I have searched on here regarding clutches and the problems people have had but I have not seen any alternatives for their replacement.
Are there any other options for replacement clutch plates and baskets for the F800GS other than genuine BMW ones?
Wunderlich have a slipper clutch assembly which is horribly expensive and I think an overkill for a bike of this type unless you have set it up as a super motard ride. I am more interested in a heavier duty plate like the Wunderlich Sintered Metal type which, according to the Australian importer, they do not do for the F800GS.
Nothing was available when I was looking last summer.
I ended up installing the entire BMW "kit" which consists of fibre discs and plates including new (and improved) springs.
It's an easy job if you take your time and do some research.
I prolly could have gotten away with replacing just the inner most fibre disc as it was quite worn but the others were fine.
When the f800 clutch wears, the cable tightens up. You have to keep a close eye on this and make sure you have 4-5 mm of play.
NOT the 1mm that was in the manual.
Why do you feel you need a heavier duty clutch? The stock one is quite good, providing it's adjusted correctly.
Nothing was available when I was looking last summer.
I ended up installing the entire BMW "kit" which consists of fibre discs and plates including new (and improved) springs.
It's an easy job if you take your time and do some research.
I prolly could have gotten away with replacing just the inner most fibre disc as it was quite worn but the others were fine.
When the f800 clutch wears, the cable tightens up. You have to keep a close eye on this and make sure you have 4-5 mm of play.
NOT the 1mm that was in the manual.
Why do you feel you need a heavier duty clutch? The stock one is quite good, providing it's adjusted correctly.
Call me old fashioned but if I am replacing something and there is a heavier duty option, I go with that so there is a better chance of not having to do it again for longer.
Are there any clutches out there that act like a centrifugal clutch? They are out there for smaller dirt bikes. I think there is one for the 650 single.
Advise please. Just came back from south america . the clutch started slipping a bit at 56000 kms. I'm trying to replace it myself, dealer wants $480 cdn for the pack $200 labour. I 'd like to get advise how to replace it myself. Since is wet , will I need to replace the oil as well?, just changed.
I m doing the front and rear wheel bearings to. The bike performed amazingly good not even a flat tire. Just had to deal with the typical steering head bearings…..as we all know.Thanks guys.
It's a little tricky but if you have some support and a beer or 2 for confidence, you should be good.
If you have time, check to see if all friction plates are worn or just the inner and outer ones.
Those were all that I needed to replace but I replaced them all as I had them.
If you can install the newer stiffer springs, I would advise you do so.
I don't believe you have to dump the oil but can't remember for sure.
If you do, don't bother changing the filter.
Are there any clutches out there that act like a centrifugal clutch? They are out there for smaller dirt bikes. I think there is one for the 650 single.
I saw a F650GS twin with a recluse clutch. They are now avaiable for the f6 and f8. The user was very happy with it.
The rekluse is NOT available for the 650/800GS yet. It will be fall/winter 2013 before you will see it for sale.
Erling
I was at the Oregon BMW rally in Johnday Or. and Happy Trail was there with there stuff, and one of the bikes they had, had a rekluse clutch on it. The staff was happy with the unit. Maybe they are a testing station.
I was at the Oregon BMW rally in Johnday Or. and Happy Trail was there with there stuff, and one of the bikes they had, had a rekluse clutch on it. The staff was happy with the unit. Maybe they are a testing station.
They might be. There are three beta testers.... or so it was a couple of months back. I am one of them.
It is a great product, and should be available fal/winter 2013, as we put more miles on them. Rekluse want to make sure that the 8GS app, has been tested thoroughly before releasing it. It replaces 3 fibrous discs, and two metal discs in the basket, so if the clutch is worn, it will not replace all the 9 discs. Stay tuned.
Thank you kelsow…. that is an awesome description about how to replace the clutch. The replacement bmw clutch pack is at my dealer $490, but honest enough they are trying to get me an after market that might be cheaper, don't know yet how much but I will post price and brand. In regard of my solo trip to South america ,well I shipped the bike to santiago chile and rode to the patagonia and then head north. 26000 kms ,4 month… I took it easy . You guys can see the video edited by my son in you tube "mario lemoine motorcycle trip". hope you enjoy it. Adios
You don't need to tdc the motor to change the clutch. Really no need for that. It will take the same amount of time to tdc the motor, as to change the whole clutch assy.
You don't need to tdc the motor to change the clutch. Really no need for that. It will take the same amount of time to tdc the motor, as to change the whole clutch assy.
Erling
Thanks guys!!that is is what I wanted to hear. I'm still waiting for the parts. In the mead time I replaced front and rear wheel bearings, save me $400 in labour.
Clutch pack . cheapest place and as usuall… sierra bmw $390. I was told that bandell makes an after market one but they don't list one for the 800 gs
Its not perfectly reliable but try cross-refereing your 800GS parts with similar bikes such as F800ST or something else Bandell lists. If the F800ST is listed by Bandell and BMW lists the same clutch parts for ST as GS then there is a 99.9% chance the Bandell parts will work for you. Should be plenty of other bikes using same sized clutch disks.
Have not had need of BMW clutch parts but when I was in there I didn't see anything unusual or exotic that shouldn't be supported by aftermarket. I had the old style clutch cover gasket which produced a flickering oil light at idle.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
... I had the old style clutch cover gasket which produced a flickering oil light at idle.
I remember when the gasket was updated, and I have what I think is one of the versions of the gasket on hand ...
how did the old gasket cause issues ... any details?
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
I remember when the gasket was updated, and I have what I think is one of the versions of the gasket on hand ...
how did the old gasket cause issues ... any details?
First picture is the failed section of original gasket. Second picture is new design gasket beside old. The opening is where pressurized oil feeds the crankshaft leading me to suspect this gasket has something to do with failure to lubricate piston skirts resulting in piston slap of many early engines.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
I will be inspecting my new gasket this weekend, and if it is the new style I'll be installing it shortly...
I have an early build, and "piston slap" is not a sound I want to hear.................................
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
You are most welcome! Thought they'd be useful and have been uploaded to this site for years. Am not aware of a page of all my uploaded photos. Surprisingly they are not in my "gallery".
I will be inspecting my new gasket this weekend, and if it is the new style I'll be installing it shortly...
I have an early build, and "piston slap" is not a sound I want to hear.................................
The new gasket has an extra web. A big opening is split into two smaller openings. When I had the bike apart I was in "automatic mode", get the job done, take notes, don't get distracted. In retrospect I should have used Permatex Form-A-Gasket as glue to affix the new gasket to case and cover in the regions it is proven to be weak. The original design gasket would be fine if it was just a tad stronger in that area. I suspect many don't tear like mine did but simply leak, so once again a sealant in that region could only help. Would use a very very thin coat on both sides of the gasket around those passages. Paint thin. I wouldn't use anything like silicon sealer in there because the excess squeezed out might break off and block oil passage in crankshaft.
Permatex Form-A-Gasket is nasty stuff to clean up after on the next disassembly. So it must be good.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
I was planning to change my slightly-seeping left side engine/clutch cover gasket and was planning to use the ThreeBond 1211 I already have on hand.
Assuming I apply sparingly as you describe (paint thin), do you think this would be alright to use?
Haven't used Threebond 1211 myself. Had to look it up and was disappointed Threebond.com only provided a picture of the tube and no more information.
Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2 is what I have used on problem gaskets for decades but didn't think to when servicing my F800S. Would probably only use it on the problem passages where my original gasket tore. Permatex says they've been making Form-A-Gasket since 1932.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
Anybody know why that "problem passage" is a feature of the side cover in the first place?
What's it do
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
Anybody know why that "problem passage" is a feature of the side cover in the first place?
What's it do
Appears to feed oil to the left side of the crankshaft. My guess is that this oil is then sprayed by the crankshaft on its bearings and the underside of piston. At the very least it lubricates the left side crankshaft bearing but seems to be excessive for that task.
My guess is that its no coincidence this gasket failed in early models and many early models also suffered from "piston slap."
The symptom prompting me to take the cover off was a flickering oil pressure light at idle.
I've posted my pictures before of my torn gasket. You can see the tear in the 1st and 3rd pictures. 1st shows old and new gaskets. Middle picture shows where the tear mates with the cases squarely on the end of the crankshaft:
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
I wonder why the side cover is not just "flat" block-off in that area, with a Siamese-ed / hourglass hole in the engine casting to route the oil
Why did BMW/Rotax choose to route the oil out the small hole and then back in the big hole (or vice-versa) thru the side cover ...
I'm sure I'm missing something .............
What I'm not missing is the fact that a gasket failure in that area is real bad news!
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
Ok... I am just NOW getting around to pulling off my clutch side cover hopefully later today....
I have the new gasket on hand but am undecided on just installing it "dry" or if I should use some sealer around the "problem area" ...
It "almost" seems like if Icheck the side cover to insure it is not warped & use the diagram to retorque the bolts in the correct order
that should be sufficient and I should not need to use a sealant?
any new thoughts on this topic?
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
If you put sealant around the "problem area" it will make the gasket thicker there to seal with more force. IMO another bolt is needed (but nothing we mere owners can do) as thats the only part of the cover which gets any stress. Apparently that passage is under full oil pressure.
Oh, and the new gasket put an end to my flickering oil light.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
With luck I won't be burning out my clutch anytime soon so I guess there's little harm in using a sealant ...
I've had a tube #1 and #2 Form-A-Gasket in my toolbox since ... ummm ... well since a long time ago...
I'll do as you did and use the #2
I don't have the flickering oil light at this time, but don't stinking WANT one...
I may pull the other side cover off as well to see how crispy my stator is... or maybe it's better not to know ........
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
14 times eh??? What the hell are you doing in there?
Ok ... maybe I'll skip the permatex ...
Had to stop dis-assembly to go to Dr. appt, it was probably just as well ...
the lower bolt holding the footpeg bracket is being a real PITA and had I continued I'd probably have stripped it ....
it appears to have been locktited at the factory ...
I have it broke loose, but still no joy ...
Liquid wrench applied ... I'll finish it off in the AM!
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
14 times eh??? What the hell are you doing in there?
Ok ... maybe I'll skip the permatex ...
Had to stop dis-assembly to go to Dr. appt, it was probably just as well ...
the lower bolt holding the footpeg bracket is being a real PITA and had I continued I'd probably have stripped it ....
it appears to have been locktited at the factory ...
I have it broke loose, but still no joy ...
Liquid wrench applied ... I'll finish it off in the AM!
With luck I won't be burning out my clutch anytime soon so I guess there's little harm in using a sealant ...
I've had a tube #1 and #2 Form-A-Gasket in my toolbox since ... ummm ... well since a long time ago...
I'll do as you did and use the #2
I don't have the flickering oil light at this time, but don't stinking WANT one...
I have a theory that 1) early F800's had piston slap issues. 2) Early F800's had this gasket problem. 3) #1 and #2 are related. The problem passage feeds oil to the left end of the crankshaft. I don't know but expect the crankshaft has drilled passages to distribute this oil. Possibly to spray oil on the underside of the piston and cylinder walls? If the quantity of oil was not sufficient then wouldn't one expect accelerated wear?
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
N4:
I think that's a good theory ... likely correct.
The only illustration of the oiling diagram for the bike I have ever seen does not have enough detail (for me at least) to really understand what's going on ...
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
Damn ... I hope Reaver does not see this .... he'll give me a big ration of sh*t...
My bike is an early VIN 1st year production bike, and it HAS the new style gasket.
I'm the original owner of the bike, and the side cover has never been off (that I know of) and I've never had issues with the clutch ... so I don't know WTF is going on...
N4: the picture you showed of the broken gasket is from an F650GS/F00GS twin right?
Not an earlier F800S/ST ???
I have some corrosion in the upper/forward "blank" cavity/pocket of the casting where apparently water seeped past the gasket or something, so I'm glad I took it apart as I can address that issue and I'm going to go ahead and use the new gasket I bought, but it's just like my 5-year old original...
One other note ... behind the clutch assembly is a plastic gear that drives one of the oil pumps.
I'm guessing it's plastic for less noise and/or less cost. My gear looks fine, but if I keep the bike long enough to wear out the clutch, I'll probably replace that plastic gear just for good measure while I'm in the vicinity...
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
My bike is an early VIN 1st year production bike, and it HAS the new style gasket.
I'm the original owner of the bike, and the side cover has never been off (that I know of) and I've never had issues with the clutch ... so I don't know WTF is going on...
It can't have the new gasket and not have had the cover removed. Not if its a 2006/2007. Am not sure when the new gasket saw production.
N4: the picture you showed of the broken gasket is from an F650GS/F00GS twin right?
Not an earlier F800S/ST ???
2007 F800S is all I have to take pictures of.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
N4: I have the first model year of the F650GS twin (2009 model year, bought in Sept 2008...)
From this episode I conclude that most if not all of the F650GS / F800GS twins came from the new and improved gasket ...
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
N4: I have the first model year of the F650GS twin (2009 model year, bought in Sept 2008...)
From this episode I conclude that most if not all of the F650GS / F800GS twins came from the new and improved gasket ...
Think I bought my revised gasket in late 2009. Don't know for sure when production got revised gaskets but thought it was late 2007 early 2008, but can't put my fingers on the source to verify.
2016 Yamaha FJR1300A; 2016 Beta 430RS; 2007 BMW F800S; 2009 Husaberg FE450; 2016 Subaru Outback; 2018 F150; 2013 Tesla Model S 85; 1983 Porsche 928S; 9 cats
The engagement tangs on the F800 are not all the same ....
If you have access to the Haynes or BMW manuals you can see the details.... but in a "set" from BMW they are not all the same disc....
I'm sorry but I have not taken mine apart and can't tell you why they are not all the same.
Blue 2009 F650GS - H-B crash bars, TT luggage rack, Pelican top case, BMW Vario Panniers & bash plate, 20mm handlebar risers, LED voltmeter, Sargent seat, MudSling, a few other trinkets ... I may be just about at the end of the farkle train
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Originally Posted by Kelsow
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