheck my oil level after the first decent ride out. I often find myself just a tad but over but not by much. I am paranoid I might short change the oil. Also, with the copper washer...ours is always in great shape. Have not had to change it once. Can't hurt to change it every time but we have not felt the need even though we have back ups in the garage.
Nice video Giodog (yeah what AlanI said ) ... After filling with fresh oil you ran the engine for a short time and then rechecked the oil level. The manual actually states that before checking the oil level the engine should be run until the fan comes on, left running for a further minute and then the oil level checked. ...
The first time I changed my oil I checked it "cold" and then again after a warm up to fan-on + a minute or two.
It seemed like the level climbed by only a small amount - maybe 1/8" or so. Has anyone else seen a much different result?
Echoing other comments - OVER-filling is bad don't do it ... it can hose up the crankcase vent system....
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
The thread is STUCK so videos can be posted and easily found in one place. A question or answer related to a video is more than welcome, but it should be left at that. Rather than posting a reply "thanks for the video...", try clicking the "Thanks" button below the thread. Video requests are also welcome, but may be removed once said video is posted. If you have any questions, you can PM me. Further, as I don't have time to patrol this thread daily, if it gets "out of hand" again, you can PM me and I will take care of it. Thanks, Brendan
The first time I changed my oil I checked it "cold" and then again after a warm up to fan-on + a minute or two.
It seemed like the level climbed by only a small amount - maybe 1/8" or so. Has anyone else seen a much different result?
Agree. Having checked the oil level many times over the 18 months or so of owning this bike I observe no discernible difference to when the bike has been standing for a few days (cold engine) or when the instruction manual is carefully followed (hot engine). In view of this I now check the oil level prior to a ride (cold engine) rather than sitting around for an eternity waiting for the fan to come on, run for a while and then do the business. Besides which, in the time it takes for the fan to come on and run for a while etc my timed garage lights have switched off and I'm left plunged in darkness.
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Originally Posted by johnparjr
After filling with fresh oil you ran the engine for a short time and then rechecked the oil level. The manual actually states that before checking the oil level the engine should be run until the fan comes on, left running for a further minute and then the oil level checked. The method you demonstrated might not be enough for the oil to thin out and circulate properly resulting in a false reading. I don't know having never changed the oil on this bike.........but just a thought. The second point is that you screwed home the dipstick prior to checking and once again the manual states that it should only be inserted to the point that the dipstick top rests on the filler neck housing........or words to that effect.
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