I have searched on here regarding clutches and the problems people have had but I have not seen any alternatives for their replacement.
Are there any other options for replacement clutch plates and baskets for the F800GS other than genuine BMW ones?
Wunderlich have a slipper clutch assembly which is horribly expensive and I think an overkill for a bike of this type unless you have set it up as a super motard ride. I am more interested in a heavier duty plate like the Wunderlich Sintered Metal type which, according to the Australian importer, they do not do for the F800GS.
Nothing was available when I was looking last summer.
I ended up installing the entire BMW "kit" which consists of fibre discs and plates including new (and improved) springs.
It's an easy job if you take your time and do some research.
I prolly could have gotten away with replacing just the inner most fibre disc as it was quite worn but the others were fine.
When the f800 clutch wears, the cable tightens up. You have to keep a close eye on this and make sure you have 4-5 mm of play.
NOT the 1mm that was in the manual.
Why do you feel you need a heavier duty clutch? The stock one is quite good, providing it's adjusted correctly.
Call me old fashioned but if I am replacing something and there is a heavier duty option, I go with that so there is a better chance of not having to do it again for longer.
Are there any clutches out there that act like a centrifugal clutch? They are out there for smaller dirt bikes. I think there is one for the 650 single.
Advise please. Just came back from south america . the clutch started slipping a bit at 56000 kms. I'm trying to replace it myself, dealer wants $480 cdn for the pack $200 labour. I 'd like to get advise how to replace it myself. Since is wet , will I need to replace the oil as well?, just changed.
I m doing the front and rear wheel bearings to. The bike performed amazingly good not even a flat tire. Just had to deal with the typical steering head bearings…..as we all know.Thanks guys.
It's a little tricky but if you have some support and a beer or 2 for confidence, you should be good.
If you have time, check to see if all friction plates are worn or just the inner and outer ones.
Those were all that I needed to replace but I replaced them all as I had them.
If you can install the newer stiffer springs, I would advise you do so.
I don't believe you have to dump the oil but can't remember for sure.
If you do, don't bother changing the filter.
Thank you kelsow…. that is an awesome description about how to replace the clutch. The replacement bmw clutch pack is at my dealer $490, but honest enough they are trying to get me an after market that might be cheaper, don't know yet how much but I will post price and brand. In regard of my solo trip to South america ,well I shipped the bike to santiago chile and rode to the patagonia and then head north. 26000 kms ,4 month… I took it easy . You guys can see the video edited by my son in you tube "mario lemoine motorcycle trip". hope you enjoy it. Adios
Its not perfectly reliable but try cross-refereing your 800GS parts with similar bikes such as F800ST or something else Bandell lists. If the F800ST is listed by Bandell and BMW lists the same clutch parts for ST as GS then there is a 99.9% chance the Bandell parts will work for you. Should be plenty of other bikes using same sized clutch disks.
Have not had need of BMW clutch parts but when I was in there I didn't see anything unusual or exotic that shouldn't be supported by aftermarket. I had the old style clutch cover gasket which produced a flickering oil light at idle.
You don't need to tdc the motor to change the clutch. Really no need for that. It will take the same amount of time to tdc the motor, as to change the whole clutch assy.
Thanks guys!!that is is what I wanted to hear. I'm still waiting for the parts. In the mead time I replaced front and rear wheel bearings, save me $400 in labour.
I will be inspecting my new gasket this weekend, and if it is the new style I'll be installing it shortly...
I have an early build, and "piston slap" is not a sound I want to hear................................. [SQ]
You are most welcome! Thought they'd be useful and have been uploaded to this site for years. Am not aware of a page of all my uploaded photos. Surprisingly they are not in my "gallery".
I will be inspecting my new gasket this weekend, and if it is the new style I'll be installing it shortly...
I have an early build, and "piston slap" is not a sound I want to hear................................. [SQ]
The new gasket has an extra web. A big opening is split into two smaller openings. When I had the bike apart I was in "automatic mode", get the job done, take notes, don't get distracted. In retrospect I should have used Permatex Form-A-Gasket as glue to affix the new gasket to case and cover in the regions it is proven to be weak. The original design gasket would be fine if it was just a tad stronger in that area. I suspect many don't tear like mine did but simply leak, so once again a sealant in that region could only help. Would use a very very thin coat on both sides of the gasket around those passages. Paint thin. I wouldn't use anything like silicon sealer in there because the excess squeezed out might break off and block oil passage in crankshaft.
Permatex Form-A-Gasket is nasty stuff to clean up after on the next disassembly. So it must be good. []
Appears to feed oil to the left side of the crankshaft. My guess is that this oil is then sprayed by the crankshaft on its bearings and the underside of piston. At the very least it lubricates the left side crankshaft bearing but seems to be excessive for that task.
My guess is that its no coincidence this gasket failed in early models and many early models also suffered from "piston slap."
The symptom prompting me to take the cover off was a flickering oil pressure light at idle.
I've posted my pictures before of my torn gasket. You can see the tear in the 1st and 3rd pictures. 1st shows old and new gaskets. Middle picture shows where the tear mates with the cases squarely on the end of the crankshaft:
I wonder why the side cover is not just "flat" block-off in that area, with a Siamese-ed / hourglass hole in the engine casting to route the oil
Why did BMW/Rotax choose to route the oil out the small hole and then back in the big hole (or vice-versa) thru the side cover ...
I'm sure I'm missing something .............
What I'm not missing is the fact that a gasket failure in that area is real bad news! [B)]
If you put sealant around the "problem area" it will make the gasket thicker there to seal with more force. IMO another bolt is needed (but nothing we mere owners can do) as thats the only part of the cover which gets any stress. Apparently that passage is under full oil pressure.
Oh, and the new gasket put an end to my flickering oil light.
With luck I won't be burning out my clutch anytime soon so I guess there's little harm in using a sealant ...
I've had a tube #1 and #2 Form-A-Gasket in my toolbox since ... ummm ... well since a long time ago... [lol]
I'll do as you did and use the #2
I don't have the flickering oil light at this time, but don't stinking WANT one...
I may pull the other side cover off as well to see how crispy my stator is... or maybe it's better not to know ........ [uhoh]
With luck I won't be burning out my clutch anytime soon so I guess there's little harm in using a sealant ...
I've had a tube #1 and #2 Form-A-Gasket in my toolbox since ... ummm ... well since a long time ago... [lol]
I'll do as you did and use the #2
I don't have the flickering oil light at this time, but don't stinking WANT one...
I have a theory that 1) early F800's had piston slap issues. 2) Early F800's had this gasket problem. 3) #1 and #2 are related. The problem passage feeds oil to the left end of the crankshaft. I don't know but expect the crankshaft has drilled passages to distribute this oil. Possibly to spray oil on the underside of the piston and cylinder walls? If the quantity of oil was not sufficient then wouldn't one expect accelerated wear?
14 times eh??? What the hell are you doing in there? [lol]
Ok ... maybe I'll skip the permatex ... [lol]
Had to stop dis-assembly to go to Dr. appt, it was probably just as well ...
the lower bolt holding the footpeg bracket is being a real PITA and had I continued I'd probably have stripped it ....
it appears to have been locktited at the factory ...
I have it broke loose, but still no joy ...
Liquid wrench applied ... I'll finish it off in the AM!
N4:
I think that's a good theory ... likely correct.
The only illustration of the oiling diagram for the bike I have ever seen does not have enough detail (for me at least) to really understand what's going on ...
Damn ... I hope Reaver does not see this .... he'll give me a big ration of sh*t...
My bike is an early VIN 1st year production bike, and it HAS the new style gasket.
I'm the original owner of the bike, and the side cover has never been off (that I know of) and I've never had issues with the clutch ... so I don't know WTF is going on...
N4: the picture you showed of the broken gasket is from an F650GS/F00GS twin right?
Not an earlier F800S/ST ???
I have some corrosion in the upper/forward "blank" cavity/pocket of the casting where apparently water seeped past the gasket or something, so I'm glad I took it apart as I can address that issue and I'm going to go ahead and use the new gasket I bought, but it's just like my 5-year old original... [:I]
One other note ... behind the clutch assembly is a plastic gear that drives one of the oil pumps.
I'm guessing it's plastic for less noise and/or less cost. My gear looks fine, but if I keep the bike long enough to wear out the clutch, I'll probably replace that plastic gear just for good measure while I'm in the vicinity...
My bike is an early VIN 1st year production bike, and it HAS the new style gasket.
I'm the original owner of the bike, and the side cover has never been off (that I know of) and I've never had issues with the clutch ... so I don't know WTF is going on...
N4: I have the first model year of the F650GS twin (2009 model year, bought in Sept 2008...)
From this episode I conclude that most if not all of the F650GS / F800GS twins came from the new and improved gasket ... [lol]
Think I bought my revised gasket in late 2009. Don't know for sure when production got revised gaskets but thought it was late 2007 early 2008, but can't put my fingers on the source to verify.
Look for two fiction plates with 13mm tabs, and the rest 14mm. Use 13mm tabs for the first and last of the friction plates.
The Italian maker Newfren has a well priced all plate kit, # F1317AC (eBay) I'm considering. Anyone riding with it?
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